In a symbolic location, Damir Doma proposes a collection bound by sculptural strength, drawing upon the memories & moods of a perennial muse. Fabric works envelope the body in fundamental exercises of draping and repair. As kundera attributes ‘slowness’ to the act of remembering, and speed to the act of forgetting, so the collection considers an equilibrium of the travaillé and the untouched.
The cocooned, trapeze silhouette layers a long, straight jacket and a high neckline over wide, short trousers or a fluid skirt to continue an inherent dialogue between the codes of mens and womenswear. Solid colours warm from black and bone white through deep forest green, caramel, cherry, and prussian blue. Belted kimono coats accentuate a pure line, whilst contoured overcoats are dotted with horn buttons and veiled in fringed wool voile.
A timeworn effect touches garments with delicate and brutal details: selvedge traces pockets, zips, and hems on bomber and parka coats, whilst raw seams frame tailoring in waxed leather and wool. Applied to dry jersey, blotches of overprinted japanese paper isolates the same abstract expressionism as rich brushstroke jacquards and a fil coupé prince-of-wales check stamped with crude ellipses.
Rollneck sweaters and a column dress are cinched with cotton tape (like wide sutures) and softened by the speckled melange of inside-out ribbed cashmere knit. On foot, zipped neoprene boots have been edged in rough suede.
“There is so much of the world that we don’t actually perceive and I wanted to explore this concept for the new season. As in architecture, every detail, both inside and out, was carefully calculated to craft the perfect balance between practicality and style.” (Andrea Pompilio)
For FW16, Canali presents a collection that is an exercise in equilibrium, one in which contrasts take center stage. Luxurious and studied elements come together for a seemingly minimalist look as shapes, materials and colors are combined in unique and purposeful ways.
Tartan and checks in varying dimensions appear in suits, pants and outerwear. Silhouettes tend to follow the body’s natural contours while sleeves, pant legs, collars and lapels slim down for a contemporary take on traditional tailoring. Voluminous coats conceal an unexpectedly lightweight air, thanks to an extremely soft wool and alpaca blend whose longhaired nish adds a layer of unique texture to a menswear classic.
Wool features prominently throughout the rest of the collection in the form of heavy gabardines for suits, jackets, pants, coats and sportswear. An extremely compact and extremely smooth cotton velvet makes appearances in select coats and aviator jackets. Pony hair is also a noteworthy new addition, in various colors and mixed with leather to create textural distinctions.
The palette takes on a shadowy and industrial air, dominated by blacks, blues, browns and grays and illuminated by bursts of vibrant shades like brick, peach, burgundy and mustard yellow. Ultra-slim scarves are knotted as ties while long leather and wool gloves are a natural continuation of sleeves. Rugged loafers and work boots with buckles and oversized travel bags and smooth padded backpacks with tumbled leather straps complete the accessory selection.
Shirt collars are in contrast; suits feature an updated closure with one visible button and two hidden ones; belts are integrated via oversized loops directly into pants and coats, which are rendered even more practical by double pockets on each side that blend style and utility.
Passing by and getting close. The Marni collection for fall 2016 has a pervasive sense of movement, ease and intimacy. The silhouette is soft and elegant: clothes flow loosely around the body, as if the fabric was draped or wrapped with minimum interventions.
Wrap-around coats have high slits that create mobile lines. A funnel-neck parka folds with graphic firmness, secured with snap buttons. Raw cuts highlight fragility and strength. Gathered-neck shirts are closed on the back and layered. V-neck wool blouses have frontal outsized pockets.
Buttonless shirts are wrapped on the chest, naturally. Hints of dry romanticism: a broken cuff; broken promise flower prints, cloud motifs. Double breasted coats fall vertically. Single pleat trousers of generous volume are gathered with a button on the ankle, drawing a gentle contour.
Fur provides texture: astrakhan, castorino. The castorino scarf completes the easy precision of the tailored suit. Balance is studiously unbalanced: shirts that get longer on the front; a flash of white buttons on the jacket with patch pockets and a high closure.
Inside-out construction are unexpected as they are pragmatic. Caps and sneakers contradict the elegance of the silhouettes, softly. Firm yet light fabrics carry the exact lines while flowing effortlessly: cotton poplin, wool fresco, double-faced felt, gabardine, viscose twill.
The palette is classic: an instinctive mix of blues, greys, military greens, burgundy, ochre and light blue. Pinstripes run on shirting and suiting. The studious edit of elements and details projects calm. The message is up close and personal.