Wordly techniques are reinvented forming the texture of this collection. Peruvian ‘Nazca’ quilting, rug knitting, and autumn leaf embroideries are layered with scribbled velvet, crosshatch tweed, and metallic fil coupé. Allusions to highland exploration are streamlined through a hybrid sense of decorative utility.
The palette runs from black, pewter, olive to mountain blues, lucuma oranges, and oleander pinks. Statement sleeves, grosgrain trims, and touches of Mongolian goat hair highlight sculpted wool tailoring and short padded outerwear worn with patch pocket felt skirts or contrast zip flares.
Bias cut gowns of asymmetric foulard silks come embellished with brass cabochons and Swarovski totem patches, whilst fine knit dresses wrap in lace ombré, fringed passementerie and candy stripes. On foot, embroidered leather riding boots and velvet venetian slippers are crafted by Ludwig Reiter, Vienna (est. 1885).
For the Autumn Winter 2017 collection designed by Peter Pilotto and Christopher de Vos, the runway space is populated by eclectic objects made by our friends. From paintings and sculpture to hard and soft furnishings, both new and antique. Sharing the same fascination for exploring collecting together.
Wed, March 29 2017 » Fashion Blog » No Comments
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Versus Versace © Copyright 2017
The unity of a new generation – the Versus Versace generation.
Sharp shapes and contrasting volumes have young fierce attitude, like a strong-shouldered raglan-sleeve scuba dress with moto sleeves and a silver zip down the back. A brand new print is created from torn-up and over-painted iconic Versus imagery, a fresh play with heritage on everything from padded jackets to dresses and T’s.
Padded jackets are pumped to the extreme, with zips down the middle of exaggerated hoods for men and women, while women’s cropped padded jackets have zippered backs. Metal mesh is reborn in black-on-black, with black metal mesh bonded onto black scuba for cocoon-shaped long-sleeve dresses with a zip down the back.
Fluffy teddy yarn sweaters come in sorbet colours and cropped shapes or an oversized hoodie for men. Meanwhile bobble knit sweaters create unexpected futuristic structure. Shearling jackets are given a tech update for both men and women, cut into panels that are held together by scuba, with oversized scuba pockets.
Leather is key, like the classic Versus leather jacket, an A-line leather mini-skirt, a leather wrap skirt with its long strap held by D-rings, or cropped leather culottes. Tracksuits are reinvented, like the trackdress with a round cutout at the back, or for men the play of sports with formality with trackpants in traditional wool gabardine.
A classic Versus image of a couple kissing, found on T-shirts and T-shirt dresses, reveals the passion, equality and unity that is at the heart of Versus, now and forever. A utility worker’s jacket becomes the new tailoring for men in wool gabardine, while tailored pants are in exaggerated scale, sometimes finished with cargo pockets.
Super-short iridescent sheer dresses have a twist in the front, or is draped on the front of a tank dress. The same iridescent lurex is used for sheer tops for both men and women. Mary Jane sandals and knee-high boots add character, while for men and women sneakers are elevated with a thick sole and exaggerated tread, held by a velcro tab.
The key women’s bag is held by a strap decorated with an oversized classic Versus buckle, while men’s backpacks come in the new torn-up Versus print.
“Fashion has the power to send out a message of hope and unity, especially to the new generation. Versus is about passion, optimism and a fierce statement of equality.” Donatella Versace
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Alberta Ferretti© Copyright 2017
ALBERTA FERRETTI A DATE AT THE PALAZZO
Alberta Ferretti opens the doors of Palazzo Donizetti in Milan to welcome guests to an important date with her fashion. This three-part rendezvous develops an unusual formula for the fashion system: the rooms of the Palazzo will be the setting for a show featuring clothes from Alberta Ferretti’s Rainbow Week, the first capsule collection of ‘see-now-buy-now’ knitwear; the Alberta Ferretti Prefall 2017 collection; and the Alberta Ferretti Limited Edition collection.
“Accepting the invitation of Milan to open fashion spaces to the city, I decided to present a three-part show to the fast-paced fashion world that reveals my approach to fashion. With Rainbow Week I want to introduce the rapidity of the ‘see-now-buy-now’ concept in my world, while with the pre-collection I would like to reveal the methods of my creative process. With Limited Edition, I want to show the public what is behind the design of an exclusive garment and how it affects my interpretation of elegance, femininity, and exclusiveness,” said Alberta Ferretti.
Rainbow Week, the first capsule collection dedicated to Alberta Ferretti knitwear, will be immediately available online after the show on the websites www.albertaferretti.com, www.farfetch.com, and www.luisaviaroma.com and also sold through an exclusive selection of boutiques such as Harrods, Printemps, Saks Fifth Avenue, Selfridges and Apropos. The seven wool/cashmere sweaters – each in a different color and decorated with the name of the day of the week – are worn by seven different women, forming a rainbow of references to and sensations of our modernity. Roles are also interchangeable: the oversized Wednesday, Friday and Sunday sweaters can also be worn by men.
Fluid and romantic, luxurious but with an attitude that is perfect as elegant daywear, the Prefall 2017 collection reflects upon how and when to wear elaborate garments designed and made to express modern femininity. Embroidery, intarsia lace, prints, and dévoré and dérapé techniques appear on bias-cut velvet dresses, asymmetrical skirts, and long chiffon dresses printed with wrought iron motifs through which floral designs in subtle shades intertwine. These garments are worn with velvet and jacquard silk coats or raw-cut cloth coats with new silhouettes and volumes.
Aristo-cool is the sentiment blending glamour and lifestyle that inspires the Alberta Ferretti Limited Edition collection. Created as an alternative expression of Alberta Ferretti’s concept of exclusiveness and fine tailoring in womenswear, in this season the Limited Edition collection knowingly explores the everyday glamour of modern divas. Angora sweaters sparkling with crystals bare shoulders and are worn over long slinky bias-cut skirts. Lace patchwork is used to create mysterious dresses with sophisticated femme fatale elegance. Diamond pins and crystal brooches hold subtle draping in place. Sheer bodysuits have sleeves embroidered with jet beading, while black denim trousers create a stunning contrast with oversized sweaters. The collection, which comes in monochrome shades of white, black, red and gold, focuses on that special attitude and expresses a vibrant lifestyle and unique personality.
Rainbow Week Collection
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Chanel Haute Couture© Copyright 2017
Transpose the ambiance of 31, rue Cambon without copying every detail. That’s what Karl Lagerfeld had in mind for the presentation of the Spring-Summer 2017 Haute Couture collection at the Grand Palais. In a décor inspired by the 1930’s and Art Deco, the setting recalls the mirrors that reflect the grand staircase leading up to the CHANEL Haute Couture salons. This time it’s the beige sofas that seem to have multiplied. On the same principle a large cylinder acts as a kaleidoscope in the midst of the runway: in front of it, the models appear to pass by infinitely, their silhouettes also reflecting in the smoky mirrored tiles engraved with the iconic quilting motif.
With slicked back hair and a “flattened” top hat tilted backwards, and silver-leather high heels or thigh boots, this season’s look is all about a crazy femininity: with structured shoulders, defined and slightly raised waists, it reveals the accentuated hips. A glamorous silhouette reinforced by the presence of straight or tubular lines, daringly low-cut décolletés and faux pearl jewellery transformed into anklets. Alongside the major hues of white, silver and grey, the palette – illuminated each time with metallic, silver, sparkling and iridescent notes – blows hot and cold, moving from beige, pink, yellow, blue and pastel green through to black and navy.
With great delicacy, the tweed suits with embroidered braid are draped at the waist, thus enhancing the curves of their tulip skirts. Playing with trompe l’oeil they become dress-coats, the jacket appearing to be tucked into a pencil skirt. At the back, ample golf pleats ensure the utmost comfort. Just as feminine and worn with tweed jackets, the dresses with officer or lavallière collars are dressed up in shimmering tones. Pleated skirts and dresses are paired with coats in iridescent tweeds.
For evening, the silhouettes come swathed in radzimir, duchess satin, organza and taffetas, flocked and laminated lace, tulle, jacquard and georgette. The pearlised floral embroideries and glittering faceted stones shine over the sheath dresses and those with more generous volumes occasionally kept warm with stoles in tulle, feathers and lace. Sheath dresses take turns at being enveloped in floor-skimming mirrored embroidery, strips of sequin embellished lace, or balls of feathers. Draped bustiers embroidered with rhodoid flowers and leaves, big skirts and dresses in tulle, deep and square-cut necklines plunging to the start of the waist and marabou boleros: a delicate and gracious sensuality seizes this collection that concludes with the arrival of CHANEL ambassador Lily Rose Depp who walks the runway in a wedding gown composed of diaphanous flounces in pale pink organza.
This Tuesday, January 24th, the House ambassadors Vanessa Paradis, Anna Mouglalis, Caroline de Maigret, Alma Jodorowsky, G-Dragon and Shin Hye Park, the singer Cécile Cassel, the English actress Lucy Boynton as well as French actresses Laura Smet, Céline Sallette and Karidja Touré were all present at the Grand Palais to applaud the CHANEL Spring-Summer 2017 Haute Couture collection.#HC17#ChanelHauteCouture
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