Ferragamo Autumn Winter 2018 marks a new chapter for the historic fashion house. Paul Andrew presents his inaugural collection as women’s creative director, joining Guillaume Meilland as design director for men’s.
This collection finds motivation in the frayed edges of modern decadence: a party once thought endless in the twilight hours jolting to reality at the first light of dawn. A new construct of dressing emerges: familiar forms are stripped back, loosened and elongated with ease and elevated functionality. Traditional silhouettes are expertly dissolved for a contemporary take on formal codes. Materials are unrivaled: from plush leathers to Italian wool fabrics, to heavy silk twill and soft cottons.
Broad strokes of colour were the starting point; merlot reds and mustard yellows mix expertly with parakeet green and deep vatican blue between hints of nude and blush. Footwear, the keystone of ferragamo’s storied history, is the seed of a collection that was purposefully visualized from the ground up.
The women’s collection channels the refined ease of Ferragamo’s legacy lit up with vigorous freshness. Leather is the fundamental material, in calfskin coats with impossibly soft cashmere lining and pull-on knee-high boots innabuk andostrich. Trousers in buttery nappa leather and wool-silk blends are exactingly cropped to pull focus downward to the shoe.
Knits are designed to complement leather pieces: from cashmere sweater dresses to ponchos. Shirt-dresses are fabricated from the material of silk foulards sourced from the archive. Galvanized block heels molded in three heights — whose metallic glazing was finished in automobile factories — have been sourced from archival 1930s-era Ferragamo styles. Merino shearling knee-high boots are dyed green and red like 70s shag pile carpeting and lined internally with lusciously soft calfskin.
Menswear is an elevated take on the utilitarian: authentic pieces have been restudied and revised with innovative construction. Shirting in silk twill, wool, leather and shearling — featuring hand-stitched finishing by master tailors — forms the anchor of the collection, echoing the womenswear pieces. Layering brings fluidity to a winter wardrobe.
Cotton bonded rain coats are updated in a relaxed, streamlined silhouette; inside, printed silk lining introduces a sly hint of hidden pattern. An english donkey jacket, lengthened and oversized from the original, is designed in double wool- cashmere with leather shoulders.
The all-new ‘the studio bag’ in crocodile, ostrich, shearling and soft calf is in great company next to petite camera bags and roomy overnighters with printed lining taken from cravat fabrics. The doppio gancini, Ferragamo’s iconic logo, is represented in ornamental hardware: oversized on triple-cuoio soled men’s shoes and at the waist as women’s belts.
Individuality. Distinctiveness. The Ferragamo Spring/Summer 2018 collection by Fulvio Rigoni celebrates women, exalting their multi-faceted styles, personalities and beauty. Inspired by the uniqueness of the women who wore Salvatore Ferragamo shoes. Greta Garbo, Carmen Miranda, Brigitte Bardot, Eva Peron and Marilyn Monroe, to whom the legendary shoemaker contributed in defining their elegance and allure.
“No two women are the same – I wanted to celebrate women’s individuality and style, vivid colors – ever evolving femininity, ”states Fulvio Rigoni, Design Director for the Salvatore Ferragamo Women’s RTW Collections.
Similarly, the collection is hinged on great standalone pieces with assorted silhouettes, textures, prints and attitudes that lend themselves to be mixed-and-matched liberally, according to one’s personality. Drawing from a vast time frame – pencil silhouettes from the Twenties, fringes from the Thirties, Fifties’ full skirts, Seventies flares – each look is put together to tell a different story with femininity, quality and color as the common thread. Each one is infused with a surprise element, a modernist twist and highly-detailed touches that represent Ferragamo’s idea of “high tech, high craft.”
Quintessentially Ferragamo, the color palette features shots of geranium pink, emerald green, bright red and plum, tempered by pastels and white.
Textures play a key role. Tops and wide-legged pants with a mélange effect are made with crocheted chinè cotton; perforations are micro on suede and macro on hand-painted python for a semi-transparent look, at once unexpected and vivid.
Prints are exclusive and inventive. Striped graphic prints offer an unusual 3-D effect as if different fabrics were draped, layered and twisted while the florals include a maxi flower positioned on the side or a hazy, painterly all-overall motif, at times enriched with gauzy patterned overlays for an X-ray effect. They appear on dresses, tops and evening gowns, in varying lengths, often asymmetrical for a more fluid, relaxed and summery elegance.
High-skilled artisanship elevates the knitwear enriched with labor-intensive intarsia inserts.
The accessories add the finishing touch with small leather bags featuring gold and silver Gancini hardware evocative of costume jewelry like metal bracelet-looking handles, geometric totes and belt bags in rich choc brown. The footwear spans from embroidered stretch booties with Ferragamo’s signature “Flower” and “Cage” heel, to embellished flat sandals and cross-over mules.
Head-to-toe Individuality that crystalizes and respects the personality of each woman.
Guillaume Meilland pursued formal fashion studies in Paris in the 1990s, focusing on the rigor and precision of menswear design . Entering the luxury fashion industry in 2002, he collaborated on a number of prestigious menswear lines before in 2007 overseeing men’s sportswear design for Yves Saint Laurent. The following year he was named Senior Designer of Lanvin Menswear, a position he held for eight years before joining Salvatore Ferragamo in September 2016.
As Design Director of Men’s Ready-to-Wear, Ferragamo bestows Meilland with a unique history and ethos with which to further hone his vision for silhouette, construction, fabric and palette – in doing so, forging vibrant new codes in masculine dressing for the luxury Italian House, whether finest tailoring or sports-infused casualwear. “As a menswear designer,” says Meilland, “Ferragamo’s commitment to innovation and quality is particularly palpable; indeed, the notion of ‘Made In Italy’ feels like an exciting responsibility, and one I take very seriously as I integrate the experiences and ideas I’ve accumulated into this latest chapter for the House.”
Meilland continues: “No influence is more present for me than that of Salvatore Ferragamo himself. His restless pursuit of pioneering design, unrivalled craftsmanship and ‘the perfect fit’ feels more relevant today than ever before. As I discover quite how daring he was throughout his career, my greatest inspiration has been to imagine what forms, techniques, materials and philosophies Salvatore would be developing were he alive today. To honor his legacy feels like a wonderful challenge for someone whose own life has been steeped in both a deep respect for traditional craft and a passion for creating new sartorial expressions for the modern man.”
Geometry and dynamism. Clarity and rhythm. The Salvatore Ferragamo A/W 15-16 collection by Massimiliano Giornetti revolves around an idea of unaligned rigour.
The overall simplicity of lines is stirred by controlled asymmetries, brightened by the material tactility of the surfaces, the juxtapositions of textures and densities; multiplied by graphic elements, underlined by contrasts.
The search for haute craftsmanship highlights one of the leading traits of Ferragamo aesthetics, the expression of manual dexterity alongside inventiveness and intuition, rigorous method and experimental freedom.
The silhouette is defined and vertical, with high waistlines. The clean and affirmative shapes splinter and move, crossed by diagonal lines cutting and structuring the silhouette.
Overlapping wraparounds, clean cut necks, and essential sheaths create a simultaneous succession of themes and variations. Athletic stripes run along tight-knit jerseys.
Or become pleats on tweed skirts, dematerialized by the weightless chiffon intarsia that only glimmer when stirred. Contrasting stripes mark hemlines.
Small, asymmetric cloaks and clean-cut long tabards convey a quest for extreme simplification, accentuated and contradicted by playful, contrasting interiors. Resin buttons with concentric circumferences, both functional and decorative, punctuate the figure.
The definition of surfaces is also geometrical and structural: a patchwork of mink intarsia or textured embroidery for lean coats; coloured marquetry creates rhythmical abstractions on chiffon gowns.
The palette is concentrated and captivating, full of harmonious contrasts: black, deep green, brown, touches of yellow, ivory, red, fuchsia. Materials are particular and inviting: wool crêpe, double cashmere, stretch jersey.
The idea of multiple materials and precise design stands out in the rigorous yet eccentric accessories. The sandals with sculpted heels are realised with combinations of crocodile, python, and suede.
Shoulder bags with rounded flaps pair mink with matte or shiny leather. Little cross-body bags designed in fur accompany striped bucket bags that reveal flashes of contrasting lining.
Knotted bracelets in metal and mink and belts in twisted origami seal the search for a blurred and whimsical accuracy.
For the Salvatore Ferragamo Fall Winter 2015 collection, Massimiliano Giornetti explores tactile elegance to stimulate the senses. Different elements are mixed to create a fabulous design: a fairy tale story made up of fantasy and creativity.
His narrative framework, fashioned by an intriguing language of symbols, animal motifs, stitches, and ties, is combined into a pristine men’s wardrobe.
The centre of this universe is filled with positive resilience and virile sensuality. Silhouettes are soft with relaxed and voluminous profiles. Surfaces owe their treatments to a skill of concentration and precision. Key pieces lay the blueprint for his wardrobe: tailored suiting, double- breasted jackets, blousons and outerwear including duffel coats.
The tailoring is neat and light. Against this backdrop are unexpected flashes of surprise; multi-coloured embroidery and leather patchwork create surreal animal motifs: zebras, flamingos, monkeys. Knitwear masters woven motifs intertwined with stitching or is intensely finished in lightweight treatments.
Striking three-dimensional coats are worn with cable-knit pullovers and big scarves: bold and ever-present, materials are central as the true protagonists. Unshakeable, traditional leathers and fabrics are permanently altered, transformed by artisanal handwork.
An emphasis on experimental craft techniques underlines and updates one of Ferragamo’s founding principles, a unique vision transcending time, with a foundation built by invention and innovation, rigorous methods and free associations.
The colour palette: woody and nocturnal. Shades of dark green, chestnut, deep red, black and melange grey are lit up by bright, decorative details.
The accessories are melded together, reflecting the intentional, unusual combinations and unexpected pairings portrayed throughout the collection.
Crocodile lace-ups and boots are reinforced at the toes and heels with natural leather emphasized by visible stitching; casting the illusion of blending footwear, the accumulative effect highlighted by contrasting textures.
Generously-sized duffels in various materials carry the motif, reworking Salvatore Ferragamo’s original bag for the modern gentleman.
The story is studded with miniature jewels in a decorative, narrative gesture where bronze and horn claws are used as buckles and brooches.
For Spring Summer 2015, the iconic facets of Salvatore Ferragamo are reimagined by Massimiliano Giornetti. By playing with textures – handled, cut, frayed, and melted – the collection experiments with craftsmanship and handmade uniqueness. Materials entertain pattern with imperfect perfection, evolving Ferragamo design, creating an original personality. Always seeking balance, the 3D allure of surfaces is expanded to showcase the purity of precise and vibrant tailoring.
The silhouette is elegant with an almost invisible waistline, while meticulous lines flow around the body closely. Knitwear dresses defined by small ribs and crossed by meticulous bands form a progression of density. Tops and skirts are married by sculptured details possible only through the skill of the atelier while more compact surfaces present transitions of transparencies. Pouch coats and short capes fastened at the waist with reptile leather belts are crafted from structural woven fabrics that also remember Salvatore’s original use of materials mixed with python or skin interspersed with woven snakeskin. Materials with an organic effect on the exterior contrast with the bold sparkling satin interior linings that decorate garments. Highlighted pieces of the collection play with the unseen: halter necks reveal the shoulders and voluminous trousers glimpse the calf.
The colour effects of murano glass are utilized and transformed into jacquard prints on overcoats that create form in the vertical. Animal-print motifs and designs iconic to the House of Ferragamo recall the colours of reptiles which naturally merge with the geometrical patterns in a magmatic process of graphic and chromatic fusion. The collection is permeated with warmth: capturing the magic of transforming matter, emblematic of the process in creating Murano glass. Natural colours are broken by sudden bright flecks and metal veins that underscore a metamorphic quality.
The vertical profile of the figure is enhanced by bold wedge heels, a design that remembers Salvatore’s original rainbow sandal with elements of early 1940s, this time modernized in monochromatic palettes reinforced by the luxurious details of tiny chains and exotic skins. Handbags, a tribute to Ferragamo’s handcrafted elegance, come in the form of doctor bags referencing the use of mixed materials, chain shoulder clutch handbags with geometrical inserts, and mat tote bags with polychrome glass handles.
Murano glass makes literal use of the Italian craft with bracelets, chains and clutches hand blown by craftsmen.
Night-time in a buzzing metropolis: a frenzy of pulsating lights and their reflections in the mobile obscurity of wet asphalt.
The accelerated rhythm of his nervous steps crossing the city.
He’s a dynamic man, his silhouette the product of overlaying fabrics. Nothing is as it appears: his style is that of a chameleon, displaying innate sense of style and independence of thought. The urban face of modernity: reversible garments, modular and multi-purposed. Leather is rendered “technical” by rubberization.
A new hybrid, redefining the aesthetics of modern luxury by associating the idea of functionality with the value of exclusivity. Tailoring becomes absolutely technical.
The reversible pea-coat is made of leather backed by felt, the blouson is double-sided nappa with a removable shearling lining, while the rain cape has been enriched by a sumptuous lining of cashmere cloth with leather trimming.
His eyewear is a mixture of different materials: rubberized plastic, metal and tortoise shell, perfectly matching his ‘rubberized’ metal watch, high chronographic performance yet with a sporty attitude.
The knitwear is a triumph of 3D texturing, very high collars and striking patterns. Tactile sensations are created by high-tech neoprene, together with wool and silk yarn, by layering knitwear and with the reassuring touch of baize.
The colours of the collection converge with the intensity of sheer black, saturating a range of grey such as Gun Metal and Storm, blue hues such as Blue Graphite and Midnight Blue, green tones like Night Green and Hurry Green, and ultimately Black Bean. Isolated flashes of colour maximize effect: azure, ice and Ferragamo red.
A detailed process of creative experimentation: the new derby, the ankle boot and the mid-boot, accented with two-tone multi-layer rubber soles, their “tank tread” designed for perfect stability. Exceptional elegance on the urban asphalt.
This pure experimentation is applied to bags, crossing the border that divides craftsmanship and technology. This transformational vortex applies sophisticated new textures to leather, as shown with the soft bi-material (rubberized and natural) duffle bag, the multi-purpose tote with contrasting pipping, and the backpack, a masculine key piece with generous volume.
Complete innovation shapes modern luxury with design that weaves together culture and modernity at infinite levels to create the Salvatore Ferragamo Autumn-Winter 2013-2014 Collection by creative director Massimiliano Giornetti.
Florence, June 2012 – Fifty years after the death of Marilyn Monroe, Salvatore Ferragamo inaugurated on June 19th, a retrospective dedicated to the actress.
“Marilyn,” the new exhibition at the Salvatore Ferragamo Museum, was officially opened to the public in the evening with an exclusive cocktail held Palazzo Spini Ferroni, with participants as Rose Byrne, Anna Sophia Robb, Violante Placido, Valeria Solarino, Carla Fracci, the Florentine authorities socialites and international press.
At the event guests were greeted by hostesses wearing the famous white dress from the film “The Seven year Itch.” Awaiting them inside, a cocktail event by Federico Salza, who for the event created an the cupcake covered with white frosting and scarlet kiss lips inspired by the actress.
The splendid setting of Palazzo Spini Ferroni was adorned with red roses, flowers loved by Marilyn, so much that after her death, Joe DiMaggio had a bouquet delivered to her grave three times a week for 20 years.
The exhibition, which explores the timeless legend of Marilyn Monroe and her very complex and discussed personality, will be open at the Salvatore Ferragamo Museum until January 2013 and contains numerous models of shoes created especially for her by Salvatore Ferragamo, the costumes of her most famous personal interpretations and clothes coming from all private collections.