DAKS celebrates the elegance of the English evening for Autumn/Winter 2016/17. The classic dinner jacket and its variants are redesigned with an ironic and irreverent twist and produced in fabrics that have always been synonymous with English elegance.
Black velvet, evening satin and moiré give full expression to the dandy spirit of the collection, combined with georgette and chiffon that feature on shirts that are enhanced by a plastron either in ton sur ton or in contrasting materials or colors.
Knitwear is exquisite – in the best DAKS tradition: cashmere, alpaca and mohair serve as a precious canvas on which is painted a unique design, hand-fashioned by an Italian artist. There are touches of an abstract template that makes direct reference to the world of art.
As well as on knitwear this also features on overcoats – these too are hand-decorated – shirts, elegant silk dinner jackets and suede bags finished with detailing in plongé leather. The colour palette features bronze, rust – in various shades of brightness – and a hint of darker ochre which all combine with black.
Accessories have been created with a view to underlining, with gentle irony, the elegance of the collection: woollen hats with fur pom-poms, grosgrain ribbons and bows applied on the lapels of the jacket in the guise of flowers and elegant brooches that recreate through the light of their crystals the colours of the iconic DAKS house check.
The House Check that this very year celebrates its 40th birthday: DAKS revisits the check with the creation of the Anniversary Check, in a woollen mode and created expressly in England for this anniversary by a long-standing weaver, as well as in a variation in the more classic colour scheme.
The collection comes to life in a show set in an exclusive location and with a theatrical staging in which the models, with their dreamy ‘Brit’ look, are transformed into refined dandies.
Urban bike messengers served as inspiration for creative director Andreas Melbostad to design Diesel Black Gold Fall/Winter 2016 collection. A renegade, rebellious spirit informs the attitude of the lineup, which finds an ideal backdrop in an industrial, urban setting.
References to bike messengers’ functional and practical outfits echo in the collection, where cycling pants and the new “double trousers,” consisting of shorts stitched with narrow-cut styles, are topped with pieces cut in generous volumes for bold silhouettes.
Everything is infused with a utilitarian feel adding a more elegant, metropolitan attitude to the collection. Shirts show outwear-inspired details, such as zippers, straps and mock necks. These are layered under the hybrid outwear pieces.
The season’s iconic capes incorporate some of Diesel Black Gold’s most signature staples, including bombers, field jackets and parkas. Leather and inside-out shearling biker jackets come also cut in oversized shapes. Elongated nylon vests are worn over jackets, which reveal ribbed knits or jersey sweatshirts with nylon quilted inserts.
Bike messengers’ equipment also inspires the accessories range, featuring leather pouches to wrap around the arm and padded cross body bags. Leather combat boots with zippers enhance the sharp, strong attitude of the collection.
Missoni Men’s A/W 2016 collection symbolically narrates the tale of its nomadic man’s hypnotic excursion once he strays from the overland trail to trek the remote, mountainous lands of Ladakh. Imaginative anticipation, exploration and physical endurance are the foundation of a journey that erases all ties to place, time and convention while strengthening the desire for adventure amongst the imposing natural elements and spirited native culture. Soft tailoring, noble fibers, intense colors and ornate embroideries evoke these sentiments in a collection that is as much about sport as it is luxury.
Chunky cashmere and cashmere/silk blends, lightweight shetland wools and yak, alpaca and mohair fibers have been masterfully woven and knitted into stylish, utilitarian garments that can weather any winter chill while still allowing for relaxed movement. Shades of camel, amethyst and cinnabar with accents of turmeric and orange agate; sapphire and mineral brown with raids of turquoise and jade; and silvery gray, black and pewter with coral red and azurite blue handsomely encapsulate the aesthetic essence of traditional Ladakhi fabrics juxtaposed with the rugged outcrops and verdant valleys of the natural landscape.
Refinement and sport are key to this collection of pieces that impeccably transition from mountain encampments to urban navigation. Highlights include: two-piece, degradè sartorial suits created on Missoni’s heritage looms in Sumirago, loom-knit blazers, overcoats and gusseted hiking trousers that have been wefted with cashmere and loom-knit down-jackets that have been lined with an over-dyed technical cotton; fully-fashioned, quilted wool garments that have been padded with nylon filament; vests that have been hand-embroidered with ethnic coins; chunky-cable hand-knit cardigans seen with either a degradè effect or with an intarsia of a Ladakhi ibex; striped, macro-space-dye, cashmere pullovers and shaw-collar cardigans; a “short” parka made with space-dyed chain tape and bonded with a technical cotton and various knits embellished with fringe detailing.
This season’s collaborative projects are of a befitting nature. Diemme, Italian footwear manufacturer, has customized its classic Roccia Vet hiking boot, in leather and suede, using Missoni’s macro-space-dye knits for its cushion collar and laces. Porter, the Japanese luggage-and-accessories specialist, has used a specifically- created Missoni loom-knit on four of its most iconic bags: the 2-way garment bag, backpack, rucksack and tote. Converse’s 1970 High Chuck Taylor draws inspiration from 60’s hiking boots and features a Missoni chevron knit, suede inserts and a blooming effect for the rubber toe cap and sole.