#madlock Dsquared2 Men’s FW 2014
He’s a bad boy and it’s time to pay his dues. On the inside, confusion ruled by discipline with a glimpse into insanity. It’s a thug’s life, be tough, stay on the straight and narrow until parole.
Through the mad eyes of this bad boy, Dsquared2 takes inspiration for its fall winter 2014 collection from the unique world of a correctional institute. The unconventional influence lends motifs, colors and attire of life behind bars, via the uniforms of the inmates and those who patronize them: prison guards, psychiatrists, priests and lawyers.
The style story that unfolds begins with a simple cotton tunic and pants – mandatory clothes of someone being committed. Intense prison orange – the hue that makes escape difficult — quilted nylon teamed with worsted wool jackets fitted with zippers that converts into a new “pieces”.
Dsquared2’s DNA, mastery in denim and leather, are key to the hard knock life looks. Shades of indigo and black denim are given bleached out, destroyed and ripped treatments, cut into a jumpsuit, or straightjacket-style jackets, some trimmed with buckles, and paired with curved baggy jeans.
On the inside, clothes are a size too big. Taking cue from this look, the silhouette is bigger, but reinforced with structure through heavy masculine fabrics. Double-faced felted wools make sleek unlined patch pocket coats. Jean jackets are bonded with felted wool. Raw cut black and white long leather jackets take on a rounded fullness with spongy jersey bonded interiors.
Leather and denim are patchwork accents on classic wool suiting, in sleeves, front panels and waistbands. Rough boy denim is mixed with elegant pieces, a brushed wool teddy bear tobacco car coat, another long coat in graphic panels of Bordeaux, white and black silk and wool, and cashmere knits.
Rigid shapes crafted from black and distressed gray leather, the doctors style bags are matched with thick black squared eyeglasses of the institution’s psychoanalysts. Ankle boots are heavy duty style signatures of the inmates and their guards. With rounded toes in black, ochre and prison yellow leather and layered leather or rubber soles. Knitted short tuque hats add a tough guy attitude.
“WHAT IS TRUTH?” Asks Johnny Cash.
“DON’T LIE” – “I AM WHAT I AM” Answers the Vampire Weekend.
Music as inspiration. Songs hung on a mood-board.
“BEAUTY IS TRUTH”
Beauty and truth implied as looking at oneself in the mirror and reviewing what has been done up until now.
The iconic MSGM images are processed. Almost ruined, and become new images printed on t-shirts, sweatshirts and are also used as mohair intarsias.
The look worn by the models on the runway is photographed and printed on garments.
Beauty, as a concept and an inspiration.
“TRUTH IS BEAUTY”
Be frank. Be honest.
“I AM WHAT I AM” – FASHION NEEDS THIS.
The page on which to write this new story is made of marble. And marble is the new obsession.
“WHAT IS TRUTH?”
Messages and words on grosgrain, poplin, sports jersey. Phrases and poems about love. Words stolen from Sylvia Plath.
Everything is black on white. Sometimes on mélange gray. Like a piece of torn paper that becomes a shirt or a sweatshirt.
LOVE – FASHION NEEDS LOVE.
“YOUR LOVE IS MINE” on batiste.
“LOVE IS ART” on t-shirts.
“THE EYES CAN SEE WHAT THE MOUTH CANNOT SAY” as a new detail.
And the new logo craze ‘MSGM – F / W 2014’. The brand and the season.
Plus checks, flannels and cottons. Bombers and parkas. Everything is over-size.
Skinny pants and slim-line tuxedo jackets are the new tailored looks. Shirts with prints, logos or embroidery are worn like sweatshirts.
Gold and silver break up colors. There’s a lot of black. And a lot of white.
THE MOST IMPORTANT THING IS THE MESSAGE – “THAT IS ALL”
“I’m a lover of fashion, married to fashion, and a fashion traitor. I express myself while I’m designing a garment, I write it, I write fashion more than I draw it.
There’s a lot of contrast in fashion, because we live in an era of rock, of airplanes, of strong emotions.
And fashion has to communicate, communicate, communicate all this emotion.
How I’d love to write a song about fashion. Because in the end, if I hadn’t done fashion I would have been a musician” – Hugues Le Bars.
THE CONTEMPORARY MINIMAL DANDY
White shirt, black tie and tartan: these are the constants that define the contemporary dandy at Corneliani, a man who constructs his elegant style with his intellect, a man for whom good taste demands continual exposure to new cultural inspirations.
Luxury is not an end in itself. Rather, it announces itself, direct and insouciant, in the premium materials that make up a wardrobe of understated sophistication, where deepest blue and black dominate an evergreen colour palette relieved by the many shades of grey and natural hues, freshened by a refined dash of moss green.
Sergio Corneliani, Creative Director at the Mantuan maison, has dreamed up a contemporary dandy who is elegant and discreetly knows it. Time languidly spent in literary salons putting on a confident style has given way to the complexities of the metropolis and the most modern ways – and means – of communicating, for a dynamic, fluid and efficient everyday lifestyle.
Hence, the jacket sits easy at the waist, and the cut of the shoulder is soft and natural. The elongated silhouette is tempered by the crisp but short trousers, without the afterthought of a turn-up.
The coat is as fulsomely long as ever, with a half-belt or to wear with a belt. The clean, minimal design of the biker-style jacket with its matte-finish crocodile stands out, creating an unostentatious matte look, reflected in the ample bags to be carried in the hand. Nor does the mink add pointless pomp, shaved as if to mimic super-soft velvet adorning jackets with clean lines or zip-up heavy jackets.The sportiest garments tend to the subtly generous in size, evoking geometries and patterns on a square-shape theme.
The strictly cashmere suit is impeccable in the ash-grey fine Prince of Wales check, brown bird’s eye, or the sobriety of solid dark blue and jet black. And the knitwear keeps evolving with a wealth of original variants: in the sleeves of the jersey parka, and in a highly desirable variety of leather or sheepskin short jackets right up to the cardigan / heavy jacket in an easy Black Watch tartan and the jumper with jacquard effect courtesy of interwoven leather threads.
The collection expertly underlines the value of sartorial savoir-faire with an innovative twist, where the blue-green tartan pattern – which finds expression in the overcoat and the jacket, in the trousers, the heavy jacket and even the bag inserts – becomes the iconic motif of the autumn/winter 2014 wardrobe by Corneliani, the exponent of a style imbued with the power of tradition for over half a century.