Subtle disruption. Gentle distortion. De ning a man through what he wears and how he wears it. Gentleman. Or rather: gentle, man.
Charm as a distinctive sign. Spontaneity that ignores the rules, without struggle.
Observing classicality through the lens of visceral expression, profound essence is captured and altered, as in a painting by Francis Bacon. With a glitch.
Casentino fabric, checkered wools, leather, patent leather: the alphabet. Ratifying outerwear, the small pullover, the shirt with plastrons: the vocabulary. The slim bowtie, the technical sneakers, the cap: the punctuation. Free and personal compositions.
Decisive gestures misalign familiar shapes. Unbalanced volumes. Details out of place. Acrylic and graceless colors. Jamie Reid’s slogans and punk lettering within Couture intarsia. The absolute synthesis maintains truth and authenticity, without reverences.
Gentle individuality that sprouts from the not thinking exceedingly to what one wears. Instinctively.
Mon, January 30 2017 » Fashion Blog
Texture and silhouette are the key elements of Giorgio Armani’s research: an authorial, innovative reflection, led by the principle that rigidity and obsolete protocols should be swept away, gracefully. It’s through the use of exquisitely crafted materials and finishes that the masculine figure is here redesigned.
This season, Giorgio Armani is working on classics with eclecticism and a spirit of synthesis, evolving codes to define an idea of elegance tuned-in to the present, but rich with heritage.
The body, with its individual, unique beauty, is enhanced by clothes that outline a vigorous figure. The ample sleeve-scarves define the image by wrapping the arms and crossing over the chest. The face is illuminated by recurrent white shirts and framed by small, neat hats.
Textures are natural, warm and luxurious; voluptuous shearlings add an unexpected, vibrant note. The palette offers a combination of masculine colours and typical Armani hues, highlighted by touches of orange, dusty light blue, burgundy and green, alternated with classic blue.
Sun, January 29 2017 » Fashion Blog
Optimism. In pills. Keywords. The FENDI VOCABULARY.
YES – TRY – LISTEN – LOVE BLISS – FANTASTIC – TRUST – HOPE THINK – FENDI
Clothing as concise as slogans: essential, performing, REAL. With a FENDI twist. LOGO
Blouson, cape-coat, gilet, suit, zip-up jumper, tracksuit, cycling jersey.
FAST Teddy bear slides, sock-runners, backpack. Headband.
The COMFORT of quilting. Lines that underline.
COLOR as a statement. Grey, camel, military green. Bold highlights of pink, yellow, green, orange.
Croco, padded leather, nylon, neoprene, mink, shearling, felt. Leopard print. Technical, natural, effective.
PRACTICAL – PRAGMATIC – PROGRESSIVE – REAL – RELIABLE – REASSURING
The everyday, in the FENDI way.
Sun, January 29 2017 » Fashion Blog
Sun, January 29 2017 » Fashion Blog
Daks © Copyright 2017
The DAKS Autumn Winter 2017 collection paints the picture of a London that breathes ambition and talent. It’s a story of success that leaves the doors to the financial districts half-open for passers-by to get a glimpse into the lives of distinguished English bankers and dandy businessmen. DAKS are telling the story of a place where past and future meet, with a new take on classic British tailoring, a renowned feature of the brand.
This season, DAKS have collaborated with Fox Brothers to develop a ‘DAKS Club Flannel’ in an exclusive pinstripe design, synonymous with sartorial city style in Britain. This cloth is the focal point for this season’s collection and chalk stripes for suiting are a main focus. Another key textile this season is the houndstooth made from real Shetland wool, a sustainable fibre renowned for its long-standing quality. Key products include the three-piece suit and the wool coat; iconic DAKS pieces for a professional Londoner.
Prince of Wales and houndstooth, herringbone and pinstripes are shown in tones of grey melange, creating a wintery harmony that warms up the atmosphere. DAKS are reshaping the idea of classic tailoring by creating a range of exclusive new designs of jackets, trousers and overcoats in the most lavish of materials in collaboration with some of the most renowned suppliers in England.
Knitwear is created in 100% Shetland wool, dyed in deep tones of navy blue, black and classic greys. These colours also create the main palette for the DAKS A/W 2017 collection, displaying double-breasted jackets and slightly cropped trousers which show off socks in classic British patterns and prints.
Created in luxurious black brushed calf-skin and with subtle fabric-features, footwear, created in collaboration with Trickers, adds an extra feel of sophistication to the collection. Silver runs throughout, like a red thread of exclusive opulence, a symbol of light in the constant haze and rain of London. This translates into a range of silver detailed accessories and bags, creating subtle bursts of light through the collection.
Bags are created in an exquisite combination of black and blue, in addition to a special herringbone embossed design that recalls decorative textiles. The overall atmosphere is elegant and takes you on a journey through a modern, yet so recognisable London.
Fri, January 27 2017 » Fashion Blog
Overwhelming in their prominence, full of secrets and unknown inhabitants, harsh to those who wish to conquer them, mountains have long stood for the seduction of the sublime. Reaching towards the heavens, man’s aspiration towards the transcendental focusses on these tips of our earth as a locus of spirituality. Taking inspiration from both the mystical power and natural beauty of these peaks, the images and processes used in this collection evolved from Kean Etro’s fascination with mountains as the border between the realms of the temporal and fantastical. This autumn, Kean Etro asks you to join him on an ascent to the summit, with a menswear collection inspired by the myths and legends of the world’s mountains.
Materials this season are the product of free experimentation with a focus on rich tactile sensation. Lushly soft velvets have been subject to heavy printing, imbuing their garments with, in the case of a chevron printed hooded jacket, an exoskeleton-like quality. A similar process allows a oral coat and trouser ensemble a rough touch that almost undermines the classic luxury of the textile. Impossibly soft wool jumpers are dyed with Shibori-style Japanese tie-dye, resulting in patterns and lines that resemble Barnett Newman paintings. Sumptuous, long wool coats are printed with foliage motifs, which are created using an innovative earth-based colouring derived from clay – fully realising the passionate, imperfect naturalness of this collection.
As a counterweight to the more organic processes, nylon outerwear – pullovers, water-resistant parkas and trousers – have been photo printed with a mélange of images that are key to the narrative of the season. Cheeky bears, wise wolves and regal bucks – all mountain dwellers – make appearances on the backs, pockets and inner linings of the garments. They are trusted friends and familiar characters that have been present in the work of Kean Etro for many years. Feather motifs, in lurex lamé, swirl and ourish across sheer pullovers and tailored blazers, the result of a loose weaving technique purposefully designed to age with grace as they’re worn and moved in.
The silhouettes reach, in equal measure, towards technical innovation and traditional tailoring. Double breasted jackets and long, kimono-style coats are fastened with buckles, and shoulders are covered in ripstop waterproof fabric, a material typically found in parachutes. While loose, patch- worked nylon trousers are adorned with zippers or elastic drawstrings at the ankles and knees that allow volumes to be manipulated at will. Velvet dévoré has been fabricated with nylon to create a suiting that is exible and soft, yet impeccably tailored. Short padded vests, in the classic Etro paisley, receive the dévoré treatment as well. Highlander-inspired kilts in plaid and houndstooth were designed as a nod to the collection’s mountain-inspired theme.
Bright backpacks and high-tech hiking boots round out the collection, all a mix of fabrics found throughout the rest of the pieces – like matelassé quilting techniques on a shoe’s upper. Fabric typically used for neckties, woven tighter than normal to aid in water resistance, is used for the panels of a backpack, which is complete with small chanting bells to aid one’s ascent to the peak. Patchwork sleeping bags are worn as capes and are warm enough to fall asleep in under the stars on a mountain top. Fantastic paisley printed skis and snowboards are offered as the climax of the presentation. “The only kind a Sherpa or a monk would use,” assures Kean Etro.
Wed, January 25 2017 » Fashion Blog
Freedom. Protest. Association. Inclusion. Not mere slogans, but quite the contrary they are thoughts and practices underpinning a cultural attitude. Anything but meaningless proclamations, they are concepts and messages substantiating real life. As a reaction to all that we do not like, fashion turns into a way of taking a personal stand. The N° 21 fall/winter 2017-18 men’s collection comes from a reflection on the cultural moment of the times and ideally is an impetus for change and a proposal for discussion.
«What set me in motion were the moods permeating photos of demonstrations and socio-political organization meetings from the 1970s. More than any style of dress or rallying cry on banners, what struck me were the intense feelings captured in the pictures, that spirit of freedom which marked both the thinking and the very existence of men and women back then – a spirit of freedom they also expressed through the clothes they had on. That’s why in this collection, more than rehash fashion tenets, I gave sway to a free association of the thoughts, words, actions and lifestyles inherent to those mood and feelings,» says creative director Alessandro Dell’Acqua.
Bypassing any iconographic reference to past trends, the collection emerges as the elaboration of an attitude. It starts by analyzing the idea of protest in terms of a capacity for reaction that results in the liberty to express a sense of taste free from the restrictions of rules. That’s the essence behind the creation of sheepskin & nylon anoraks, check peajackets with army nylon detailing, light blue crushed poplin shirts, wool & neoprene pants and coats, camel coats with camo nylon accents, pressed serge shirts and bomber jackets, striped mohair cardigans, Norwegian style sweaters with ‘split in two’ patterns, oversize puffers with gold bands along the inside hem, a shearling and a long-hair fur complete with detachable nylon windbreaker, jackets in the latest nappa leather & neoprene mix, ‘heavy’ lightweight shoes with tread soles and stud trim.
As for the sequined fleece hood, it’s the season’s sole accessory – to sport freely with shirts and jackets, sweats and coats, adding a brilliant touch to the style conversation. So the fall/winter 2017-18 N° 21 collection finds expression through clothes that become signs of change, messages which while describing the personality of the individual wearing them underscore his freedom of choice too.
Wed, January 25 2017 » Fashion Blog
Hotfooting out of the city to hike the Canadian winter mountains, the Dsquared2 men and women of Fall Winter 2017 are taking a new style attitude to the slopes. Glamour meets grunge “GLUNGE” in a big and bold lineup constructed with the essence of Dsquared2. For the debut co-ed show, men’s and women’s looks are designed coequal. Opulent, feminine and rugged details appear in lookalike pieces.
“We created a look for him and her, and her and him. She wears bouquets of flowers on her dresses, he wears them printed on his shirts and jackets; his long knit over a shirt which is also her look. For our first co-ed collection guys and women are style equals, glamorous mountaineers,” Dean and Dan Caten.
Oversized outerwear is constructed from a mash-up of the brand’s signatures. A down coat is also a hybrid denim and canvas jacket. Shearlings are printed with flowers or cut into black-and-white vests. Calf hair dappled coats move with long fringes. Furs reveal intricate intarsias. Tough pieces have unexpected embellishments: check skirts and shirts are covered with a patina of filmy sequins, a chiodo jacket and cargo pants are embroidered with beaded flowers, soft kid leather pants feature tiny rows of ruffles, resembling undergarments.
Co-ed chunky knits and trapeze-shaped shirts in micro check, some melding knit and fade-out plaid are layered into looks. Floor-sweeping dresses in tulle or field of flowers print are detailed with ruffles and lace trim. A Morman influence is seen in a lineup of high neck, black velvet flock printed long dresses and coats. A new jean fit modelled on a ski pant, the Ski Biker, is cropped with a slight flare and tab detail.
A co-branding collaboration with K-Way® lends the iconic waterproof jacket new style and proportions. Voluminous and reversible, with Dsquared2 attitude courtesy of a magnified logo and zips, and textured, high-shine fabrics including an encrusting of crystals.
Accessories for men and women are identical, silk foulards knotted at the neck for both girls and the guys are topped with a beaded flower neck cuff to emphasize the three-dimensionality of the design. Cross-country ski boots feature steel details on the sole’s toe, trapper boots are fitted with lug soles and decorative jewels on their hiking laces and high knitted cap-hats glimmer with inbuilt crystal tiaras. A vintage style purse clasp bag is crafted in long Mongolia mink with a detachable canvas shoulder strap.
Tue, January 24 2017 » Fashion Blog
With a view to intimacy and an escape from the outside world, Damir Doma invokes notions of primitive craft for Autumn Winter 2017-18. A dialogue of masculine and feminine tropes remains integral to his vision, manifesting in a call and repeat of warm texture and earthly tones. The intrinsic ‘fil rouge’ of punk and pagan devices forms a raw patchwork of poetic deshabillée.
The gestural emphasis of knotting and tying garments punctuates the season’s design message, as asymmetries distort the traditional notions of a coat, a dress, a shirt. Their soft volumes envelop the shoulders and fall in cocooning layers of distressed finery from bleach-spattered satin to blasted buffalo hide, melange striped wool jacquard, silvered corduroy, and a brushed two-tone herringbone. The colour palette rises from dark navy, antique black, graphite, burnt umber and cool ivory to a monastic shade of carnelian orange, its fire echoed in resin pendants dotted with the semi-precious stone.
Defining the silhouette’s disrupted line, paperbag trousers and split trench skirts hug the waist in bunched shapes; boxy shirt jackets or tunics wrap and unfold with extended collars, and detached lapels are scrolled with velvet buttonhole embroideries. Cinched slip dresses and tops come slashed or knotted with panels of satin and panne velvet, worn over laddered cable knits and two-tone sweaters stitched with velvet thread.
On foot, flat thigh-high boots flash in jewel-coloured stretch velvet and sturdy brogues are airbrushed with negative tonal stripes. The new mykita dd ‘fedor’ sunglasses are crafted in flat, thick-rimmed steel with floating optical lenses and a rose gold finish.
Tue, January 24 2017 » Fashion Blog
Composed Dynamism. Order materializes from disorder. Sculptural contours delineate geometric figures. Intersecting lines contrast the material with the immaterial. Tonal glows and slumbering darkness surrender to the spirituous play of light. Missoni’s A/W 2017 Menswear Collection draws inspiration from the concrete barriers, metallic enclosures, oxidized mazes and jutting appendages of the subterranean and industrial networks that form the skeletal structures on which our indifferent urban surrounds are erected.
This is the backdrop upon which this season’s Missoni Man comes to life. Japan is the setting. Cashmere, mohair camel, yak, alpaca, and silk blend together to form an organic patchwork of sensorial perceptions and experiences that have been disassembled and reassembled. Discreetly striking colors distinguish themselves from the somberness of the urban tract: sango-iro coral bursts against petrol blue, navy and cobalt; chrysanthemum yellow radiates against black peony, maple red and camel; bright moss green explodes against nori green, lead grey and black.
Layered silhouettes of varying texture, shape and volume create subtle movements and vibrancy in direct opposition to the rigidity of confining infrastructure. Relaxed, loose and worn with a confident and playful nonchalance, this season’s put-together styles are eclectic and personal; reaffirming and evolving a language, a narrative and an identity: the manifestation of Missoni’s effortlessly cool nonconformist. Tradition, imagination and technique combine to great effect in Missoni’s exclusive loom-knit fabrics and knitwear.
Texture and color work in unison to form conceptual, undulating oil-slick patterns in iridescent dégradés for tailored garments and chunky- silk intarsia knits flecked with mohair. Metallic embroideries are inspired by Japanese Shibori designs. Oversized duffel coats with twisted-rope fastenings, sartorial jackets, sarouel and pajama pants are shown in abstract macro-and micro-tartan and houndstooth checks which hint at the blurred motifs of Japanese Kasuri textiles.
Patchworks of irregular compositions and soft geometries are pieced together in the traditional manner of kimono making and are used for oversized car coats, macro- check tracksuits, thick intarsia hand-knits and over-dyed suede cardigans that resemble traditional Japanese workwear with graphic, multicolored zigzag detailing in knit. Rounding out this contemporary collection are: cashmere pashmina blousons, raglan over-shirts, needlecord tracksuits with macro space-dye inserts, cardigans, crewnecks and loose-fitting fatigue pants.
A collaboration with the Paris-based milliner Larose has resulted in beautifully designed bucket hats, berets and caps finished in a selection of Missoni’s loom-knit fabrics used throughout the collection, adding a unique and distinctive flourish to each look.
Mon, January 23 2017 » Fashion Blog