Family–the glue that binds us together– and the house traditions of craft and artisanship form the twin foundations of a Salvatore Ferragamo collection that is light, bright and designed for joyful living in the 2020’s.
Paul Andrew explains: “It started with a photo on my mother’s mantelpiece of my brother and I on summer holiday in Italy when we were kids in the 1980s. We are wearing clashing Bermuda prints and smiles. I wanted to bring that feeling of fun and sun-drenched innocence into a modern context with a collection that is physically very light and knowingly bourgeois but which also has tangible depth, substance and care in its construction.”
The house icon Vara shoe, designed by Fiamma Ferragamo, daughter of house-founder Salvatore, in 1979 is lovingly reinvented as the Viva: mono-colour in a sophisticated spectrum of tones, the famous grosgrain bow is enlarged and expressed in leather – as is the original shoe’s hardware accessory – on a pump that comes either cinched in the back or with a solidly crafted upper.
New prints featuring Ammannati’s 16th Century Fountain of Neptune in Florence – recently restored thanks to funding from the Ferragamo family – play against oversized tulip prints on backless short dungarees, scarf-caps, long easy silk devore dresses, men’s shirting and swimwear.
Bubble skirts, cinched-ankle trousers, racerback tailored waistcoats and wide-legged dungarees are all affectionate Italian-flavoured 80s revivals, often expressed in leather and presented in a colour story designed to echo the tradition of Murano glassmaking. 3D printed jewellery in clear resin is shot through with sinuous twist of colour. Trenches and dungarees are cut open at the back to let the skin breathe: leather fronted trousers and shirts are backed in cotton to conjure a striking contrast.
Artisanal achievements include a Raschel knit dress and top striped in fringed ribbons of crepe de chine, and a hand crocheted tank-dress made in the hills above Florence. A light fringe-edged skirt of woven silk features a sash panel. Men’s tailoring is breezily split-seamed.
The new Ferragamo triple pocket expandable handbag comes in leather-lined linen canvas, hand woven leather mesh, ostrich and waxed calfskin and is presented in a new shoulder slung size.
Paul Andrew says: “Precious but never heavy, these are clothes, shoes and bags to cherish far beyond a single season for many summers to come. They are built for long languid days of sun, salt, sand and ocean. I hope that for those who own them, in the years to come they will be a little like that photo on my mother’s mantelpiece: a well-worn reminder of happy times.”
Wed, September 25 2019 » Fashion Blog
In the first men’s collection under the creative direction of Paul Andrew, Florence comes alive with the energy of a multicultural, multigenerational vision for the Ferragamo man. The city’s profound artistic, intellectual and economic traditions, the neighboring mills, factories and artisans, the famed Fountain of Neptune recently restored by Ferragamo — all serve as the rich ingredients of a new aesthetic direction, the style code for a new era. At once gloriously ancient and stunningly modern, Florence is the fire in the eye of Ferragamo, a place with which it is and shall always be synonymous.
Traditional menswear codes encounter more youthful notions of style in this collection, such that a lightweight technical parka takes the place of a classic blazer, the five-pocket jean is flared and in leather, the trouser is full throughout the leg and long, and the tailored jacket is rendered as utilitarian sportswear. Masculinity is communicated with a freedom no longer constrained by inflexible gender norms.
Colour, raw material and innovative craft hold information and convey culture in Paul Andrew’s Ferragamo. A broad palette of earth tones and natural shades is illuminated with saturated moments of candy pink, luminous green and deep night. Nappa leather bonded with cotton jersey, technical linen gabardine, ripstop cotton nylon, wool mohair, deerskin and sueded calfskin comprise an essential catalog of researched fabrics and skins across ready-to-wear and leather goods.
Inspired by archival shoe designs and local Tuscan artisans, intricate weaving techniques and raffia embroideries appear in passages of womenswear, connecting the men’s universe with the women’s, affirming the fundamental role of craftsmanship as the origin and beating heart of the house.
The marriage of high-craft and high-tech, a signature concept in Andrew‘s vision for Ferragamo, is articulated here in a split-platform espadrille, an interchangeable laced suede sandal-boot inspired by Salvatore’s 1951 ‘Kimo’ style, and a leather and rubber sneaker conceived with bench-made savoir faire. Bags and small leather goods project the luxury of impeccable skins and unadorned utility.
Envisioned by Paul Andrew, the Ferragamo man has lived and loved, won and lost, and has the wisdom and dimension that comes only with experience. His identity can be celebrated on the podium, but it does not rely upon showcase to exist. Indeed, he is uninterested in being discovered – he has already found himself.
Fri, June 14 2019 » Fashion Blog
Tue, February 26 2019 » Fashion Blog
Salvatore Ferragamo© Copyright 2019
Family, the cultural continuity between generations, and power – all have been central to the spirit of Salvatore Ferragamo. It is a quiet power that distinguishes the house, a power Paul Andrew and Guillaume Meilland explore for Autumn/Winter 2019 and figure into the zeitgeist as an antidote to its pervasive unrest. The revelation comes in a kaleidoscopic display of identity and all its nuance: impossible to characterize in one attitude or gesture, their men and women refuse easy definitions and instinctively embrace a politics of togetherness.
Patchworks of suede, nappa, snake and lizard in women’s accessories and ready-to-wear speak to this prevailing notion of multiplicity and allude to Mr. Ferragamo’s ubiquitous multicolor patchwork wedge of 1942. The same symbolic tactic is echoed in archival scarf prints in modern patchwork on silk twill. Fringed cashmere blanket coats, sensual leather robes, sportswear in Japanese technical wool and hand-knit textured sweaters convey a natural, unstudied luxury. The Gancini monogram jacquard, a new signature, visually locates the collection in a place and time without needing to tiredly assert a heritage.
Tailored garments imagined with an outdoor sensibility frame the menswear proposal. Deerskin, corduroy and technical wool gabardine give jackets and outerwear presence and gravitas. Engineered shapes and utilitarian trims are essential features both of design and end-use. The new suit is three-button, soft shouldered, the lapel widened, in traditional British and Italian cloths.
Shoes not only importantly anchor the collection looks; they are the fundamental ingredients of the Ferragamo formula. Sculptural heels appear in bright suedes, nipped-point toe stilettos in satin with hand encrusted rhinestone straps, and pull-on boots in butter calfskin. Nubuck trekking boots and a twist on the classic loafer for men further emphasize the tension between classic and rugged. Handbags in everyday styles are rendered soft and deconstructed in suede and tumbled deerskin or assume singularity as small, handheld objects.
A new creative horizon at Ferragamo begins to come into focus, with a renewed commitment to crafting innovative products for a generation that sees luxury everywhere and nowhere, and for whom inclusion and authenticity rise as beacons of possibility, hope.
Mon, February 25 2019 » Fashion Blog
Ferragamo Autumn Winter 2018 marks a new chapter for the historic fashion house. Paul Andrew presents his inaugural collection as women’s creative director, joining Guillaume Meilland as design director for men’s.
This collection finds motivation in the frayed edges of modern decadence: a party once thought endless in the twilight hours jolting to reality at the first light of dawn. A new construct of dressing emerges: familiar forms are stripped back, loosened and elongated with ease and elevated functionality. Traditional silhouettes are expertly dissolved for a contemporary take on formal codes. Materials are unrivaled: from plush leathers to Italian wool fabrics, to heavy silk twill and soft cottons.
Broad strokes of colour were the starting point; merlot reds and mustard yellows mix expertly with parakeet green and deep vatican blue between hints of nude and blush. Footwear, the keystone of ferragamo’s storied history, is the seed of a collection that was purposefully visualized from the ground up.
The women’s collection channels the refined ease of Ferragamo’s legacy lit up with vigorous freshness. Leather is the fundamental material, in calfskin coats with impossibly soft cashmere lining and pull-on knee-high boots innabuk andostrich. Trousers in buttery nappa leather and wool-silk blends are exactingly cropped to pull focus downward to the shoe.
Knits are designed to complement leather pieces: from cashmere sweater dresses to ponchos. Shirt-dresses are fabricated from the material of silk foulards sourced from the archive. Galvanized block heels molded in three heights — whose metallic glazing was finished in automobile factories — have been sourced from archival 1930s-era Ferragamo styles. Merino shearling knee-high boots are dyed green and red like 70s shag pile carpeting and lined internally with lusciously soft calfskin.
Menswear is an elevated take on the utilitarian: authentic pieces have been restudied and revised with innovative construction. Shirting in silk twill, wool, leather and shearling — featuring hand-stitched finishing by master tailors — forms the anchor of the collection, echoing the womenswear pieces. Layering brings fluidity to a winter wardrobe.
Cotton bonded rain coats are updated in a relaxed, streamlined silhouette; inside, printed silk lining introduces a sly hint of hidden pattern. An english donkey jacket, lengthened and oversized from the original, is designed in double wool- cashmere with leather shoulders.
The all-new ‘the studio bag’ in crocodile, ostrich, shearling and soft calf is in great company next to petite camera bags and roomy overnighters with printed lining taken from cravat fabrics. The doppio gancini, Ferragamo’s iconic logo, is represented in ornamental hardware: oversized on triple-cuoio soled men’s shoes and at the waist as women’s belts.
Wed, February 28 2018 » Fashion Blog
Individuality. Distinctiveness. The Ferragamo Spring/Summer 2018 collection by Fulvio Rigoni celebrates women, exalting their multi-faceted styles, personalities and beauty. Inspired by the uniqueness of the women who wore Salvatore Ferragamo shoes. Greta Garbo, Carmen Miranda, Brigitte Bardot, Eva Peron and Marilyn Monroe, to whom the legendary shoemaker contributed in defining their elegance and allure.
“No two women are the same – I wanted to celebrate women’s individuality and style, vivid colors – ever evolving femininity, ”states Fulvio Rigoni, Design Director for the Salvatore Ferragamo Women’s RTW Collections.
Similarly, the collection is hinged on great standalone pieces with assorted silhouettes, textures, prints and attitudes that lend themselves to be mixed-and-matched liberally, according to one’s personality. Drawing from a vast time frame – pencil silhouettes from the Twenties, fringes from the Thirties, Fifties’ full skirts, Seventies flares – each look is put together to tell a different story with femininity, quality and color as the common thread. Each one is infused with a surprise element, a modernist twist and highly-detailed touches that represent Ferragamo’s idea of “high tech, high craft.”
Quintessentially Ferragamo, the color palette features shots of geranium pink, emerald green, bright red and plum, tempered by pastels and white.
Textures play a key role. Tops and wide-legged pants with a mélange effect are made with crocheted chinè cotton; perforations are micro on suede and macro on hand-painted python for a semi-transparent look, at once unexpected and vivid.
Prints are exclusive and inventive. Striped graphic prints offer an unusual 3-D effect as if different fabrics were draped, layered and twisted while the florals include a maxi flower positioned on the side or a hazy, painterly all-overall motif, at times enriched with gauzy patterned overlays for an X-ray effect. They appear on dresses, tops and evening gowns, in varying lengths, often asymmetrical for a more fluid, relaxed and summery elegance.
High-skilled artisanship elevates the knitwear enriched with labor-intensive intarsia inserts.
The accessories add the finishing touch with small leather bags featuring gold and silver Gancini hardware evocative of costume jewelry like metal bracelet-looking handles, geometric totes and belt bags in rich choc brown. The footwear spans from embroidered stretch booties with Ferragamo’s signature “Flower” and “Cage” heel, to embellished flat sandals and cross-over mules.
Head-to-toe Individuality that crystalizes and respects the personality of each woman.
Sat, November 11 2017 » Fashion Blog
Salvatore Ferragamo © Copyright 2017
GUILLAUME MEILLAND DESIGN DIRECTOR, MEN’S READY-TO-WEAR
Guillaume Meilland pursued formal fashion studies in Paris in the 1990s, focusing on the rigor and precision of menswear design . Entering the luxury fashion industry in 2002, he collaborated on a number of prestigious menswear lines before in 2007 overseeing men’s sportswear design for Yves Saint Laurent. The following year he was named Senior Designer of Lanvin Menswear, a position he held for eight years before joining Salvatore Ferragamo in September 2016.
As Design Director of Men’s Ready-to-Wear, Ferragamo bestows Meilland with a unique history and ethos with which to further hone his vision for silhouette, construction, fabric and palette – in doing so, forging vibrant new codes in masculine dressing for the luxury Italian House, whether finest tailoring or sports-infused casualwear. “As a menswear designer,” says Meilland, “Ferragamo’s commitment to innovation and quality is particularly palpable; indeed, the notion of ‘Made In Italy’ feels like an exciting responsibility, and one I take very seriously as I integrate the experiences and ideas I’ve accumulated into this latest chapter for the House.”
Meilland continues: “No influence is more present for me than that of Salvatore Ferragamo himself. His restless pursuit of pioneering design, unrivalled craftsmanship and ‘the perfect fit’ feels more relevant today than ever before. As I discover quite how daring he was throughout his career, my greatest inspiration has been to imagine what forms, techniques, materials and philosophies Salvatore would be developing were he alive today. To honor his legacy feels like a wonderful challenge for someone whose own life has been steeped in both a deep respect for traditional craft and a passion for creating new sartorial expressions for the modern man.”
Mon, January 23 2017 » Fashion Blog
Tue, May 31 2016 » Fashion Blog
Geometry and dynamism. Clarity and rhythm. The Salvatore Ferragamo A/W 15-16 collection by Massimiliano Giornetti revolves around an idea of unaligned rigour.
The overall simplicity of lines is stirred by controlled asymmetries, brightened by the material tactility of the surfaces, the juxtapositions of textures and densities; multiplied by graphic elements, underlined by contrasts.
The search for haute craftsmanship highlights one of the leading traits of Ferragamo aesthetics, the expression of manual dexterity alongside inventiveness and intuition, rigorous method and experimental freedom.
The silhouette is defined and vertical, with high waistlines. The clean and affirmative shapes splinter and move, crossed by diagonal lines cutting and structuring the silhouette.
Overlapping wraparounds, clean cut necks, and essential sheaths create a simultaneous succession of themes and variations. Athletic stripes run along tight-knit jerseys.
Or become pleats on tweed skirts, dematerialized by the weightless chiffon intarsia that only glimmer when stirred. Contrasting stripes mark hemlines.
Small, asymmetric cloaks and clean-cut long tabards convey a quest for extreme simplification, accentuated and contradicted by playful, contrasting interiors. Resin buttons with concentric circumferences, both functional and decorative, punctuate the figure.
The definition of surfaces is also geometrical and structural: a patchwork of mink intarsia or textured embroidery for lean coats; coloured marquetry creates rhythmical abstractions on chiffon gowns.
The palette is concentrated and captivating, full of harmonious contrasts: black, deep green, brown, touches of yellow, ivory, red, fuchsia. Materials are particular and inviting: wool crêpe, double cashmere, stretch jersey.
The idea of multiple materials and precise design stands out in the rigorous yet eccentric accessories. The sandals with sculpted heels are realised with combinations of crocodile, python, and suede.
Shoulder bags with rounded flaps pair mink with matte or shiny leather. Little cross-body bags designed in fur accompany striped bucket bags that reveal flashes of contrasting lining.
Knotted bracelets in metal and mink and belts in twisted origami seal the search for a blurred and whimsical accuracy.
Wed, June 17 2015 » Fashion Blog
For the Salvatore Ferragamo Fall Winter 2015 collection, Massimiliano Giornetti explores tactile elegance to stimulate the senses. Different elements are mixed to create a fabulous design: a fairy tale story made up of fantasy and creativity.
His narrative framework, fashioned by an intriguing language of symbols, animal motifs, stitches, and ties, is combined into a pristine men’s wardrobe.
The centre of this universe is filled with positive resilience and virile sensuality. Silhouettes are soft with relaxed and voluminous profiles. Surfaces owe their treatments to a skill of concentration and precision. Key pieces lay the blueprint for his wardrobe: tailored suiting, double- breasted jackets, blousons and outerwear including duffel coats.
The tailoring is neat and light. Against this backdrop are unexpected flashes of surprise; multi-coloured embroidery and leather patchwork create surreal animal motifs: zebras, flamingos, monkeys. Knitwear masters woven motifs intertwined with stitching or is intensely finished in lightweight treatments.
Striking three-dimensional coats are worn with cable-knit pullovers and big scarves: bold and ever-present, materials are central as the true protagonists. Unshakeable, traditional leathers and fabrics are permanently altered, transformed by artisanal handwork.
An emphasis on experimental craft techniques underlines and updates one of Ferragamo’s founding principles, a unique vision transcending time, with a foundation built by invention and innovation, rigorous methods and free associations.
The colour palette: woody and nocturnal. Shades of dark green, chestnut, deep red, black and melange grey are lit up by bright, decorative details.
The accessories are melded together, reflecting the intentional, unusual combinations and unexpected pairings portrayed throughout the collection.
Crocodile lace-ups and boots are reinforced at the toes and heels with natural leather emphasized by visible stitching; casting the illusion of blending footwear, the accumulative effect highlighted by contrasting textures.
Generously-sized duffels in various materials carry the motif, reworking Salvatore Ferragamo’s original bag for the modern gentleman.
The story is studded with miniature jewels in a decorative, narrative gesture where bronze and horn claws are used as buckles and brooches.
Tue, January 27 2015 » Fashion Blog