My appointment as creative director of Iceberg surprised and thrilled me. For my debut I decided to start from this brand’s most authentic DNA: knitwear, element comprising more than 80% of the new spring-summer 2016 Iceberg collection.
Working alongside artisans is a continual discovery: the transition from idea to reality has never come so natural to me. Above all, the very technique, the know-how have become a source of inspiration.
I took my place face to face with the 40 years of Iceberg history with a keen sense of curiosity and a wish for great fun. I felt as if I were stepping outside the radar of my own plan of action so as to bring what I know and what I like into a new and interesting territory.
The army aesthetic and a sport type of cut, both intrinsic to the Iceberg style, were the incipit of my story. To these I added a streak of madness, a playful spirit drawing upon the multicolor creativity and the sense of humor of Enrico Baj, an Italian artist I admire for his carefree concept of anarchy.
My intent is to give shape – through clothing – to the idea of freshness and energy emblematic of today’s world. With Iceberg I’d like to build an easy wardrobe at once cosmopolitan, irreverent and sensual. Knit fabric, in the role of raw material, is perfect for fulfilling this task.
It’s a narrative tool able to capture and express the urge to break the rules all while staying true to tradition. Finally, there’s my love for sharp graphics and for its opposite, disorderliness.
Jacquard and vinyl. Straight lines and soft lines. Optical designs and flat surfaces. In looking at the collection what comes to my mind is a melodic score out of rhythm in a few spots.
It mirrors my aesthetic: rigor and anarchy, a counterpoint that leads me to stretch the style to its limits. Then stop and glance backward, with levity.
Thu, January 21 2016 » Fashion Blog » No Comments
The strong personality of women. In this collection, Iceberg is telling the story of an elegant 1970s aviator: strength, determination and femininity.
Knitwear in primary colors – red, blue color block mode – tempered by beige and gray. Graphic lines: airplanes and a Sottsass spirit meet in an interplay of colored stripes on knits and outerwear.
Cropped aviator jackets in shearling intersected by shiny leather strips. Belts, cut like corsets, that hug and highlight the waist.
We fly, prints are images shot from above. We fly over fields of orchids. We see airport runways. Strict lines, straight cut dresses and tops structured by the high-waisted belts. Blue, black and orchids.
Everything is mixed and the flowers dominate the lines. The heel and sole of shoes are made with pine or mahogany wood, as in ‘70s modernist furniture.
Suede, leather and vinyl define low boots and high cuissards. Here are the two souls of the woman aviator. Strong and sweet.
Severity gradually gives way to livelier shapes in colorful stripes. Glossy black and white vinyl imbue the sporty sweaters with a strong feeling, in contrast to delicate white orchid embroideries.
Tue, June 16 2015 » Fashion Blog » No Comments
Iceberg © Copyright 2014
Summer, super summer! Palm Springs, Californian summery feeling to an active city woman. It all starts with blocks of intense color – blue, red, pink – and the black and white of the micro prints : patchworks designed as Memphis furniture. High-waisted trousers and lapels with slogans such as popsicles package.
California and color: it can not be more summer! The fuchsia and orange are the uniform of the heroine of a video game. Fully printed mini dresses, jackets and pants.
Step by step, black and white is taking over, graphic prints, stripes and organic shapes for a technoïd turn. In a dream where the dragon fruit is the main character, wardrobe for the night. Black is structuring the fantasy. Virtual versus real movement : video game and sports.
Keyword: canyoning. Water and stone. Cuts and rounded edges like scuba suits: zip and straps. Let’s play, pasting stickers everywhere … fruits, spaceships, cocktails and climbers glitter applications on ultra lightweight chiffon … Sparkling plastron covered by a draping of soft embroidery.
Robust leather strap sandals with solid and curved forms heels, rubber effect to the touch. Belts as climbing gear on each silhouette, bucket bags and eyewear reminding the diving ones.
Thu, September 25 2014 » Fashion Blog » No Comments
Iceberg © Copyright 2014
“Rebirth in nature”
A journey deep into Nature. Exploration of the natural universe. Ultimately leading us on a path toward self awareness and self discovery. Introspection and natural essence: two distinct worlds that the Iceberg man always makes his own.
The rigor of the design process keeps apparent disorder in line. That’s the Iceberg way: as in Nature, it’s the secret to attaining perfection, passing through creative chaos.
Soft ergonomic shapes. A fine ‘90s flair, contemporary street style. Natural ease of motion, for the blithest of moods. A palette of earth tones, sky nuances, floral hues: brown, beige, orange, blue. Hints of azure and fuchsia shades.
Prints expressing an oneiric idea of Nature. Macro abstract rose petals offset by flashes of chromatic contrast. Colorful plumes in fanciful formation as a symbol of community belonging. And then tie-dye motifs for a sense of total freedom, pure escape.
A tribute to brand archives: Mickey Mouse in arty avant-garde version. Silk, cotton, cashmere and linen: pure natural fibers. Cotton with a slick techno finish, yet also with all the appeal of a perfectly natural fabric.
Wed, July 9 2014 » Fashion Blog » No Comments
Iceberg © Copyright 2014
In the late 60’s, Parisian High Society escapes to the mountains for an acid moonlight party getaway. This is the mood of the FW 2014 Iceberg women collection. Dream of an Alpine resort merging winter sports and art spirit; a post modern town in the cloudy mountains, built in powerful bright colors and concrete materials.
Using the playful, sporty and arty DNA of the brand in a new way, the collection is also inspired by plastic toys and colorful designs of the space age, in addition to the elegant yet a bit sloppy attitude mandatory to the young Parisian generation. The big squared seal ring makes the link throughout the show, a fil rouge unifying and identifying each of them as part of this new fellowship.
It starts with the « rive gauche bourgeoise ». Kraft color masculine neoprene costumes over white sweaters with bright mink collars that remind vintage ski outfits. The rubber belt detail, between the sporty technical accessory and plastic toy. And on their feet, the girls are wearing sharp metallic shoes.
Then, transparent plastic rectangles move forward as a frenetic trip, growing into the Agam girls. Multicolor embellishments, lacquered and embroidered, arise on the pleated chiffon skirts inspired by the work of artist Yaacov Agam. Mixed with those playful panels, deep colored raw edges felts and sporty knitwear focus the silhouette into the alpine winter feeling. The satellite t-shirt is an allusion to the dream of a journey to a new world.
Making a turn into more « protective » garments, these Alpine ravers are wearing long military parkas and black leather pants. Padded, quilted, the silhouette is assuredly day wear and urban. As the music gets louder, colors turn technoid. Hyper pleated fabrics and knits are scratched by the « electro-graffiti » print. A powerful souvenir of Alexis’s adolescence.
The final destination is near. Acid trance into the molecular mineral spheres. Silver laminated jumpers and light pink knits are mixed with deconstructed chiffon drapings. Embellished with blue felt or glass tube straps, and graphic patches illustrating new kinds of molecules and fantasy landscapes that depict possible foundations of a world in another dimension.
Tue, April 15 2014 » Fashion Blog » No Comments
Thu, March 13 2014 » Fashion Blog » No Comments
Iceberg © Copyright 2013
SPRING/SUMMER 2014 WOMENSWEAR COLLECTION
A revolution as to aesthetic, codes and direction. It’s a return to the brand’s roots, with a strong innovative and icononclastic spirit, no sense of nostalgia. The new spring/summer 2014 Iceberg women’s collection designed by Alexis Martial signals the beginning of a profound change.
Right from the start, the principle of the uniform so dear to Iceberg takes hold. Merging with a Manga aesthetic, it sparks the idea of a boy scout journeying toward Harajuku, Japan. These two universes are clearly highlighted by the use of the color white, which plays a central role in this theme where quasi-couture structures are always fresh and fun.
Inspired by Japanese pop culture, the brand name shows up in pictographic lettering along with the abstract design of an iceberg. In form of embroidered patch or holographic reflector, it appears as if a signature on a variety of items, so creating a leitmotif cutting across the whole collection.
For example, on a baggy streetwear type sweat: other element marking the brand’s archives, though now in the freshest of styles thanks to innovative materials. Leather and neoprene closely coupled with fine muslin turn the latter into a wonderfully edgy basic.
An ultra sheer nylon knit fabric, product of a special textile process, covers print or embroidered dresses to create the impression of an iridescent jellyfish. Lastly, there are clothes more in the way of couture with streetwear accents. Funky volumes. Miniskirts draping on hips.
Impalpable silk muslin dresses with iridescent rhodoid bands and – on top – black knit gilets or aprons evoking a factory or workshop context. Accessories reinforce the distinctly contemporary Nipponic feel of the collection, as in ankle boots and open-toe sandals with soft rubber sole.
Plexiglas studs, jewel-buttons add a luxurious touch to this playful work garb. Even collars come complete with a precious lacquer metal piece that mimics the classic boy-scout neckerchief.
Mon, October 28 2013 » Fashion Blog » No Comments
Thu, September 5 2013 » Fashion Blog » No Comments
The frenetic pace of life in the big metropolis, the dynamic flux and constant discovery of new styles and languages.
Young men speeding toward work on bikes, racing against time on a journey full of hidden dangers and amazing surprises.
Everyday experience becomes urban safari: so is the inspiration for a collection offering a unique slant on our new liquid society. The constant motion that, in the Information Age, turns living into a great adventure once again.
An urbane vision of dressing where formal duality – daytime/evening, inside/outdoor, warm/cold – finds expression in a sole all-encompassing solution.
Sportswear moves forward, evolves thanks to the elaboration of specific designs, items then made finer and richer through tech mesh linings, double openwork leathers, intarsia knits, ergonomic cuts and grosgrain inserts.
Fleece fabric, cashmere, jersey and silk in black, navy and khaki hues. Touches of blue and orange evoking 1990s industrial design, back when shape & color were one and the same.
Tue, September 3 2013 » Fashion Blog » No Comments
Mon, May 20 2013 » Fashion Blog » No Comments