Fri, February 28 2020 » Fashion Blog
“Who is the man and who is the woman of today? The reason I wanted to show my men’s and women’s collections together today is because men and women are equally powerful. It doesn’t have anything to do with gender, it’s that their power comes from a different type of confidence, both from their sensual exuberance and their minds.”
- Donatella Versace -
Versace has always been synonymous with sensuality and self-confidence, freedom of expression and the sense of belonging: for Fall-Winter 2020, Donatella Versace continues this cultural conversation by presenting for the first time the women’s and men’s collections on the same runway in a celebration of equality and inclusivity.
Never afraid to express a strong point of view, the collection is for those who do not dress to please everybody. A new concept of sensuality, almost restrained, sketched and never shouted, is epitomized in the slashes that characterize both women’s dresses and men’s tailored suits.
Jewelry-style rings are engraved with Versace’s iconic Greek Key pattern and are used to hold the slashes together. Structured or bonded fabrics are doubled to give a firm shape to dresses, skirts and jackets because there’s power and confidence even in the silhouettes. Arching domed skirts, nipped-in waists and super-strength shoulders highlight the “centres of power” of the Versace tribe: flamboyant and unapologetic in its expression.
In menswear, the clothes channel strength and portray bold hypermasculinity. The shoulders are broad, and the waist is cinched. Sports references inform the collection and appear on head-to-toe tracksuits and netting-backed nylon separates. Here, the slashes add character by revealing sports-inspired netting beneath for a modern rework of a universally recognised brand code. A new sneaker, the Trigreca grounds the looks with utilitarian edge.
Prints focus on the V Barrocco that is distorted, deconstructed, enlarged and shrunk. It’s splashed across men’s tailoring, statement separates and women’s dresses and it becomes a reflection on today’s reality. It is also echoed in the tracklist, in which sounds are deformed, dissonant and not-armonic. The same V commands attention as a sculpture at the show space, a constant reminder of the brand’s unmistakable iconography.
The finale is a sequence of eveningwear. Graphic lines, accented shoulders and the Versace’s infamous metal-mesh drape over the body and is used to create short sculptural dresses. An instarsia finish composed of metal mesh and crystal mesh is used to weave the fabrics together for a show-stopping, red-carpet-worthy look.
Fri, February 28 2020 » Fashion Blog
The narrative and emotional power of geometry is underestimated. As any other rigorous discipline, instead, geometry is full of feelings and nuances, as Edwin A. Abbott demonstrated a long ago in Flatland – A Romance of many dimensions.
This very geometric, unabashedly graphic Missoni collection is a story of feminine strength, empowerment and self awareness, told in straight lines, bold clean volumes, skin flashing throughout and the womanly taste for self decoration – using jewelry to add further layers to the story.
The freewheeling Missoni spirit is still there, but it marches to a beat of horizontal, diagonal and vertical stripes that shift, move, swing, wrap on and around the body, leaving no way to froth and frivolity – up to a point. The glittering of metal adds sparkle to a dense palette of earthy and burnt tones lit with dashes of red and turquoise.
Outerwear is bold and protective; blouson-cardigans have kimono closures and cropped tailored jackets in boxy shapes are worn with big trousers tucked into boots. Underneath, dresses and leggings cling to the body or reveal it, suggesting body-consciousness as just another facet of feminine power.
Even the New Bags with narrow scarves as straps have an assertive geometric presence. After dark, patterns melt and everything gets soft.
Menswear is just as bold in shape, sensual, and equally glittery. The neatness of the design lets geometry explode in a frenzy of patchwork, swarming everywhere and in every size, from micro to macro.
A Missoni signature through and through, patchwork is Missoni-ism elevated to an nth: a way to reaffirm optimism in these turbulent times. Letting geometry take the lead in the most playful and graphic of ways, patchwork allows for endless kaleidoscopic variations.
As such, it is luxuriously narrative, which finally demonstrates the theorem: the emotional power of geometry is potent. A warm thank you to Cameranebbia for their contribution to the setting of the show.
Thu, February 27 2020 » Fashion Blog
An explosion of vitality and movement, the Fall 2020 collection celebrates a sublime evolution. Rooted in a new dimension. Immersed in a dream. A poetic sensuality pervades every garment. The security of the vulnerability. Pure self-expression.
Rich wax palettes enhance the depth of the black colors;scarlet, lollipop, kiwi and chocolate. Elongated silhouettes wrap and adhere to the body. Refined comfort and warmth.
The delicate nuances of socks and bandages recall the curves and sinuosities of the body. Joy. Grace. Form. The braided continues to emerge, revolutionized by modernity.
The tension between tradition and innovation. Delicate family heirlooms glisten behind amplified fringes and perverse layers. A sense of loss and discovery. Hypnotic ornaments blend and move beyond intimacy.
Staff. Comforting. Sensitive. A fascinating journey through everyday life. A new elegance suitable for any eventuality.
Wed, February 26 2020 » Fashion Blog
‘Moving back to London recently – a city I first discovered as a young student – gave me a real sense of nostalgia. It was the place where I learnt to be myself and a city where I gained the confidence to be the man that I am today. I have this strong feeling of pride when I think about the early days of my career, when I was an emerging designer still learning my craft and taking inspiration wherever I could find it.
The memory of this special and formative time in my life is what has influenced this collection – from the places I visited and the people that surrounded me to the music that inspired me. It is this side of my personal journey that I wanted to blend with the codes and language that I have started to define here at Burberry.’
Riccardo Tisci, Burberry Chief Creative Officer
Named Memories, Riccardo Tisci’s Autumn/Winter 2020 collection for Burberry takes inspiration from reflections of his early years as a young designer, whilst continuing to solidify key codes for the fashion house.
The collection captures Riccardo’s memories of the diverse places he visited, discovering who he was as a designer whilst developing his craft. From Italy where he was raised, to London where he studied, to India where he moved after graduating. The collection combines signature Burberry pieces – from trench coats, tailoring and duffle coats – with modern silhouettes, prints and fabrications.
The trench coat softened with off-the-shoulder silhouettes, exaggerated ties, curly shearling and faux fur. A car coat, blouson and blazer spliced with voluminous capes. Long collarless coats in double wool-cashmere and leather and equestrian-inspired quilted jackets.
Panelled tailoring, jodhpurs, fluted skirts and reconstructed shirt dresses in collaged check. Layered cricket stripes and prints, and cinched rugby-style dresses. Gathered details on dresses and blouses. Evening silhouettes in fluid chain mail, plaid and jersey – contoured with crystal fringing and ring-pierced cut outs.
Outerwear is explored through textural contrasts and updated check prints. The car coat combined with a field jacket. The duffle coat panelled in plaid wool and felted cashmere. Classic trench coats with attached hoodies, puffer jackets and double-lapel details.
English-fit jackets with reconstructed cuffs and lapels, styled with slim tailored trousers, silk-twill shirts and sweaters – all patchworked in plaid. Low-slung tapered trousers in tailored wool and plonge lambskin, reworked rugby shirts, and silk-chiffon tunic silhouettes.
Introducing the Olympia bag collection, featuring a shoulder bag in three sizes and a crossbody bag. Fabrications include Monogram jacquard, star-appliquéd suede and smooth structured leather in rich saturated tones.
A supersized Pocket Bag, Society holdall and duffle bag in plaid. A metal paillette clutch for evening.
The Arthur sneaker is updated with a Cuban heel, a new hybrid style for men and women. Sculptural point-toe pumps, mules and boots with wraparound tie details. Men’s Derby shoes are reworked with a square toe and Cuban heel in polished leather and check cotton.
Transparent disc earrings with logoed studs, and earrings and rings with sculptural silhouettes.
Burberry beige and grey with black, dark green, russet and metallic accents.
Exploration of checks from Burberry House check and tartan to Prince of Wales plaid and muted shades of beige and red. The animal kingdom evolves through spotted monkey prints and elephant motifs.
Thu, February 20 2020 » Fashion Blog
Tue, February 18 2020 » Fashion Blog
Tue, February 18 2020 » Fashion Blog
Streetwear is a label freely adopted and rejected by Virgil Abloh. Through the contemporary breakdown of dress codes, the popular idea of streetwear calls for a redefifinition of the term itself. Today, streetwear characterises the clothes we actually wear and the way we wear them.
For the Louis Vuitton Fall-Winter 2020 collection, men’s artistic director Virgil Abloh studies the evolving anthropology of the suit and the reprogramming of traditional dress codes.
Tailoring and the tapered silhouette – the fifirm symbols of convention, trade and success – depart their corporate comfort zone: twisted and turned, the dress codes of an old world are neutralised, re-appropriated and embraced for a progressive joie de vivre. Don’t let your day job defifine you.
Employing his evolving premise of boyhood at Louis Vuitton, Virgil Abloh investigates the lifelong relationship formed by adolescent and young men with shirting and suiting. It is material and fifigurative exercise in freedom, presented within the familiar constrictions of tailoring.
Surrealism is the instinctive act of making the ordinary extraordinary. The abstraction of the familiar expands our routine horizons and makes us see the world through unfazed eyes. Virgil Abloh applies the mechanics of the surreal to rewind the clock on our collective age-inflflicted comprehension.
Gazing at the world through the optics of a child – of an adolescent or a young man – is tantamount to fifirst impressions, to the purity of mind and the refreshing optimism of naivety. The turn of a decade heralds an appetite for fresh motivations.
Through a childlike perspective, the phenomena and traditions we take for granted are invigorated and elevated. Hovering over our heads like the ceiling of an age-old chapel or an everlasting fifilm set, the clouds in the sky appear dreamlike and infifinite: Heaven on Earth.
Broken clocks, engineered to spin backwards, are still right twice a day. The suit – a man’s mundane corporate uniform – is de- and recoded into a symbol of craft and creativity. As part of the set in the Jardin des Tuileries, the traditional tools of the artisan are magnifified into lionised sculptures; the icons of tradition honoured and changed with equal enjoyment.
Mon, February 17 2020 » Fashion Blog
Past, present, couture. For the Dior men’s winter 2020-2021 collection, artistic director Kim Jones draws on the Dior archives and iconography to celebrate the house’s timeless elegance. A journey to the heart of haute couture and a tribute to Judy Blame, a pivotal figure and a symbol of creativity that always looks to the future.
The silhouettes explore values of excellence and authenticity, evoking fashion not just as a finished product but as a creative process. Clothes, shoes and accessories sport engineered zips that enhance their construction, highlighting details and cut as an ode to christian Dior’s love of architecture. The Dior oblique canvas is revisited in beaded embroideries, while the Dior logo is pierced with a safety pin — a nod to Judy Blame’s diy-inspired style.
House codes, like reminiscences of haute couture, are embodied in the moiré effects of silk, embroideries, and the arabesque motifs and paisley patterns that make Dior’s heritage so rich. Opera gloves complete each look and buttons covered in fabric — like those on the iconic bar jacket — appear alongside a panorama of memories:
Shades of gray and blue, plays on volume, and pleats and draping that reference flou and tailoring techniques. Accessories evoke the mid-20th century, a turning point in fashion history. Shoes have a classic allure, reflecting the exceptional leather craftsmanship that represents another aspect of Dior’s heritage. The saddle is revisited in new, ever more fluid forms as the soft saddle; bags recall graphic briefcases and camera bags.
Crafted in polished calfskin, they come in a discreet palette of black, camel-vicuña and navy blue, and feature the signature Dior oblique motif enhanced with beading or in a handmade tapestry version. Drawing inspiration from the toile de jouy motif that decorated christian Dior’s first boutique — called
“colifichets” — the now-signature motif has been joined by the “toile de judy”, designed in collaboration with the trust Judy Blame foundation and based on the artist’s revolutionary work.
Jewelry designed by Yoon Ahn features reinterpretations of Judy Blame pieces, through metallic elements engraved and embossed with the Dior logo, and adorned with cannage or lily of the valley motifs. Berets by house milliner Stephen Jones pay tribute to parisian culture and the pioneering buffalo movement of the 1980s. Rich in meaning and creative modernity, this dialogue between the legacies of Dior and Judy Blame affirms, more than ever, the timeless power of savoir-faire.
Mon, February 3 2020 » Fashion Blog
Mon, February 3 2020 » Fashion Blog