THE VERSACE TRIBUTE COLLECTION
“This collection is a Tribute to the life and works of Gianni.
We pay homage to not only his artistic genius but to who he was as a man, and above all, as my brother.
Gianni was an exceptional person for how he celebrated each day as though it were extraordinary and for how he always approached life with a smile on his lips.
Each year Gianni lived, he lived to its fullest: throughout his career, he created collections that to this day are considered a cultural point of reference and inspiration to many.
It would be impossible to commemorate Gianni’s entire world in a single collection, therefore, I have decided to honor his legacy with his beloved prints and dazzling metal mesh.
This collection is for you, Gianni.”
THE GLAMOUROUS TOMBOY
ICON: Tina Chow. US model and icon Tina Chow is the muse for the Philosophy di Lorenzo Serafini Spring Summer 2018 collection. Chow’s mysterious and captivating personality was magnified by her androgynous yet sensual style; a hypnotic icon of the 80′s party scene.
SILHOUETTE: New Wave silhouette. Defined yet linear, complete with soft shoulders.
- Light dresses cinched at the waist by lacquered obi belts.
- Voluminous, military inspired cotton poplin jumpsuits
- Wide leg pants made from the finest Japanese canvas are paired with blouses.
- For the finale we see little dresses in laminated, sparkling plissé silk.
- White, light cotton tabliers are styled with the new Superga X Philosophy by Lorenzo Serafini sneakers.
THE ACCESSORY: Neckerchiefs are trimmed with marinière stripes or embroidered with crystals.
COLORS: The colors are bold and intense. Indigo blue and white alternate with the use of more vibrant colors such as red and sage green. For the finale, lamé pieces in delicate hues create a sensual light.
PRINTS: Archive scarf prints from the ‘20s and romantic micro-florals of an exotic spirit.
FABRICS: Crisp poplin, lightweight muslin in solids or prints and cotton reminiscent of denim. Laminated plissé silk for the finale.
For the upcoming Spring Summer 2018 collection Alberta Ferretti looks back at her DNA of lightness with a new sensuality, creating a collection defined by ease and sophistication with unexpected moments.
“This season, I began looking at how I perceive my fashion by adopting a dynamic point of view. I embraced the past and present in one single shot, almost as if I was viewing it through the lens of a moving camera. During that process, I wanted to give my signature sense of lightness an added depth of sensuality, the surprise of the unexpected and the simplicity of a bright, luminescent attitude. This is how this quasi- sentimental collection that describes my current state of mine began. A moment of creative reflection, through which my aim was to pursue the renewal of my authenticity” declares Alberta Ferretti.
From this renewed perception of the Alberta Ferretti aesthetic, a new lightness is born. It becomes more affectionate towards the female body, originating from essential yet never minimal lines and also from lean silhouettes, often interrupted to create unexpected volumes, as seen on jersey gowns adorned with capes and low backs. A linearity that loves to be broken by geometric embroideries that imitate sequins or alternatively, an assortment of sequins used to create a dégradé effect to embellish and emphasise the length of the gowns. There’s a lightness that translates to pure sensuality through the bathing suits where black is replicated in graphic patterns defined by belts. Sheer chiffon gowns where the embroidery loses its decorative function and becomes the highlight of a luminous path that crosses over into pastel hue. Liquid lurex dresses that enhance fluidity.
A new Alberta Ferretti woman, born from a “new gaze”, a reflective, sensual and affectionate look on the need for modernity, with the urban attitude in which a gown is styled with a suede jacket or a lightweight silk and nylon parka. The flat leather sandals are easily replaced with lurex pumps. The collection features black, nude, beige and pastels; Alberta Ferretti’s palette of sensuality.
The brand, while simple on the surface, unravels itself as an extremely complex set of contrasts and nuances. However at the core is a simple concept: soul. Jil Sander is about soul, sensitivity, humanity. It is about quality. It is about essential design and an approach to garments and products that is pure and refined. It is about finding the delicate balance between perfection and imperfection. Most importantly it is an equal part of a life that embraces art, music, film, architecture, spirituality, and consciousness.
Lucie and Luke Meier are honored to present their first runway show for Jil Sander, the brand that has informed their approach to design since their interest began. This is their initial gesture of continuing this approach in their own way.
The Spring/Summer 2018 collection, comprised of women’s and men’s looks, demonstrates sensitivity and purity in combination with modern construction and innovation. This contrast is fundamental to what the Meiers want to maintain within their work at the brand, celebrating nature and the human touch while embracing progressive ingenuity. This is precisely why the venue was selected: a work of human creation that frames the magnificence of nature.
A pure palette of whites with navy, camel, and black recalls the house codes, while bright colors gives strength to voluminous knits. The white poplin shirt is revisited in several iterations; new proposals of tailoring construction are demonstrated against light, airy drapes; traditional and functional smock and elastic distortion connect masculine functionality with feminine volumes; handwork is essential to the preciousness of the macramé and embroidered detailing.
The end goal achieved is one that creates an emotion within the clothes. They are created to live in and become a part of real life.
The Tree of Life
Two halves of a whole unite to make way for Etro’s 2018 50th year as a fashion house and family company. Conceived in tandem by siblings Veronica and Kean Etro, together they present their first collection of both Women’s and Men’s for Spring/Summer 2018. Guided by the same impulses as their father and Etro founder, Gerolamo, whose early travels to India remain the source material for Etro’s colourful prints, this season’s offering is an interpretation of Indian folklore through Etro’s haute bohemian lens. The iconic Paisley print is believed to be a graphic rendering of the seed that springs forth the Tree of Life. From brilliant whites to kaleidoscopic rainbow, the collection unfolds like light through a prism.
The collection begins with white, a symbol of purity. Long cotton voile dresses as soft as silk have been printed with white pigment for an ethereal shadow of the iconic Etro pattern. Delicate lace, silk crêpe and weightless cotton are embellished with metallic thread and pearls on a series of dresses that explore shades of cream, ivory and taupe. Colours blossom slowly: hints of acid yellow and mustard are introduced in spare, delicate patterns on loosely rendered silk pyjama sets for both men and women. Etro’s classic flowing gowns in weightless, floral patterned cotton have been printed with lurex to shimmer with movement. As the collection gains momentum pigments become saturated: coral, salmon and tangerine precede deep violet, maroon and emerald green. A sumptuous swirl of visual psychedelia is found in ecstatically embellished blazers and smoking jackets for men in velvet and linen.
Silhouettes are loose and free but with elements of strong tailoring. Dresses and shirts for women are wrapped around the waist with wide sashes in silk Mogador and locked with paisley-jewel brooches. Menswear suiting – found in brightly coloured silk and cotton blazers and double-breasted jackets – cuts close to the body, and linen trousers are left casually crinkled. Lightweight cable-knit sweaters for men, inspired by cricket whites, and prim, lace trimmed cardigans for women are designed to be worn snugly. For both men and women, pleated cotton jodhpurs are high waisted and worn belted, while silk and light wool wide-legged trousers are cut loose and free. Mock collars in rich embroideries and patterns slip under sombre sweaters and tailored jackets. Floral and paisley-printed waistcoats in silk or velvet are worn on top of fitted polo shirts and long silk tunics.
A flowing cotton kaftan is reimagined backless, with a patchwork of patterns and long bell sleeves. A draping, one-shouldered foulard dress is voluminously folded and wrapped in the center with a thick sash. The bodice of a fluttering above the knee cotton dress is rendered three-dimensional with heavy patchwork embroidery, braided trim and a thickly quilted elephant motif adorning the back, a treatment also found on short jackets and vests.
Accessories are informal yet vibrant. For women, jewel-toned, crystal-embellished sandals in satin and metallic leather fold origami-like around the ankle or wind around the leg with thin straps. For men, casually woven leather loafers in brown, as well as white, purposefully weathered oxfords complete a relaxed image. Delicate blown glass chandelier earrings are worn with paisley-shaped pearl and jewel-encrusted torchons and brooches. Finally, Etro’s Rainbow Bag has been remade in velvet with sumptuously ornate detailing, while for men sporty Paisley printed leather duffle bags round out their look. Round tortoiseshell frames are adorned by the brand’s iconic Paisley motif, formed from pearls and crystals.
A study in 3.0 images. John Richmond grabs your attention and keeps you scrolling down, like a social network, your eyes filled with references and unprecedented symbols. The British designer is back for spring-summer 2018 with an alert diaporama on the runway, rebels with a good cause.
A caravanserai featuring input from the Richmond street gang, a tribe of lightning speed. The collection is inspired by a scrapbook of intelligent notes, developing a mood linked to the most symbolic of metropolitan subcultures. To ensure every single detail is forefront in the mind, the brand has forged objects that play with a collective subconscious packed with memories and images. John Richmond’s new concept of femininity is a mash-up of different codes.
It calls on the fearsome Japanese bōsōzoku bands, break beat from Harlem, teddy girls and bling bling from the golden age of hip hop, again in grey scale. It extrapolates something from each one to create women with humungous boomboxes who climb astride motorbikes and zoom off to a concert by Iggy Pop or Siouxsie and the Banshees. The rhythm picks up. And it’s not just the music that has you moving.
“New wave, punk, electro and industrial noise—this is a festival of musical intelligentsia where psychedelic inflections and reflections from very different cultures find a new dimension in fashion, moving towards the future, preserving the quid that has made this label famous.” To quote John Richmond.