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IRIS VAN HERPEN HAUTE COUTURE FALL WINTER 2019-20 COLLECTION – PARIS FASHION WEEK

Iris van Herpen Haute Couture Fashion Show FW 2019 Paris
Iris van Herpen Haute Couture Fashion Show FW 2019-2020

 

‘HYPNOSIS’

For this collection, the designer finds inspiration in the hypnotic manifolds within our ecologies through the work of American artist Anthony Howe. The three-dimensional cyclical harmony of Howe’s kinetic sculptures is the wind beneath the wings of this collection. Howe’s spherical ‘Omniverse’ sculpture explores our relationship with nature and intertwines with infinite expansion and contraction, expressing a universal life cycle. The meditative movement of the ‘Omniverse’ serves as a portal for the collection and the models, encircling a state of hypnosis.

The collaboration with Howe evolves ‘in an ecstasy of attentiveness’ through the symbiosis of all the elements of nature that are dependent on each other. As one of the key pieces of the collection, the finale ‘Infinity’ dress comes alive on the breath of a finely balanced mechanism. An engineered skeleton of aluminium, stainless steel and bearings is embroidered with a delicate layering of feathers in cyclical flight; revolving around their own centre. ‘Hypnosis’ reflects the beauty and complexity of our environment, exploring the patterns and structures within its fragile landscape.

‘The ‘Hypnosis’ collection is a hypnotic visualisation of nature’s tapestry, the symbiotic cycles of our biosphere that interweave the air, land, and oceans. It also reflects the ongoing dissection of the rhythms of life and resonates with the fragility within these interwoven worlds.’ – Iris van Herpen.

The ‘Hypnosis’ collection consists of 19 silhouettes that flow deceptively in transparencies. Multilayered around the body, they revive the ancient silk moiré weaving technique that links to the illusory nature of human perception. The ‘Epicycle’ looks are constructed by multi-layering luminous organza spheres, which challenge the relationship between surface and substance through illusory patterns that wrap into each other infinitely. The ‘Suminagashi’ garments which reflect the venerable art of Japanese floating ink on water, are lasercut into liquid lines of dyed silk, heat bonded onto transparent tulle to seemingly and seamlessly flow over the skin.

The ‘Dichotomy’ looks are laser- printed, heat-bonded and lasercut into contra-positive waves. Each dissected curve is then pressed onto hundreds of ripple-like panels that ebb and flow in an exquisite swell of meticulously hand stitched silk organza. The ‘Hypnosis’ technique, developed in collaboration with Professor Phillip Beesley involves ten of thousands of plottercut mini ripples that continuously dissect the dress through each movement of the body, revealing skin in between the whimsical spheroid patterns.

The printed duchesse-satin is plottercut into thousands of 0.8 mm exquisite waves that each are interlinked, designed to move faster than the eye can follow.

 

FW 2019-20 Iris van Herpen Haute Couture Fashion Show
Model Fashion Show Iris van Herpen Haute Couture
FW 2019-20 Fashion Show Iris van Herpen Haute Couture
Fall 2019-20 Womenswear Iris van Herpen Haute Couture
Winter 2019-20 Fashion Trends Iris van Herpen Haute Couture
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Sat, July 6 2019 » Fashion Blog

ULYANA SERGEENKO HAUTE COUTURE FALL WINTER 2019-20 COLLECTION – PARIS FASHION WEEK

Ulyana Sergeenko Haute Couture Fashion Show FW 2019 Paris
Ulyana Sergeenko Haute Couture Fashion Show FW 2019-2020

 

Ulyana Sergeenko has carved her own special niche within the world of Couture. A passionate storyteller, she conceives each collection as a fully formed tale. Story after story, season after season, her heroine changes and evolves, keeping intact an unmistakable wit and joyous femininity, drawing a glamorous map of references and inspirations.

For Fall-Winter 2019/2020, opening once again the magic box of fantasy, Ulyana Sergeenko brings her heroine on an enriching, exotic journey around the world. One decided overnight, grabbing a few belongings and hitting the road. Along the way, the heroine swaps her things for local artifacts. Gradually, her wardrobe bursts with colorful pieces from different cultures, which she mixes freely. We meet her in the souk of Samarkand, Uzbekistan, right in the middle of her journey, free and happy.

She is wrapped in a multicolored fur coat, and wears trousers; her local Ikat robe is embroidered with crystals and colored stones. On warm days, she layers weightless dresses made of mesh and transparent organza and swarming with singular patters. Her capes are embroidered with the motifs of local carpets.

As usual, she favors a shapely silhouette with a nipped waist, and is all for a soulful touch of craft: floral ornament applied by hand and then embroidered; bomber jackets and skirts made to resemble the Uzbekistan kourpeshkas (national pillows), with hanging beaded tassels; intricate crochet and beading. Images of herbs and flowers are blurred, following the Ikat technique.

Precious and tactile materials such as silk, atlas, sateen, chiffon, jacquard silk, lurex, crochet, taffeta, patent leather come in a palette of black, gold, green, purple and blue, interspersed with shades of pink – from powdery and pastel to electric to deep.

Accessories homage the Uzbekistan culture. Bags are inspired by the local torba, the sack tied with a gold cord, and are made in leather, taffeta or velvet. There are small knitted bags, and bags with long straps made of gold coins. Jewels, gathered along the journey, cover the outfits. Pointy mules with lavish bows and small heels and classic high court shoes in bright colors, devised with Charlotte Olympia, complete the image.

Samarkand, wrapped in romantic secrets, bombarded with the smells and colors of the souks, is the perfect place for the Ulyana Sergeenko woman. Like in an Eastern fairy tale, as she travels she meets happiness and love, enjoying the moment.

 

FW 2019-20 Ulyana Sergeenko Haute Couture Fashion Show
Model Fashion Show Ulyana Sergeenko Haute Couture
FW 2019-20 Fashion Show Ulyana Sergeenko Haute Couture
Fall 2019-20 Womenswear Ulyana Sergeenko Haute Couture
Winter 2019-20 Fashion Trends Ulyana Sergeenko Haute Couture
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Sat, July 6 2019 » Fashion Blog

SCHIAPARELLI HAUTE COUTURE FALL WINTER 2019-20 COLLECTION – PARIS FASHION WEEK

Schiaparelli Haute Couture Fashion Show FW 2019 Paris
Schiaparelli Haute Couture Fashion Show FW 2019-2020

 

Transformations

At the end of last November, I was asked for a proposal reimagining the house of Schiaparelli.

At the time, I had just left a job at the house where I’d spent my entire ten-year-long career. It was in that job that I discovered who I was as a designer, but also who I was as a person, as an adult, as a New Yorker, as a friend.

As I began thinking about what my vision of Schiaparelli might be, I was also thinking about who I myself might be, because I didn’t know anymore. For the past decade, I had been one person, one kind of artist. Now I had the chance to become someone else, something else. Every morning, I walked from my apartment in downtown Manhattan to the eastern edge of Chinatown. My walk took me from one world into another, and as I walked, I could watch the moneyed, polished New York of the twenty-first century slip away, to be replaced by one much older, as boutiques gave way to fruit stalls and cafes to little storefronts selling hardware and tea and dumplings. It was as if I was heading into my future by venturing into the past.

At the time, I was renting a skinny, shoebox-shaped studio cut out of my friend’s larger third-floor atelier, where she made hats. For the month of December, I sat at my drafting table, wearing gloves and a hood (the heater didn’t work, or not well enough), listening to the rumble of the M train rattling over the Manhattan Bridge past my one window, and sketching. I thought often about the nature of creativity, and about how an artist forms his aesthetic only when he’s able to retreat to the purest, most childlike part of himself, the place in which nothing can be wrong and nothing can be bad, because everything exists in the realm of possibility. That’s what becoming an artist demands. Staying an artist means trying to hold on to that exuberance, that naivete, that sense of wonder. Cynicism, world-weariness, snobbery: Those are the artist’s enemies. Creativity only moves forward if you can let go of everything you thought you knew.

This collection is the story of that December, and what I dreamt up in that little studio. It’s also about what I learned there: That a life of perpetual transformation isn’t the safest or easiest one, but it is the most exhilarating.

Daniel Roseberry
July 1, 2019
Paris

 

FW 2019-20 Schiaparelli Haute Couture Fashion Show
Model Fashion Show Schiaparelli Haute Couture
FW 2019-20 Fashion Show Schiaparelli Haute Couture
Fall 2019-20 Womenswear Schiaparelli Haute Couture
Winter 2019-20 Fashion Trends Schiaparelli Haute Couture
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Sat, July 6 2019 » Fashion Blog

1017 ALYX 9SM SPRING SUMMER 2020 COLLECTION – PARIS FASHION WEEK

Alyx Fashion Show SS 2020 Paris
Alyx Fashion Show SS 2020

 

BABY-X

(S20-ALYX-AAM)
(S20-ALYX-AAW)

We engage with systems, scales, and soul. Our commitment to defining the contemporary evolves as a synthesis of moments.

Pliancy is a strength. Enforcing our belief in the value of the human hand, Alyx instrumentalises tradition as technology. Unifying sustainable processes and experimentation, the collection energises affinities between construction, craft, and emotion.

Our technical lexicon is a practical result of attentive, applied thought. In collaboration with Italian tailors, we have established artisanal vocabularies that unite traditional expertise and artistry with new techniques in construction. The individuality of the artwork is found through the hand of the artist.

Knit technologies reframe the relationship between high-performance and comfort, leveraging 3-D printing in a seamless, almost waste-free process. A combination of hand-applied dye and fabric treatments expand the dimension of the collection, and bonded leather establishes a robust material language.
A sculptural detail by Antonia Evans translates a distorted natural form into hardware cast in metal and resin.

Aligning hardware and utility across all categories and collaborations, this collection takes as its drive the manifold present. Evolution is a process of expansion and refinement.

BONDING
We have spliced the natural characteristics of leather with new technologies. Bonding leather to Dyneema®, the world’s strongest fibre, we have developed a muscular material with a unique structural silhouette. The near waterless dyeing processes of ECCO leather DriTanTM underlines our pursuit of high ecological standards and expands the spectrum of colours to our leathers.

QUANTAM DYE
Developed with Italian artisans, a combination of garment dye and fabric treatments shape a multi-step procedure that results in uniquely dimensioned textures and colours.

AMF
Details and hardware use raw material sourced from AMF, an entirely sustainable factory. Their commitment to sustainable practice incorporates automated production processes, the use of safe chemicals, and the elimination of waste from natural resources.

SUSTAINABILITY
Transparency is central in understanding the cycle of a garment. We continue to amplify our role in and obligation to progressive sustainable processes. With Majocchi, we are focused on radical reductions in water waste. With Recover, recycled nylon, AMF, and ECCO leather DriTanTM we present new textiles embedded in stringently recycled materials.

 

SS 2020 Alyx Fashion Show
Model Fashion Show Alyx
SS 2020 Fashion Show Alyx
Spring 2020 Menswear Alyx
Summer 2020 Fashion Trends Alyx
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Sun, June 30 2019 » Fashion Blog

KENZO SPRING SUMMER 2020 COLLECTION – PARIS FASHION WEEK

Kenzo Fashion Show SS 2020 Paris
Kenzo Fashion Show SS 2020

 

For our ultimate collection for KENZO, the Spring-Summer 2020 collection, we looked to the home of our founder Kenzo Takada, and more specifically to the surrounding seas of Japan where groups of strong, tenacious and modern-day super-heroes plunge daily
to retrieve treasures at the bottom of the ocean.

The Ama are groups of Japanese female free divers, who, for over 2000 years have dived to the ocean floor to forage for seafood such as shrimp, urchins or even pearls for their communities. They train from their beginnings as teenagers, taught by their predecessors who can dive well into their 70s.

Due to breath training, Ama can stay underwater for significant amounts of time in one go. Over time their numbers have declined, and these intrepid fisherwomen can now only be found sporadically in pockets along the Japanese coastlines. Withstanding harsh and sometimes freezing temperatures, they have become known as the last mermaids.

Our collections are a tapestry of elements combining traditionally marine associated garments with modern and technical diving gear. For women, neoprene suiting in orange, violet and black are juxtaposed against crushed wet-look jersey tops and dresses. Skirts in mermaid jacquard linens are adorned with pearl buttons while nylon tops in vivid colors of corals have sleeves rolled up to the shoulder.

Transparent suiting complements the prints of shrimp, mermaids and sea lilies. High waisted trousers feature an assembly of embroideries, reminiscent of treasures amassed while diving. Woven ikats feature on either dresses, tops for women or as panelling on shirts and trousers for men. Tailoring in liquid viscose, sun-bleached denims and ikat prints also straddle both collections.

For menswear, hardy rubberised outerwear appears in orange and violet while Hawaïan shirts abound with prints of sea lilies or urchins. Solarised cotton sweaters in indigo or dark greys walk along side tailored jackets with shawl collars and rough edges. Jackets and coats in summer linens feature sailor collars and shorts are made of high frequency lazer-cut nylons. Suits are cropped and boxy and classic ‘K’ shirts feature net panels color blocked in lilac and orange. Net prints appear in dégradé pigments on printed cotton.

In our Fall-Winter 2019 collection for KENZO, we introduced a new bag, ‘The Tali’. We revisit the Tali for Spring-Summer 2020, updating it within the themes of the new collection and we introduce a new smaller version, The Mini Tali. Skins of viper snake resemble fish scales. Dégradés recall the approaching light seen from the bottom of the ocean floor.

Net straps and bumbags mirror the belt pouches used by the Ama to retrieve their rewards. Sunglasses are high performance and feature solarised lenses to protect. For women, traditional Japanese Okobo sandals in the sea-lily print walk alongside scuba sock sandals and a new unisex sneaker style, the scuba inspired K-Wave for men and women.

Carol Lim & Humberto Leon

 

SS 2020 Kenzo Fashion Show
Model Fashion Show Kenzo
SS 2020 Fashion Show Kenzo
Spring 2020 Menswear Kenzo
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Thu, June 27 2019 » Fashion Blog

LANVIN SPRING SUMMER 2020 MEN’S COLLECTION – PARIS FASHION WEEK

Lanvin Fashion Show SS 2020 Paris
Lanvin Fashion Show SS 2020

 

PLEIN SOLEIL

Imagining his own Utopian summer, a sensual and indolent season of southbound cruises and explosions of color, Bruno Sialelli’s Lanvin spring / summer 2020 collection ‘Plein Soleil’ is an ode to idleness summer days.

Despite reminiscences of the 50s and 70s – of Marella Agnelli, Lee Radziwill and Bianca Jagger when the ocean was a second skin, the sun a living God, and incessant voyages were de rigour for jet set – the house of Lanvin sets sail on a new journey into the future.

The heart of Lanvin now beats to the tempo of an open era, where gender fluidity and diversity are part of the usual vocabulary as the mix of genres in forty-five menswear and fifteen womenswear silhouettes attest. Sailing between Taormina, Capri and the Greek islands, Sialelli diverts the codes of his “catamaran bourgeoisie” mischievously by opting for a form of naivety in masculinity.

Charming boys wear silk cardigans or oiled short coats with boy scout cotton shorts and gladiator shoes; cargo pants and cross jackets with oversized sailor collars; tunics and bags in XXL nautical pennants are playfully redesigned for the occasion where the emblems of the house – JL initials and daisies – make a discreet appearance in these Lanvin flags. Introduced in Bruno’s first collection for the house, the figure of Babar reappears as a reassuring and twisted fetish of childhood.

Lanvin blue is the main colour for summer. The historical shade of the house (Jeanne Lanvin worked with a palette of 18 different tones) is paired with the colours of the sun and sand – ochres, oranges, tobaccos and yellows. Sialelli looked to the archives for outerwear tailoring – blue wool gazar duffle coats inspired by Jeanne Lanvin couture opera coats – while suits come in striped seersucker or with all-over sequins, effortless chic without dressing up.

Accessories slip naturally into the collection. A sailor’s bag made of canvas, faded by the sea spray, and another in duvet down – as spectacular as they are ingenious – are essential companions to the bag of the season, the Hook Bag. Adorned with delicate leather marquetry and hand-painted hot air balloons, this season’s Hook Bags telescope between authenticity and refinement, between sensuality of the street and ultra-elegance.

Art deco pendants borrow from an art deco motif found in Jeanne Lanvin’s bathroom; malachite crocodile shaped cuffs shine brightly between travel inspired oversized charm necklaces with miniature suitcases and explorer tools.

Following in the steps of Jeanne Lanvin, a fashion pioneer who explored the world in her time – Venice, Toledo, Egypt and the Borromean Islands – Lanvin girls head out from Capri to Goa in long, silk, psychedelic printed dresses giving an Indian allure to the Lanvin women’s silhouettes. Like Lanvin men, they adopt a relaxed and luxurious approach, effortless and refined.

 

SS 2020 Lanvin Fashion Show
Model Fashion Show Lanvin
SS 2020 Fashion Show Lanvin
Spring 2020 Menswear Lanvin
Summer 2020 Fashion Trends Lanvin
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Thu, June 27 2019 » Fashion Blog

HERMÈS SPRING SUMMER 2020 MEN’S COLLECTION – PARIS FASHION WEEK

Hermès Fashion Show SS 2020 Paris

Hermès © Copyright 2019

HE STRIDES THROUGH THE SUMMER WITH CONFIDENCE AND LIGHTNESS

His summery nonchalance flourishes in ample and generous volumes, which convey a sense of happy freedom. Fluid and airy materials make him feel laid-back and some pieces are even reversible. Here, the emblematic materials are reinvented in total simplicity with ingenuity and know-how.

The silk scarves, in their original tones or overdyed, are assembled in cheerful and relaxed configurations on jackets and shirts. His journey leaves the memory of a relaxed and spontaneous silhouette. Mint, aqua, plum, and bubble gum pink are the invigorating and colourful flavours of his summer.

COLOURS

Khaki, mint, celadon, lagoon, aqua, plum, bubble gum pink, tobacco, rust, corn, desert, sand, silex, hemp, foam, white.

LINES AND FABRICS

Blousons with ribbing and straight blousons with knit collars, coats in rubberised lambskin, contrasted lining and waxed edges. Blousons with V neck in knit, sweatshirts with hood and over-shirts with short sleeves in velvet lambskin and smooth lambskin inlays.

Straight blousons with detachable collar, zipped coats with zig-zag topstitching and pleated trousers, belt with snap-on tabs in Étrivière lambskin. Sweatshirts and jogging trousers in fleecy metis goatskin. Parkas and windbreakers with zipped high collar in crinkled technical canvas with checks or in water-repellent Toilight with mini-gingham or checks.

Zipped over-shirts with short sleeves and sweatshirts in braided cotton voile. Zipped parkas and sweatshirts with hood in technical cotton gabardine with zig-zag topstitching. Zipped sweatshirts with hood and cardigans in water-repellent cotton weave in striped Ottoman. Windbreakers with zipped high collar in raised technical corduroy cotton.

Three-button shirt-jackets, zipped blousons and large shirts in silk scarf patchwork, original version or overdyed. Three-button jackets in water-repellent Toilight with mini-gingham or checks, or reversible checks / mini-gingham. Three-button jackets in crepe cotton serge. Three-button jackets, double patch pockets, in crepe cotton serge or crinkled checks.

Oversize pullovers and cardigans in cotton and cashmere, embroidered with lambskin. High neck pullovers in cashmere and silk, été indien drawing. Tee-shirts with Tunisian collar and cardigans in crepe cotton with offset colours. Étude pour un carré tee-shirts with short sleeves in cashmere. Tank tops in cotton crepe.

Shirts with baseball neckline, shirts with pockets and drawstring high collar, blouson-shirts with short sleeves and transformable collar, in plain cotton poplin. Collarless shirts, with blouson collar or baseball neckline in crepon cotton.

Large shirts with supple collar or high collar in cotton poplin with stick stripes, in washed silk or in graph cotton weave. Shirts with drawstring high collar in graph cotton weave. Tee-shirts in cotton jersey and unframed overdyed silk scarf.

Large trousers with double tour belt in cotton drill, in cotton serge, in stretch cotton serge or in denim. Pleated trousers and belt with snap-on tabs in cotton drill, in cotton serge or in technical cotton gabardine. Trousers with elastic waist in cotton serge, in crackled or striped cotton poplin. Pleated Bermuda shorts in cotton serge.

 

Hermès Fashion Show SS 2020
SS 2020 Hermès Fashion Show
Model Fashion Show Hermès
SS 2020 Fashion Show Hermès
Spring 2020 Menswear Hermès
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Thu, June 27 2019 » Fashion Blog

BALMAIN HOMME SPRING SUMMER 2020 COLLECTION – PARIS FASHION WEEK

Balmain Fashion Show SS 2020 Paris
Balmain Fashion Show SS 2020
SS 2020 Balmain Fashion Show
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SS 2020 Fashion Show Balmain
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Thu, June 27 2019 » Fashion Blog

SIES MARJAN SPRING SUMMER 2020 MEN’S COLLECTION – PARIS FASHION WEEK

Sies Marjan Fashion Show SS 2020 Paris
Sies Marjan Fashion Show SS 2020
SS 2020 Sies Marjan Fashion Show
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SS 2020 Fashion Show Sies Marjan
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Thu, June 27 2019 » Fashion Blog

GMBH SPRING SUMMER 2020 COLLECTION – PARIS FASHION WEEK

Gmbh Fashion Show SS 2020 Paris
Gmbh Fashion Show SS 2020
SS 2020 Gmbh Fashion Show
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Thu, June 27 2019 » Fashion Blog

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