Andrea Incontri © Copyright 2012
For the next summer season Andrea Incontri reinterprets the value of Italian taste that meets the world and modernity, bringing together inspiration from traditional culture and influences from far-away, exotic lands.
Sentimental, Graphic, Oriental. The collection reveals a romantically cultured and orderly attitude, where order and balance are expressed through geometric shapes printed on fabrics or woven directly into the greatly innovative textures. An image whose onset is in the color, whose primary reference is the hydrangea:
a flower that originated in the extreme lands of sun but that is also profoundly linked to the memories of the Italian Riviera in the Sixties and Seventies.
Starting from dazzling white, the palette moves towards innocent and delicate nuances – sky blue, wisteria, matte pink – in micro and macro checkers that bring back childhood memories of elementary notebooks.
A chromatic lightness that later tends towards the nighttime in the refined pairings of dark nuances of black and blue, to then surprise the monochrome with extremely sophisticated prints of floral deconstructions and reconstructions, or embroidery using vintage thread, individually created.
The collection becomes a tale of symmetry of style and function, using fabrics from classical tailoring and from the undying artisanal vision that always resurges to exalt an embedded attention and research: from woven cotton to insubstantial poplin, from printed chiffon to seersucker silk raffia, each and every surface filled with archetype meanings.
The silhouettes are studied in detail to tell the story of the dynamism of modern rhythms but also of a desire for femininity that alternates fitted bustier dresses decorated with diamond shapes with fluid and transparent evening gowns.
Volumes are often dictated by oversized garments: shirts and tunics with geometrical lines, short and wide pants, bermuda shorts inspired by boxer shorts, mini-jackets with kimono sleeves.
The shapes are straightforward yet animated by panels and folds that reconfirm the structural architecture of Andrea Incontri’s fashion code, a story he also tells in the linear blouses that take inspiration from school smocks, in the pencil skirts and mini dresses that reinvent the concept of the “little black dress”.
Finally, accessories complete the look creating strong material and visual contrast: from strappy sandals with cleated soles to pumps with double metallic buckles; from shoppers covered in seasonal prints to “college” school bags to be carried on the shoulders. Last but not least the precious bucket bag, a reminder of the small baskets geishas used to use as caskets of seduction and vanity.
Tue, October 30 2012 » Fashion Blog » No Comments
Anteprima © Copyright 2012
FEEL THE BEST
Whole, light, shimmering. This is the season for women to inspire.To shine, with joy, elegance, confidence.
A season with all the seasons within. Layers of the retro and contemporary and high-tech, transcending. Reflecting circles of whites, golds, silvers, powders.
A season for intelligence and transparency. Fine fabrics flowing, billowing. With happiness and comfort, one complementing the other.
Feel the texture, the geometry. The sheer grace of silhouettes and satin. The boldness of metallic mesh and all-overs.
Knitted, pleated, silken, sequins… a-lined, fluid, straight, wide… and fine sandals with platinum heels to lift you.
This is a season embroidered with womanly beauty and light. Woven with sophistication and simplicity, softness and stamina. The woman’s body echoes everything.
Feel the best this season
Tue, October 23 2012 » Fashion Blog » No Comments
Ermanno Scervino © Copyright 2012
ERMANNO SCERVINO’S BOHO-CHIC WOMAN
A SURPRISING YET HARMONIOUS PLAY OF COLOURS AND MATERIALS FROM DISTANT LANDS
Ermanno Scervino’s boho-chic woman is attracted by a tailored luxury belonging to the World. Colours and materials come together in unusual ways, generating a harmonious encounter between Mediterranean and Atlantic.
A meld of macramé embroideries, floral designs and arabesques, netted lacy weaves in the patchwork finishes of dresses, tops and jackets delivering sensual transparencies.
Strong, warm shades – duckbill, violet, yellow, coral and fuchsia, even mingled – transmit new atmospheres in the silk tops laced at the neck, in the impalpable mohair sweaters backed with mesh, the shorts and the long low-waisted skirts and the mini-dresses made of silk, leather and suede.
White and black map out geometrical motifs in the transparent nets, the patchworks, the flounces and at the waistlines of the sleeveless mini-dresses.
Hand-made organza feathers and lasered flounces for collars and some of the garments of the collection; tassels and fringes create unique sleeveless dinner jackets, with revers made of fabric or macramé patchwork.
Jackets and parkas in technical fabrics featuring retro collars with jewel buttons, inserts or laser appliqués and fringes in contrast colour.
Single-shoulder evening dresses in contrasting shades, with transparencies allowing glimpses of brassiere and culottes.
The collection is rounded off by sandals with shaped wooden wedges and upper in two-tone leather weave or bands of shagreen stamped leather.
Sack bags in mesh knit paired with nappa leather or raffia; handbags in gold-frosted stamped ostrich; mini-bags with mesh of macramé weave or raffia with spangles.
Fri, October 12 2012 » Fashion Blog » No Comments
Simonetta Ravizza © Copyright 2012
A journey from Marrakech to Paris, an encounter between two symbols of great style. Talitha Getty and Betty Catroux. Two opposite and still very close styles.
This story has been translated into outfits with thousands women souls. A young and sensual woman, pretty disrespectful, that plays, blends and comes up with her own re-interpretation of style.
Morocco, with the warm colours of its land and the shades of its spices (with red and turquoise touches) but also a black and white minimalism inspired by the ‘70s Paris.
Stripes, graphic motifs and prints with a “tie and dye” effect.
Laser-cut black leather for a lace effect.
Very light Black & White minks treated and designed with the Maison know how.
Soft and drifted lines, juxtapositions, and opposites reappear in the trapezoid-shaped mini and maxi dresses .
The leather is the Maison’s must and signature, the material that follows through and underlines the whole of the collection.
The “must-have” : the “tank top”, reworked and made more precious in all its declinations, mink, treated leather and sophisticated fabrics.
The accessories play a leading role all through, where the search and study of the smallest details becomes style, with fur covering high platform sandals and animalier printed pumps.
Oversized bags with a strong personality in mohair fur. Another must among the accessories is the very refined “Hemingway” bag with its horn handle and tiger-print fur.
Wed, October 10 2012 » Fashion Blog » No Comments
N°21 © Copyright 2012
This is opulence seen through the irreverent eyes of the Tumblr generation. Images clash, intersect the liberating energy of unknown inflections.
Playing freely with opposites, Alessandro Dell’Acqua takes the art of contradiction to new heights where it explodes with perfect aplomb. Couture-level materials and stylistic features collide with the rules for a practical urban wardrobe, so defining a fresh concept of classics. Quietly offbeat.
Iridescent, pixel mode. Every item has all the pieces both totally in and out of place, ergo the organza T-shirt has fun with color blocks and the charmeuse sweatshirt presents tone-on-tone cabochon-trim sleeves.
As atelier and street engage in a mutually enticing dialogue, one skirt turns sumptuous thanks to crystal and aluminum-cap paillette embroidery and the white vinyl-back trucker jacket makes an ideal match with a skirt in lace. Following the logic of a fanciful shifting in & out of position, the language of eloquence takes on a pop tinge, while natural and artificial flirt back & forth.
End-result? Vestal virgins dance in the silicone print on the duchesse skirt, colorful python inlays create a postmodern damier pattern on very simple skirts and Ts. A sense of graphic composition forms the backdrop as every element fits into a precise design. Shapes are archetypal: mannish short-sleeve shirts, structurally simple tops and sweaters, knee-skimming pencil skirts, comfortable finely creased pants. Meantime, the ever ongoing conversation between masculine and feminine sparks a perceptible tension that’s crisp, erotic, seductive.
Materials are full, rich, supple and firm: silk duchesse and satin, brocade, lace, snakeskin, vinyl, crepe. Colors make a classic statement offset by flashes of brights: white, blue, aqua, magenta, nude and flesh tones.
Accessories include duchesse & Plexiglas slingback pumps, strappy Roman sandals in galuchat leather, boxy clutch bags with a military flair.
Fri, October 5 2012 » Fashion Blog » No Comments
Alberta Ferretti © Copyright 2012
“For my Spring/Summer 2013 collection I envisioned a collection in which a women would float lightly as if weightless, yet still maintaining her strength and individuality. ” states Alberta Ferretti in describing her distinct and contemporary style in which lightness is primordial.
Both short and long dresses are doubled and layered creating liquid, iridescent, and floating surfaces as if they were light creatures suspended in the air.
The silhouettes are in constant movement and enhanced by the lightness of the fabrics.
The languid shapes evolve following the feminine and ethereal movement of the woman as she moves.
Short dresses are embellished with beadwork and tremblant embroideries and paired with sheer organza tunic dresses with ephemeral beaded fringe.
Iridescent dresses appear to be suspended on the body, anchored by invisible tulle straps.
Shorts, jackets, skirts and overcoats in luxurious Silk Shantung are fashioned into light and delicate silhouettes.
Long diaphanous gowns in Silk Chiffon shimmer as the iridescent under layer is magically reflected through the top layer of chiffon, creating volume while a small train enhances the movement.
Lace inserts outline tattoos on the body and satin sequin nets reflect the light of precious jewels.
The colour palette of turquoise, bright whites, aqua green, and pale greys radiate an airy lightness.
Jewels: Alexis Bittar exclusively for Alberta Ferretti
Wed, October 3 2012 » Fashion Blog » No Comments
Paola Frani © Copyright 2012
EXOTIC – PUNK
A flashing light carves out the outlines of an exotic landscape.
The visual contemplation of a timeless space. Stretches appear sunny and reassuring: the harmony is broken by a shady, dark component. Colourful and aggressive in the same click.
This is the spirit of the PAOLA FRANI s/s 2013 collection: exotic and punk, sophisticated and essential based on a combination of stylistic registers that appear to be incompatible.
Anatomical silhouettes mix with oversize volumes. Linear black cuts mark the powder colour of the sheath dress and compact jersey net arranges itself on the scuba-effect, bandeau skirt.
At the same time, more fluid shapes lighten and free the body: boy-fit cotton batiste shirt and wide multi-layer bitter yellow silk trousers. Couture fabrics like the relief volute jacquard of the mini-skirt and the stain embroidered, technical cotton jacket. Rigorous architectures in natural fibres.
Rays of Californian sun filter through the lace that becomes multicoloured on the silk t-shirt and green-blue laminate on the purist tunic. Visual projections of UV A rays.
Prints blend together in a lyrical-dreamlike mix: the volute-graphic print of the kaftan hypnotizes with its black-powder-gold colours and becomes graphic- animal print on the satin cotton shorts.
Vortexes of colour like the zero point of our consciousness. Optical illusions multiply with a delirium of mixed zebra prints on the silk charmeuse cardigan. A nocturnal tropical rain print in electric blue-black shades stands out on the georgette petal dress.3D psychedelia.
The orchid print shines of a light saturated in absolute white and lagoon blue; paradisiacal flowers frame the long jersey dress and fill the Hawaiian-style shirt. Flowers become crystals on multi-coloured costume jewellery. Multi-coloured glitter illuminates the PVC-patent leather court shoes and micro-belts.
The superhero blue, macro bustier belt cinches in the waist. There are eighties flashbacks and neo-Gothic recollections: rigorously uncombed and bouffant hair reveals tidy, melancholic plaits. Like a dream in which noises blur and sweet sounds turn dark.
Like a vision with out-of-focus edges in which figures and objects that apparently have nothing in common come together.
Reinventing. Mixing. Evolving. The new Californian dream.
Tue, October 2 2012 » Fashion Blog » No Comments
Light & Color
A new era of light and color. A new femininity. Modern lightness between romantic accents, sinuous lines and timeless prints, is what Bianca Gervasio, Creative Director of Mila Schön, has imagined and stylized for the upcoming spring/summer. This season’s woman is like a multifaceted prism, which radiates elegance and sensuality, freshness and determination, capturing and reflecting all of the emotions and attitudes of present time in equilibrium of sophisticated seduction.
The collection is enhanced by luminous reflections, multicolor geometric shapes, mosaics of crystals or enameled plexiglass, yet with a tailored touch that harmonizes natural nuances, pastel hues and vivid shades like cyclamen and mint. A chromatic growing rhythm that artfully vibrates in the images recalling the designs from the archive: from the “chevron scalino” pattern – luxuriously realized in silk jacquard and lurex – to the mix of the “coriandolo” print, accented with a refined explosion of bright tones and embellished with SWAROVSKI ELEMENTS for eveningwear.
The fabrics shape fluid and structured silhouettes with impeccable precision. Silk and cotton organza, cotton, cady, thick cotton drill, jacquard and stretch silk gauze, are all used alternatively within the collection, from designing soft lines to even sculpting three-dimensional forms of trapezoidal volumes. Finally the crêpe de Chine is exquisitely dismantled and recomposed as crescents in the long A-line dress, inspired by one of the original designs of the Maison.
The image is completed by precious accessories that continue to evoke the refined and exuberant mix of light and color permeating the entire collection. From the pumps and fabric belts perfectly matching the new compact bag in both weaved patent leather and the “coriandolo” print, to the “chevron scalino” patterned clutch where the double M logo of Mila Schön is adorned in metal and pearled rodoide.
Mon, October 1 2012 » Fashion Blog » No Comments