With courageous experimentation and a contemporary aesthetic, the style is fueled by paradox and hybridization, the security of tradition and the absurdities of modern life.
For the Trussardi Women’s Collection Spring/Summer 2017, Gaia Trussardi uses fashion as a sort of universal dialog to unite worlds, cultures and questions on the consequences of the post-modern age.
What we know about Italian elegance and upper-class society, the core elements of the Trussardi aesthetic, is combined with the often misunderstood and dissonant elements of countercultures and the Digital Age, like a rap song mixing past and present with a frenetic beat.
References are philosophical and pop: on one hand there is Theodor W. Adorno and his post-modern theories, while on the other is the cinematic drift of Baz Luhrmann, the director of film masterpieces such as Romeo+Juliet and Moulin Rouge and the recent TV series The Get Down.
The Elegantly Pop concept boldly reinterprets, revives and revs up the finest tradition, giving it a contemporary vibe. The uptown wardrobe features Lurex leggings with graphic prints resembling trainer pants. The reassuring, tasteful minimalist colors of the late seventies clash with the glossy, dazzling hues of the eighties. Logo motifs are printed on shantung and gauze that are used instead of wool for the new “pop suit”.
Oversized jackets, made of shiny leather in vibrant colors or suede in subtle, dusty shades, are worn over pencil skirts or with high-waisted tapered jeans. Denim shines with silvery laminated elements given a craquelé effect. Logo prints dominate and contrast. The flat cable-stitching of country club knits is transformed into ghetto-style trim on oversized trousers. Python leather in Pop Art hues is used to accent more classic pieces like the frame of a videogame image.
Accessories are just as bold. Footwear features the square-toe loafer, while boot heels are decorated with a multicolored leather patchwork motif. Trussardi’s new iconic Lovy Bag dazzles with polka dots, logo prints, and colorful shiny leathers.
Even the jewelry exclusively created for Trussardi by young jewelry designer Maria Vittoria Paolillo perfectly blends with and completes the looks.
Thu, September 29 2016 » Fashion Blog
Purity. Essential to the Missoni Summer 2017 Collection: characterized by an informai and relaxed elegance and exemplified in the tank dresses that adhere to the body. Overlays of ribbed headbands, sarong scarves and petite cardigans tied at the waist define the silhouette.
Deep v-necks. Pieces with tromp-l’oeil effects. Lines that caress the body in micro dresses and fresh bathing suits and bikinis with micro tops and high-cut bottoms fashioned from lightweight space-dye knitwear. Illuminated by dazzling gold lamé that accentuates the spectacular nature and sensuality of the each individual piece, transforming them into precious jeweled objects.
The soft versatility of Missoni knitwear plays a principle part in the collection; evermore refined and exclusive due to our unique and innovative knitting techniques.
Textures are shaved, perforated, raised, elaborated, compacted and weightless; as delicate and airy as a spider’s web. Irregular color blocking is mixed with malachite or tiger stripes. Embroidered lace-knits and space-dye meshes are enhanced by brilliantly intense contrasts of yellow, turquoise, coral, sand, white and black.
New tones, stitches and compositions superimpose themselves to create differing lights and weights, creating aesthetically-rich variations. Knitwear plays on geometric forms while imitating the markings of solid stone and the natural surface erosion of rocks and pebbles.
Large, colorfully-lacquered disk earrings and talismanic bijoux inspired by exotic masks playfully accentuate looks that are completed by babouche slippers made from knitted patchworks and space-dyes, in foiled leather or decorated intarsia designs in a halide scope of vibrant colors.
Wed, September 28 2016 » Fashion Blog
Fausto Puglisi has been inspired to present his women’s collection in Milan in a new dramatic environment and format. He collaborated on the fashion experience with Armando Punzo the artistic director of the Fortezza Theatre in Volterra. Puglisi arrived at his creative concept this summer as he traveled to his home of Sicily and was emotional and visually affected by the dark landscape, ruined architecture and historical oppression of the South of Italy.
But as he reached his home he thought of the strong, authoritative women who in contrast inhabited this region over the years. “The world in many ways has one south that is genuinely part of me” said Puglisi. “The south that instinctively mixes ancient traditions with a sense of freedom and explosive passion. The south that has an underlying restlessness, a place of ancestral meanings, the south that melts old and new traditions.”
As seen in different ways in his design vocabulary, Sicily and South Florida have the same fascination for Fausto. They have an intensity, the capability of producing beauty with contrast and clashes, creating vivid aesthetics that are highly distinctive as seen in full force in this collection.
Puglisi’s spring/summer designs are a liberating scream against all entrapments, a rebellious act – driven by aesthetics – towards an idea of beauty, pleasurable and hypnotic. Reassuring but reactionary. The dream is to use boundaries to overcome them, always knowing that the sanctity of the female body goes through a sincere narrative. The set, a three story industrial structure though which the models traveled, was enlaced with architectural and other iconography.
“I thought about a shrine in which every woman can be a Goddess – like Minerva, powerful, immortal and fearless. And of course beautiful in her own ways” said Puglisi. Italy has been the temple of decorations since the Byzantine’s sense of luxury lured the masses towards an increasingly popular Catholic movement.
The iconography is also part of many cultures of South Florida. Puglisi absorbs this heritage to narrate its soft and gentle, sweet side. With hand painted prints evoking Eighteen Century wallpaper patterns, he creates a contrasting balance with his signature color blocking. The cross, a symbol of the Catholic iconography is used as a graphic sketched pattern. The washed denim, sewn together with leather, marks the fine line between rules and unapologetic freedom.
Puglisi’s iconic pieces are all there: the biker jacket, the boyfriend shirt, the varsity bomber, the caban, the oversize t-shirt. This collection is mostly a hymn to falling house of cards, to oppressive walls that collapse, to obscure ideologies that often become reality. It’s the constant quest for freedom of expression that incessantly moves Puglisi on this personal creative path.
The Fausto Puglisi Spring/Summer 2017 fashion event took place at a former theatre in Milan. Puglisi’s body of work is a study in bold contrasts, and reflects his Italian origins as well as his fascination with all facets of American culture.
Wed, September 28 2016 » Fashion Blog
UPTOWN MEETS DOWNTOWN ON THE DANCE FLOOR
Dressing up and crossing town to let it all out on the dance floor, the Dsquared2 woman of next summer is royalty on the streets of the 80s. Her look is high color, high glam mixed with marching band uniform details.
Adorning herself in symbols of luxe—animal prints, plush mink, sequins and ribbons, the Dsquared2 femme of next summer rotates a lineup of mini-dresses, bodysuits, skirts and glitzed-up denim. Every piece is laden with detail. Puffed shoulders decorated with grosgrain ribbon bows, top embroidered jackets, and mini skirts are finished with rouche bunches of silk faille.
Slinky mini dresses are lush in color and texture: silk shoulders, transparent bodices appliquéd with military-style black or gold bouillon, the skirt in contrast zebra stripes or leopard spots. Ornate embroidery work covers cropped bomber jackets: one features gold Dsquared2 house crests and gold metal lace ribbons and livery embroidery, another in leopard spots embellished with black beads.
Black diagonal stripes on skirts and tops are covered with gauzy chiffon. Sitting low on the hips, oversized jeans are cropped or long. Ultra-treatments including dappled acid-washes, white-out bleaching, rips and darns are glamourized in several looks with a coating of glossy transparent sequins or allover crystals.
Surreal-inspired motifs are hammered into enamel laden metal accessories topped with grosgrain bows. A jeweled eye, open lips smoking a cigarette, a cross and a heart are then crafted into earrings, brooches and decorative hardware on satin pointed toe sling-backs, and open-toe stiletto boots that lace up with velvet ribbons.
Diverse sized DD bags—in the collection’s sequin studded plaids, glossy satins and animal prints—have handles designed to link together. The new mini sized DD with a top handle is made for joining the party on the dance floor.
Tue, September 27 2016 » Fashion Blog
A seductive endless summer
Who hasn’t dreamed of leaving everything behind and running away to a tropical island? This desire inspires the Philosophy di Lorenzo Serafini Spring Summer 2017 girls.
I imagined a gathering of disenchanted, sensual castaways on an island in the Southern seas, dancing on the beach while wearing 19th century clothing found in ancient trunks, washed to shore by the current.
Icon: Brooke Shields in Blue Lagoon
Clothing to be reinterpreted and styled in the spirit of a modern Brooke Shields in Blue Lagoon.
Collection: 19th century Romanticism with unmistakable 80s accents give a playful, summery vibe to the Philosophy SS17 collection.
Sensual dresses, fluid and asymmetrical; soft, woven cotton sweaters; rich skirts with raw cut edges; voluminous tops cinched by corsaire belts.
Dresses are layered, appearing sensual and light, hanging from delicate straps.
The black and white color palette is alternated with different shades of mauve and pink. Light, multicolored lace and brilliant tropical prints.
Tue, September 27 2016 » Fashion Blog
The mood of the pioneer, the wanderlust of the pagan traveller exploring the universe of Roberto Cavalli, is the inspiration for Creative Director Peter Dundas’ spring/summer 2017 Roberto Cavalli collection. A melange of inspirations and influences, times and places, she wears her world, combining different cultures in a mix that feels quintessentially now and uniquely Cavalli.
Patchwork is a key notion: the patchworking of fabric, but also of different eras and locales. The Americas are a key starting point, prints and fabrics of Navajo and Apache tribes alongside the embroidered tailoring of Nudie Cohn, an ode to Elvis and the rock-and-roll heartbeat that throbs under every Cavalli collection. They combine with kimonos, Egyptian textiles, Buffalo soldiers, Victorian pioneers, and jaguar prints from Africa. A whole Cavalli world.
The collection is a game of contrasts. Noble fabrics – fils coupé jacquards and velvets – combine with denim. The art of the mix is vital. Gossamer beaded gowns, louche and decadent, are laced together along the seams, another form of patchwork, lending emphasis to their exquisite embellishment.
Colours are vivid, with gold, solarised orange, sunbleached pastels and chambray denim blue. Ombré finishes lend a patina of age, of clothes that have already lived and travelled.
The voyager mood is underlined by accessories: for day, generous hunter bags, while embroidered Victorian purses are a delicate accent for evening. Jewellery is artisanal, referencing native American tribal jewellery combined with Victoriana. Platform-sole wooden clogs are inspired by traditional Scandinavian dress, made glamorous via luxurious fabrics and craftsmanship.
The line is long, sinuous, the signature serpentine Cavalli silhouette evoked through slender flares and goddess gowns, skin seductively revealed through transparent fabrics and corset lacing. Male models walk alongside female in their finery, wardrobes in synch via an urge to exploration and love of cultural clash – the new Cavalli traveller tribe.
Tue, September 27 2016 » Fashion Blog
Active summer: The dynamic Versace life lived with absolute freedom. Our ultra-lightweight nylon has been worked to create a beautiful draping effect, making it billowy and luxurious. Tailoring in technical jersey sculpts the form, confirmed by a harness belt.
Drawstring pulls control the volume of nylon sleeveless dresses, creating ruching that sinuously contours the form. Bonded waterproofs are given Versace attitude: the mac is cropped, the skirt is mid-calf and fluid, with a trim of see-through plastic. A new print clashes checkerboards with fresh Versace lettering, while another new print is like the swirl of baroque waves on a powerful ocean.
Below the knee dresses are liberated by high slashes, pleats and wrapped panels, allowing ease and energy in movement. Strips of specially-created lace trim Versace essentials such as tanks, sweatshirts, shirts and skirts, the lace edges left free to ripple in the air. Versace crystal chain mail is embroidered to create a new mesh, its fluidity echoing in crepe wrap dresses held by a buckle with flowing straps.
Platform sandals have functional straps, while high heel platforms hold the foot with scuba. The new Stardust bag takes inspiration from the guitar strap, either used as a strap or as a fastening detail, the leather soft for a rock’n’roll attitude.
The soundtrack is a specially-written new track by Violet & Photonz, celebrating the strength of women, and the power of the female future.
“Sportswear is the future of fashion; to make it unique and luxurious is the challenge I took this season. This is a collection that is all about a woman’s freedom: freedom of movement, freedom of activity, freedom to fight for their ideas, freedom to be whomever you want to be.”
Mon, September 26 2016 » Fashion Blog
Sun, September 25 2016 » Fashion Blog
Beauty, before all and above all. An undeniable beauty, always recognizable, never nostalgie. It is not only current, but also looks to the future.
The Ermanno Scervino Women’s Spring/Summer 2017 collection has a continuous push towards objective beauty, obtained through a meticulous attention to details in the construction of garments and choice of materials. The sartorial craftsmanship, contemporary and refined through a continuous process of experimentation, is at thè service of beauty.
Everything is new. The fashion house’s iconic trait of pleated lace is more modern, worked into a honeycomb with cutting-edge sartorial techniques. Vertical and horizontal lines are placed together to create new optical effects. Eco-leather jumpsuits and jackets trace the silhouette of tomorrow onto the body.
Suits, in total white or with an animal pattern printed on astrakhan embroidery, are embellished with jewelled fiorai decorations that outline an Art Nouveau style of thè future. Uniform-inspired outerwear is completely de-constructed, reinventing itself in a sensual key with taste. Rope becomes a chic accessory or embroidery.
For the evening wear, beauty is sublimated in dreams. Silk organza creates dresses with an impalpable lightness, in delicate shades or in bold black softened by embroidered flowers, leaving a dream-like trail in their wake.
Sun, September 25 2016 » Fashion Blog
Watch the Philosophy di Lorenzo Serafini Spring Summer 2017 Fashion Show in Live Streaming – Milan 24th September 2016 7 PM. Stay Tuned…!!!
Sat, September 24 2016 » Fashion Blog