Wed, May 22 2013 » Fashion Blog
Mon, May 20 2013 » Fashion Blog
TALES OF THE MOSCHINOSHIRE
Images that bring the story to life; a mood board in emotional sequence; snapshots of details and stolen moments from which emerges the elegance of Ann Bofoey Taylor, a horseback riding and skiing enthusiast – these are the starting points for the Moschino Fall/Winter 2013-14.
Added to this is the desire for reinterpretation, expressing the most classic, essentially Moschino pieces of clothing with the same declaration of heartfelt love for the British world.
The search begins, from tartan and its colors, for fabrics with the same visual impact and identity. This is a conscious choice, a Scottish-mania expressed in the fabrics, in the gold-embroidered badges, in the Scotland Yard caps, in the red roses and in the embossed Ms that brighten the most colorful tartans.
Men’s-style suits revisited, but always very precise and worn with classic-cut white shirts, uniforms that somewhat recall Japanese schoolgirls and a nod to the style of the countryside with pieces from the equestrian world. The final part of the show “falls back in line” with the absolutely irreplaceable black and white outfits.
Changes and play with fabric, made-up stories and revisited ones, with the only certainty whispered, smiling: “plus ça change, plus c’est la même chose” [“The more things changes, the more they remain the same”]
Tue, April 30 2013 » Fashion Blog
Imagine home with sofas, rugs, pillows, and walls painted as if in a harem. There are paintings and books all over. Amidst the voices, noises, and laughter, someone is reading or painting, while another sews, embroiders, draws, takes photographs, writes, or rummages through left-over yarn.
In the country, they bring back to life old abandoned buildings. They build furniture and objects and decorate fabrics, ceramic objects and bowls. They dig in the soil, water plants, trim trees, pick fruit, and take the dogs out for a walk.
Lea observes, smiles, and records the scene. She presented them to me in… Un altro tempo [the “another time” exhibit] … They have returned – Vanessa, Virginia, Edith, Violet, Vita, Hilda, Dora, Helen, Jessica, and Dorothy – and it’s as if they have never left.
They are always near yet far, continuously searching for another place, another island where they can stop awhile. They are friends, these insolent women, who have caused scandal and triggered fierce disagreements.
Bold and unconventional, polemical and provocative, and blessed with irony and sarcasm, they seek to define what is beautiful and true beyond convention, in complete freedom and with irreverence.
They are eccentric and cosmopolitan. They are not simply extravagant because “eccentricity is not just extravagance: it is primarily nobility of spirit and manner.” I think of their clothes in… Another time …
They shun fads and prefer wearing clothes that express their spirit and faithfully reflect their complex personality. They blend materials, shapes, and prints, luxurious jacquard wallpaper motifs in crimson and ecru devoré velvet and rough masculine tweed, windowpane check wool, pinstripes, and mélange Prince of Wales check.
Gray and brown fabrics borrowed from Saville Row tailor shops are brightened with unexpected splashes of color such as dazzling yellow, deep fuchsia, intense white, and bright red.
Fil coupé jacquard, silk twill, cavalry with Lurex threads, and thick Chanel and silk organza fabric, heavy cotton satin with trailing decoupé flowers in vibrant shades or black and white stripes are featured.
Fragments are extrapolated from their work. Small details are reworked and recreated on prints, organza, and traditional British plaid combined with Chantilly lace. Fabrics that are seemingly very different are, due to an absurd alchemy, combined and blended to tell a story about city life.
They are then rearranged and used with country elements to narrate tales about the country. Vintage menswear jackets in tweed and Prince of Wales checks are brought back to life in a fresher, new version, assembled together and embellished with rustic embroidery.
Army blankets that once covered old sofas or humble beds are turned into oversized greatcoats with an exuberant mixture of inserts made of luxurious fabrics alternating with velvet and nubby tweed. Rose covered fabric inserts, floral elements, macramé lace, and striking traditional embroidery.
They enjoy playfully separating, rearranging and combining roses, beading, and lace. They create chaos, a hodgepodge of vibrant fragments, and yet they seek symmetry through these endless contrasts.
They recreate new figures through contrasts of dark and light, kaleidoscopic rainbows of SWAROVSKI ELEMENT crystals, luminous effects, and a combination of merging elements which are used to express themselves and their fascinating dichotomy and oxymorons that exist within and finally emerge.
That’s how I see them dressed, surrounded by art, literature, travel, the city, country, trees, gardening, past and present, each in her own world.
Mon, April 22 2013 » Fashion Blog
Thu, April 11 2013 » Fashion Blog
A well educated elegance, more than formal and almost compelled, graces this Andrea Incontri collection. Discretion, a stern mood yet modern and sensual is on top of the list for this eccentric lady apparently ordinary, yet extraordinary.
Incontri designs the beauty of well mannered and measured geastures, the importance of dressing well: lost traditions to help define contemporary femininity.
This project was born from fabrics, from the matter of clothes, to build up a clear image with precise lines and shapes. A long lean silhouette, essential small proportions, new tailored separates all make for a brand new concept of elegance.
Frottage inspired original prints create hints of sculptures and ancient coins on different textures, taking decoration to a whole new level.
Wool crépe, structured fabrics, tricot inspired embroideries on sheer organza: fabrics get a 3D quality.
The colour palette is deep: light blue, thick yellow, sweet pink, dark red, ivory, black and chestnut brown. Romantic little dresses with small collars, silk jacquard pieces where roses bloom, candid crisp shirts and warm soft long wintery coats.
A whole collection of accessories completes the look. Polished leather handbags with contrasting colour pockets, bidimentional sleek bags, evening clutches with dark crystals beaming gently.
Tall boots get things straight: the mood is well defined by sensual heels on feminine shoes that don’t let decoration take over the essence of shape and function. Evening mules, bon ton mary-jean shoes and the signature stilettoes come in solid colours: ink black, deep red, hot chocholate, sweet beige.
Sat, April 6 2013 » Fashion Blog
Sat, April 6 2013 » Fashion Blog
Woman and nature, so alike: tender, deep, mysterious, provoking, full of beauty and joy, power and discovery, simplicity, history, sophistication.
This is the season to feel the universe. The universe of color: talco, navy, khaki, olive. All the greens of a meadow or forest. And golds on a beach. Rich autumnal reds, saturated. Then cool purple and blue winter skies.
The universe of texture: morning satin, evening sheen, cashmere, mohair, snake leather. Gentle wools, woven looser, closer. All over beads shining, or fringes swishing. Our iconic wire shimmering.
The universe of pattern: lines as slender as grass. Then shapes as bold as trees, A’s and T’s, boxy, cropped, mid and maxi, wrapped, then flowing.
The body is a woman’s universe. Explore the warm contrasts of dress and all the accents. Fine shoes, boots to the ankle, maybe fringed, strapped. Bi-color gloves, long, chic and intimate. Elegant bags as soft structures in the hand.
Feel nature this season. Feel natural.
Fri, April 5 2013 » Fashion Blog
Our daytime Dames-Masculines arrives walking with sinuous swaggers thank to ultra tight mid length skirts. Fabrics carry a masculine air; tweed, pinstripes and wool. Apart from the occasional electric primary, the colors have been gently dusted down; Pink blushes, mossy greens, dark sages, smoky lavenders and nutty taupes set the tone. Hardwearing cloths are made luxurious with a rushed edging that’s threaded throughout the collection. Carefully placed touches of tortoise-shell, girly pouf bow ties, detachable pins, bejeweled buttons and glittering adornments make this daywear rich. Silk and camisole lace play peek-a-boo as undergarments beneath the rigid tailoring of these classic 40s silhouettes.
A boyish ‘Jazz Pant’ appears with a wide leg that slips down the tight to below the shoe. These trousers carry a marked waistband that lazily slouches accidentally-on-purpose off the hip, a fit that has been precisely considered to give these retro-dames a decidedly dynamic air. The pants come paired with the female version of the double breasted, Finely cut yet unlined Napoli Jackets, made by a men’s tailor and fitted for a woman’s body.
The final touch are layered crumpled socks and nylons that dip into shoes that carry those chunky heels reminiscent of dance shoes from the 40s. The bag accessory is a simple Port Perry with “boomerang” lines, in either astrakhan fur, patent leather or in the smoothest of satins.
The hats in this collection are a mix of the best retro Americana and Parisian styles from the early 20th century; The western-style ten gallon fedora, stolen from the boyfriend and a set of ‘cutie-pie’ berets in feathers and felt are easily recognizable, but watch out for the part baseball mesh net and part house turban, because it’s here that Dean and Dan have broken the mould.
There is a gasp as the evening’s enchantresses enter. All wear a ‘slip-of-a thing’; Floor length dresses, made up of webs of intricate tendrils that swirl about their contours. From these vines spring newborn leaves that are gently sprinkled with showers of diamante raindrops. These ladies of the night float forward in a froth of delicate lace. In a mist of ostridge feathers or on pillows of soft downy mink ripples. The are visions of pure sumptuousness, glamour and desirability.
Sat, March 23 2013 » Fashion Blog
Thu, March 14 2013 » Fashion Blog