TALES OF THE MOSCHINOSHIRE
Images that bring the story to life; a mood board in emotional sequence; snapshots of details and stolen moments from which emerges the elegance of Ann Bofoey Taylor, a horseback riding and skiing enthusiast – these are the starting points for the Moschino Fall/Winter 2013-14.
Added to this is the desire for reinterpretation, expressing the most classic, essentially Moschino pieces of clothing with the same declaration of heartfelt love for the British world.
The search begins, from tartan and its colors, for fabrics with the same visual impact and identity. This is a conscious choice, a Scottish-mania expressed in the fabrics, in the gold-embroidered badges, in the Scotland Yard caps, in the red roses and in the embossed Ms that brighten the most colorful tartans.
Men’s-style suits revisited, but always very precise and worn with classic-cut white shirts, uniforms that somewhat recall Japanese schoolgirls and a nod to the style of the countryside with pieces from the equestrian world. The final part of the show “falls back in line” with the absolutely irreplaceable black and white outfits.
Changes and play with fabric, made-up stories and revisited ones, with the only certainty whispered, smiling: “plus ça change, plus c’est la même chose” [“The more things changes, the more they remain the same”]
Imagine home with sofas, rugs, pillows, and walls painted as if in a harem. There are paintings and books all over. Amidst the voices, noises, and laughter, someone is reading or painting, while another sews, embroiders, draws, takes photographs, writes, or rummages through left-over yarn.
In the country, they bring back to life old abandoned buildings. They build furniture and objects and decorate fabrics, ceramic objects and bowls. They dig in the soil, water plants, trim trees, pick fruit, and take the dogs out for a walk.
Lea observes, smiles, and records the scene. She presented them to me in… Un altro tempo [the “another time” exhibit] …
They have returned – Vanessa, Virginia, Edith, Violet, Vita, Hilda, Dora, Helen, Jessica, and Dorothy – and it’s as if they have never left.
They are always near yet far, continuously searching for another place, another island where they can stop awhile. They are friends, these insolent women, who have caused scandal and triggered fierce disagreements.
Bold and unconventional, polemical and provocative, and blessed with irony and sarcasm, they seek to define what is beautiful and true beyond convention, in complete freedom and with irreverence.
They are eccentric and cosmopolitan. They are not simply extravagant because “eccentricity is not just extravagance: it is primarily nobility of spirit and manner.”
I think of their clothes in… Another time …
They shun fads and prefer wearing clothes that express their spirit and faithfully reflect their complex personality. They blend materials, shapes, and prints, luxurious jacquard wallpaper motifs in crimson and ecru devoré velvet and rough masculine tweed, windowpane check wool, pinstripes, and mélange Prince of Wales check.
Gray and brown fabrics borrowed from Saville Row tailor shops are brightened with unexpected splashes of color such as dazzling yellow, deep fuchsia, intense white, and bright red.
Fil coupé jacquard, silk twill, cavalry with Lurex threads, and thick Chanel and silk organza fabric, heavy cotton satin with trailing decoupé flowers in vibrant shades or black and white stripes are featured.
Fragments are extrapolated from their work. Small details are reworked and recreated on prints, organza, and traditional British plaid combined with Chantilly lace. Fabrics that are seemingly very different are, due to an absurd alchemy, combined and blended to tell a story about city life.
They are then rearranged and used with country elements to narrate tales about the country. Vintage menswear jackets in tweed and Prince of Wales checks are brought back to life in a fresher, new version, assembled together and embellished with rustic embroidery.
Army blankets that once covered old sofas or humble beds are turned into oversized greatcoats with an exuberant mixture of inserts made of luxurious fabrics alternating with velvet and nubby tweed. Rose covered fabric inserts, floral elements, macramé lace, and striking traditional embroidery.
They enjoy playfully separating, rearranging and combining roses, beading, and lace. They create chaos, a hodgepodge of vibrant fragments, and yet they seek symmetry through these endless contrasts.
They recreate new figures through contrasts of dark and light, kaleidoscopic rainbows of SWAROVSKI ELEMENT crystals, luminous effects, and a combination of merging elements which are used to express themselves and their fascinating dichotomy and oxymorons that exist within and finally emerge.
That’s how I see them dressed, surrounded by art, literature, travel, the city, country, trees, gardening, past and present, each in her own world.
AND THE WINNER IS …
We sincerely thank everyone who participated.
Stay tuned for more surprises
Andrea Incontri© Copyright 2013
A well educated elegance, more than formal and almost compelled, graces this Andrea Incontri collection. Discretion, a stern mood yet modern and sensual is on top of the list for this eccentric lady apparently ordinary, yet extraordinary.
Incontri designs the beauty of well mannered and measured geastures, the importance of dressing well: lost traditions to help define contemporary femininity.
This project was born from fabrics, from the matter of clothes, to build up a clear image with precise lines and shapes. A long lean silhouette, essential small proportions, new tailored separates all make for a brand new concept of elegance.
Frottage inspired original prints create hints of sculptures and ancient coins on different textures, taking decoration to a whole new level.
Wool crépe, structured fabrics, tricot inspired embroideries on sheer organza: fabrics get a 3D quality.
The colour palette is deep: light blue, thick yellow, sweet pink, dark red, ivory, black and chestnut brown. Romantic little dresses with small collars, silk jacquard pieces where roses bloom, candid crisp shirts and warm soft long wintery coats.
A whole collection of accessories completes the look. Polished leather handbags with contrasting colour pockets, bidimentional sleek bags, evening clutches with dark crystals beaming gently.
Tall boots get things straight: the mood is well defined by sensual heels on feminine shoes that don’t let decoration take over the essence of shape and function. Evening mules, bon ton mary-jean shoes and the signature stilettoes come in solid colours: ink black, deep red, hot chocholate, sweet beige.
Woman and nature, so alike: tender, deep, mysterious, provoking, full of beauty and joy, power and discovery, simplicity, history, sophistication.
This is the season to feel the universe. The universe of color: talco, navy, khaki, olive. All the greens of a meadow or forest. And golds on a beach. Rich autumnal reds, saturated. Then cool purple and blue winter skies.
The universe of texture: morning satin, evening sheen, cashmere, mohair, snake leather. Gentle wools, woven looser, closer. All over beads shining, or fringes swishing. Our iconic wire shimmering.
The universe of pattern: lines as slender as grass. Then shapes as bold as trees, A’s and T’s, boxy, cropped, mid and maxi, wrapped, then flowing.
The body is a woman’s universe. Explore the warm contrasts of dress and all the accents. Fine shoes, boots to the ankle, maybe fringed, strapped. Bi-color gloves, long, chic and intimate. Elegant bags as soft structures in the hand.
Feel nature this season. Feel natural.