A delightful quirkiness, a fresh spontaneity: the funky defiance of conventions that comes from dressing according to instinct, bypassing the thought process. Glam! Slam! This season Alessandro Dell’Acqua plays with the coolest of codes, tweaks and subverts the rules by inviting a tomboy to the ball.
Taken by surprise, she promptly puts her ingenuity to work and invents a wardrobe all of her own. Pure fusion mode, so elevating the collage style to precise and brilliant art form. Joints and intersections forgo discretion, make a perfectly strong statement, as the true source of energy in today’s fashion universe is dissonant friction.
Multiple interplays of day/evening, mannish/feminine, severe/opulent moods find inspiration in the here & now, not in any glossy otherworld. It’s real life with a touch of magic. Embroidery gives the thick army flair pullover an amazing sheen. Feather inlays and sequin damier motifs add a special dash to the sides of the sleek simple dress and the smart cut-off trousers.
The shetland sweater makes a wicked match with the sumptuous skirt. The lavish ultrawarm wrap blooms dazzlingly with roses. All-time favorites from basic polo to boyish topcoat get down to essentials. By contrast, materials and working techniques are rich and precious, the sharp silhouette constantly offset by some startling element.
As in the array of dual-impact items: coats creating oppositions between elegantly intact front and fabulously decorative back, otherwise presenting unique mixes of fabric and fur; the knit sweater shading imaginatively toward a sheer swingy skirt; the polo taking new shape in embroidered velvet or simply morphing into a dress.
What sets the tone is an idea of freedom and naturalness, an unabashed sense of instinct with a deliciously personal twist. Voluptuous materials – wools, velvets, mohairs – come in a palette of classic black, gray, camel, khaki hues with iridescent red and turquoise sequin brights.
Accessories have fun with the upbeat/offbeat spirit: Chelsea boots with cabochon rich elastics, pointy toe ballerinas in dapple effect or high gloss leather, thick heel pumps with clip decors.
Thu, April 24 2014 » Fashion Blog » No Comments
Food, fashion, irony, joy, glamour and couture!
Jeremy Scott designs his first collection for Moschino and declares: THIS IS THE NEW FLAVOUR!
The brand’s creative director brings on stage a playful collection inspired by fast-food, cartoons and the fun characters who enliven packaging of chocolate bars, candies, pop-corn and cereal boxes with a special appearance by SpongeBob.
The iconic ingredients of Moschino are mixed together to create an exciting new recipe, which respects the brand’s heritage yet looks to the future with energy and enthusiasm.
Tailored suits, quilted leather jackets, trench coats and furs are featured in pop colors of red and yellow with unexpected slogans like “DRINK MOSCHINO”, “FUR REAL” and “CASH COW”.
Make room for Moschino’s logomania, where the “belt goes wild”. He celebrates and transforms the famous lettering into a sexy decoration on jackets, bustiers, boots and accessories.
The evening is Pop-Couture! Snack packaging inspired ball gowns in organza and silk duchesse, embellished with made to measure prints with a nod to nutritional facts, prices and bar codes featured on snack packages.
With this group Jeremy Scott creates a series of new comic characters: Mr. Funtastik, Cheesy Bits, Froggy Loops, Dandy Candy who adorn these package inspired evening gowns.
Wed, April 16 2014 » Fashion Blog » No Comments
Iceberg © Copyright 2014
In the late 60’s, Parisian High Society escapes to the mountains for an acid moonlight party getaway. This is the mood of the FW 2014 Iceberg women collection. Dream of an Alpine resort merging winter sports and art spirit; a post modern town in the cloudy mountains, built in powerful bright colors and concrete materials.
Using the playful, sporty and arty DNA of the brand in a new way, the collection is also inspired by plastic toys and colorful designs of the space age, in addition to the elegant yet a bit sloppy attitude mandatory to the young Parisian generation. The big squared seal ring makes the link throughout the show, a fil rouge unifying and identifying each of them as part of this new fellowship.
It starts with the « rive gauche bourgeoise ». Kraft color masculine neoprene costumes over white sweaters with bright mink collars that remind vintage ski outfits. The rubber belt detail, between the sporty technical accessory and plastic toy. And on their feet, the girls are wearing sharp metallic shoes.
Then, transparent plastic rectangles move forward as a frenetic trip, growing into the Agam girls. Multicolor embellishments, lacquered and embroidered, arise on the pleated chiffon skirts inspired by the work of artist Yaacov Agam. Mixed with those playful panels, deep colored raw edges felts and sporty knitwear focus the silhouette into the alpine winter feeling. The satellite t-shirt is an allusion to the dream of a journey to a new world.
Making a turn into more « protective » garments, these Alpine ravers are wearing long military parkas and black leather pants. Padded, quilted, the silhouette is assuredly day wear and urban. As the music gets louder, colors turn technoid. Hyper pleated fabrics and knits are scratched by the « electro-graffiti » print. A powerful souvenir of Alexis’s adolescence.
The final destination is near. Acid trance into the molecular mineral spheres. Silver laminated jumpers and light pink knits are mixed with deconstructed chiffon drapings. Embellished with blue felt or glass tube straps, and graphic patches illustrating new kinds of molecules and fantasy landscapes that depict possible foundations of a world in another dimension.
Tue, April 15 2014 » Fashion Blog » No Comments
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Dsquared² © Copyright 2014
Once a glamorous star, she finds herself in an institution with her wardrobe of magnificent things. Despite her dizzying mental state she is always dressed to the hilt. Perturbed and wonderful, Dsquared2 takes inspiration from this striking woman for the autumn winter 2014 collection.
Dramatic femininity is underscored with iconic 60s shapes of swingy jackets, short shift dresses, capes and cropped pants. Rich textures are found in mink inserts, python skins, feathers, paillettes and jewels, all symbols of her dazzling former life.
Decadent eveningwear has couture constructions: a narrow long sheath has a cape back, an emerald floor-length cape is covered with long black feathers, and a glistening matte gold and cream gown’s fluted bust is trimmed with a crystal bow at the waist.
Daywear is infused with lashings of drama and opulence. Evoking the structured lines of a classic nurse’s uniform, bonded white leather and stretch inserts are second-skin like mini dresses worn with double-breasted capes.
A felted wool tunic is inlaid with avocado hued mink. Jacquard silk pants with a shimmering lurex pattern are paired with a white fur top. Dense three-dimensional pailettes and jewels encrust mini shift dresses and matching jackets. Sumptuous furs are paired with nude silk lingerie and pajamas.
Detailed construction in a meshed silk nude mini corseted dress recalls an orthopedic garment. Emerald and teal glossy python skins are cut into long-sleeved short tunic and a cropped jacket with matching python pumps, hats and bags.
Brace like mesh and leather ankle straps accent sandals, revealing the same stiletto spiked heel as softly rounded-toe pumps. Another pump style with a squared toe, doctor bags and rectangle clutches are embellished with mink, plumage or jewels. A mini clutch with handles is encased in scaffolding-like metal. Felted round high hats with narrow brims are trimmed in fur.
Bracelets and neck cuffs are also styled like braces; other arm cuffs are loaded with jewels and connected to finger rings shimmering with stones. Oversized Jackie O style sunglasses come with clip-on jewelry over the brow, or sides and temples.
Their sparkle gives off a kaleidoscope of fragmented lights, the flash before her release back into everyday life, where the episode could have easily been a dream.
Tue, April 8 2014 » Fashion Blog » No Comments
Andrea Incontri © Copyright 2014
The role of functionality resets and reinvents itself with pure aesthetics. Rules made to broken. Sharp, observant, and pensive, the Andrea Incontri woman is conquered by these elements of strength that collide also within her wardrobe. While asphalt roads, intersections and junctions serve as contemporary monuments.
This is the inspiration of the forms, materials and the geometry of the embroideries and prints. It is a new form of vanity that is born from a clear self awareness- like the urban charm of a flower that overcomes the hardness of concrete.
Rigorous lines and clean silhouettes for coats as well as cropped earth colored jackets in the finest of wools. Where pockets are no longer just containers but various decorative elements, just as in a three-dimensional trompe-l’oeil. The severity of it all is however, broken up by purely decoratively placed fur in vertical panels.
The mini jackets with back details of pleated loden, are meant to be worn with mock pleated skirts or oversized pants with fur cuffs. Steadfast fabrics like the grisaille of earth toned and moss colored masculine wools. Unexpected plastification techniques with geometric bands resemble familiar horizontal road signs.
Strong contrasting colors in knits, bring a new functionality to the ribbing of men’s socks, that become into the sleeves of a super feminine pull-over. Black asphalt is the theme of velvets, where prominent zips cut through overtly feminine dresses with linear applications taken from the deconstruction of a pocket. Fur flowers emerge like roadside dandelions.
The Circuit Bag is the handbag of the season. Carried on the shoulder, it has bordered edges in reptile and python leathers, a metal closure, and is designed in contrasting tones of duchesse satin.
Colors such as brick red, chemical green, and taillight orange. Two-tone sandals and stilettos with straps and trims revolve like roads that accompany the feet to another seductive dimension.
Fri, April 4 2014 » Fashion Blog » No Comments
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