For Diesel Black Gold’s Fall-Winter 2015 collection, creative director Andreas Melbostad conjured up a singular look inspired by the different, contrasting forces behind the multifarious British tradition.
References to England’s impeccable tailoring heritage are combined with the subversive, irreverent influences of the country’s iconic youth subcultures.
Giving cohesiveness to the collection, disparate elements are blended together and unified by an intense research on materials and techniques.
Textures are at the core of the lineup. The brand’s iconic denim pieces are washed, coated, distressed, patched to obtain the same rich hands of traditional tailoring fabrics, such as tweeds, checks, tartans, houndstooth and Prince of Wales. These are worked for signature outerwear pieces, such as a Donegal tweed trench with denim details and industrial zippers.
Tartan wool pants with applied pockets and zips are over dyed to get a darker, faded effect. Their punkish attitude contrasts with the sartorial sensibility of a coat and a blazer layered over a utilitarian nylon zippered vest and a crispy checked shirt.
Military references run through the collection injecting a sense of strong, assertive masculinity into wool jackets and coats, embellished with patches, chains, safety pins for a customized look.
Traditional British school uniforms are re-interpreted through the collections’ signature irreverent lens. A rebellious attitude informs striped blazers and rugby sweatshirts, adding graphic tones to the the palette of black, blue, indigo, charcoal, sage, military green and red.
Missoni Men’s F/W 2015 collection draws inspiration from the artist, both as muse and expressive force as he travels along the Trans-Siberian-Manchurian rail line; a steel-tracked metaphor of man’s longing for discovery and adventure.
Steadily gaining momentum, our artist sits in idle observance as a melange of imagery swiftly passes before his eyes. The piercing wilderness of Russian, Mongolian and Chinese terrains, indigenous tribes and eclectic cultures blur one into the other and arouse his senses.
Immersed in this epic journey, his noble function is to give form and cohesion to this convergence of unrelenting stimuli and unrestrained emotions. In transit even while standing still, this collection captures the romantic essence of the artist and his experiences, exhibiting a certain painterly dynamism in static motion.
The Missoni man is romantically draped in softly tailored and oversized pieces executed in chunky cashmere, fluid cashmere-silk blends, felted lambswool, feathery, speckled wools and artfully crafted pelage-like yarns that luxuriously weather the Siberian climate while respecting the traditional fibers of the regions.
Somber hues of black, forest green, auburn, mineral brown, claret camel, ink and pewter reflect the passing landscape of imposing mountains, wild rivers, thick forests, and lush fields while strokes of bright amber, bamboo green, poppy red, Prussian blue and cornflower mimic the random spattering of distant villages and the colorful and graphic dress of their inhabitants.
Key elements to this season’s collection include: double-breasted coats, degradè-checked suits and oversized, loom-knit coats that have been wefted with either space-dyed tape to achieve an ikat effect or compact, wool-boucle yarn for a toweling effect—all created on Missoni’s exclusive, heritage looms in Sumirago; plaid, cashmere shirts that liken artists’ smocks and customary, regional tunics; macro, shawl-neck cardigans, realized in chunky, space-dyed cashmere, that resemble traditional robes worn in Central Asia; reversible, cashmere travel suits; and degradè, speckled wool/mohair hand-knits.
Sporadic flourishes of embroidered flowers can be found on many of the pieces throughout the collection that, from afar, liken haphazard paint splashes and, up close, bear a resemblance to the artistically elaborate embellishments traditionally found on regionally native garments. These irregularly-placed embroideries have also been applied to suede boots that finish each look to perfection.
This season once again welcomes the collaborative efforts of Missoni and Converse with a silk sports boot that incorporates an elasticated cashmere sock.
Calvin Klein Collection Fall 2015
Italo Zucchelli, Men’s Creative Director
Powerful. Cinematic. Monochrome. Introducing the men’s Fall 2015 Calvin Klein Collection. A modern and compelling interpretation of menswear essentials. Iconic silhouettes rendered in rich fabrics and textures; a gray spectrum inspired by classic black and white films.
Silhouettes. Outerwear and sportswear pieces are executed in extreme proportions, balancing the oversized with the form-fitting, and are layered throughout to create depth. The aviator jacket features a shearling collar and is cropped and tailored close to the body, while double breasted overcoats, parkas and capes are voluminous and generously fit. Matte rubber finish snaps and thick metal zippers add an industrial element. Juxtapositions persist with pants that are either high-waisted and tapered through the leg or loose and relaxed. Lightweight mohair and chunky Fair Isle sweaters with mesh inserts provide an added dimension. For evening, the double breasted peak lapel tuxedo is modernized with an upturned collar.
Materials. A range of weighted materials – bonded flannel, mélange wool and cashmere, printed tweed and mohair – amplify the strength and multi-dimensional feel of the collection. Surfaces are highlighted in glossy vinyl or embossed cheetah and leopard prints.
Colors. Grayscale. The palette is tonal and monochromatic, ranging from white to black with hues of light heather, basalt, granite, gotham, charcoal heather and anthracite in between.
Accessories. Rugged and utilitarian. Field boots, in smooth calf or patent leather, are featured throughout the collection in either high or low top styles. Each pair is designed with an oversized box toe and is accented with a front-zip ankle cuff. Commuter bags, portfolios, pouches and travel wallets in printed haircalf or shearling are carried together and complement the coordinating separates. A luxe take on the baseball cap combines leather with wool, croc or nylon mesh.
For the Salvatore Ferragamo Fall Winter 2015 collection, Massimiliano Giornetti explores tactile elegance to stimulate the senses. Different elements are mixed to create a fabulous design: a fairy tale story made up of fantasy and creativity.
His narrative framework, fashioned by an intriguing language of symbols, animal motifs, stitches, and ties, is combined into a pristine men’s wardrobe.
The centre of this universe is filled with positive resilience and virile sensuality. Silhouettes are soft with relaxed and voluminous profiles. Surfaces owe their treatments to a skill of concentration and precision. Key pieces lay the blueprint for his wardrobe: tailored suiting, double- breasted jackets, blousons and outerwear including duffel coats.
The tailoring is neat and light. Against this backdrop are unexpected flashes of surprise; multi-coloured embroidery and leather patchwork create surreal animal motifs: zebras, flamingos, monkeys. Knitwear masters woven motifs intertwined with stitching or is intensely finished in lightweight treatments.
Striking three-dimensional coats are worn with cable-knit pullovers and big scarves: bold and ever-present, materials are central as the true protagonists. Unshakeable, traditional leathers and fabrics are permanently altered, transformed by artisanal handwork.
An emphasis on experimental craft techniques underlines and updates one of Ferragamo’s founding principles, a unique vision transcending time, with a foundation built by invention and innovation, rigorous methods and free associations.
The colour palette: woody and nocturnal. Shades of dark green, chestnut, deep red, black and melange grey are lit up by bright, decorative details.
The accessories are melded together, reflecting the intentional, unusual combinations and unexpected pairings portrayed throughout the collection.
Crocodile lace-ups and boots are reinforced at the toes and heels with natural leather emphasized by visible stitching; casting the illusion of blending footwear, the accumulative effect highlighted by contrasting textures.
Generously-sized duffels in various materials carry the motif, reworking Salvatore Ferragamo’s original bag for the modern gentleman.
The story is studded with miniature jewels in a decorative, narrative gesture where bronze and horn claws are used as buckles and brooches.
Out of the darkness, internationally renowned rapper and producer Snoop Dogg appears in the center stage boxing ring to perform his massive hit “What’s My Name”, followed by a live Mixed Martial Arts match featuring world champion “Demolition Man” while industrial percussionist set the mood for the start of the Autumn/Winter 2015/2016 PHILIPP PLEIN menswear fashion show.
Snoop Dogg kept the adrenaline going into the night with a high energy DJ set during the iconic PHILIPP PLEIN after-party.
The collection mirrors the adrenaline-fueled aesthetic of the challenges that men face nowadays. The main colors are black and white, army green, bordeaux and grey. Proportions and cuts are revolutionized while volumes of exotic skins become collection staples as never before. This represents a turning point for the fashion House, towards an uncompromising modernity, a #pleinwarriors style.
The urban match, the battle and concept of the boxing ring are represented through details borrowed from the world of sports and aviation. A mix of powerful inspirations that translate into an aggressive and extremely refined menswear collection.
Baseball jerseys and the wardrobe of underground athletes from boxing gyms to improvised street arenas transform into symbols of strength and luxury; oversize T-shirts realized entirely in crocodile or python, running pants reconstructed in kid glove-like leather and over the top python jumpsuits.
The bomber jacket, one of the most relevant symbols of the pioneers of aviation, is revised into a high-volume version. Classic lining goes external while fur is double-faced and features a play of contrasting volumes and colors.
Knitwear shows a rough face; a combination of military style in blatant contrast with extra soft leathers is seen throughout the entire collection. 3D geometric elements and logo graphics featuring the image of a ferocious panther decorate jackets and T-shirts together with gothic characters.
Accessories plainly underline the strength of the collection. Helmets, kneepads, ergonomic paddings are offered in python and leather. Steam-punk sneakers feature led-lighted soles. #PLEINWARRIORS
Absolute luxury – the pieces that a man needs, Versace style.
The introduction of the new Versace suit, with a neat constructed shoulder and a sharp shorter jacket length, in a variety of styles and cloths.
A sporty energy comes from hooded tops, knit leggings and second-skin trousers that zip at the ankle.
Cashmere knitwear is a focus, whether it’s fine-gauge long rib knit tops, or chunky knit sweaters and cardigans that sit below the hips.
Tone-on-tone dressing gives a fine look, especially when it’s a single-button suit worn with matching shirt and tie.
Fur is an essential, with full or cropped hooded coats in mink, plus a bomber of intarsia mink. Fur also trims coat collars and the inside of hoods.
There are plays on silhouettes and proportions, like the fitted blousons worn with matching oversized pants.
Functionality is given Versace edge, such as quilted leather parkas with fur lining, to tailored jackets in quilted black silk.
Graphic black-and-white blanket coats are noble, while double-breasted coats are long and lean, with a dominant power.
Metal details shine throughout, from the gold tabs that fasten tailoring, to the gold buttons that fasten the half-belts of coats.
The classic Versace sneaker is remade entirely in leather, from the laces to the soles, revealing the underlying craft of the collection.
“The collection is Versace stripped or Versace soul. Stripped because I took all the decorations off. You are going to find the pure Versace soul that stands on its own for its shapes, cuts silhouettes, sharpness and sensuality”. DV
Architecture, space, the city, nature and science, these are the themes visited by Stefano Pilati in past Ermenegildo Zegna Couture collections.
For the Autumn Winter 2015/16 the ‘luxury of choice’ is eco-solidarity.
The eco-sustainability theme is not new to Gruppo Zegna, who have, over generations, been consistent in their commitment to social and environmental activities. Through constant research into the quality of their products with an absolute respect for the environment, the group continues to maintain leadership in the development and production yarn, cloth and garments made from natural fibers.
The uniform of an Eco-leader is the key inspiration of Stefano Pilati for this collection, seen through the use of noble fibers from the house, as well as original archive Harris Tweeds, selected for their authenticity and for their “recyclability”.
A sense of environmental “protection” is perceived not only in the garments and accessories but also in the attitude.
An attitude of ‘action’, in ‘the field’, opens the show, interspersed with the pure poetry of the broken suit in both velvet or corduroy, before taking a more urban turn for the second part.
Utilitarian “eco-leaders” uniforms are translated in jackets with subtly and softly sculpted details, where pockets are pleated or gathered, worn with tailored pants either elasticated at the bottom or conceived multifunctional.
Shoes and boots are covered by protection elements, while hybrid bags are sporty and luxurious.
All to define a new “urban uniform” with a leisure flavor.
Ermenegildo Zegna is industry, business, luxury, but also protection, sensibility and poetry.
Colors: Grey, Charcoal, Smoke, Brown, Hazel Brown, Khaki, Sage, Mint, Salmon, Oxblood, Plum, Black, Dark Blue.
Plants and Trees: Taxus Media Hicksii, Pinus Mugo, Juniperus, Camellia, Azalea, Rhododendron, Aucuba, Fern, Oat Grass; Rhododendron, Cedrus Pendula, Medlar Trees, Cupressuscyparis Leylandii, Cinnamomum Camphora, Cupressus Gold Crest, Viburnum Thymus, Cupressus FilIera , Taxus.
The vegetation is inspired by Oasi Zegna, where the set will be replanted.