Moodboard Fausto Puglisi FW 2012-2013
Fabrics: Wool crepè, wool jersey, leather, spandex, cashmere, crepè de chine and chiffon.
Palette: Tropical flash fresh, black and nude.
Present day Virago squeezed into colour-block girdles.
Couture fabrics intertwined with super glossy spandex, Hellenic inspired, printed surfaces.
Handmade embroideries and crystal starbursts, metals and gold thread for an urban warrior.
Fetish-leather: saddle shoulders, Blade Runner details for bomber jackets and sheath dresses, leopard inferno and
vertiginous embroideries alternated with moments of total black.
Contrasts: men’s jackets structured like armour and pea coats as soft as dressing gowns.
American sportswear: box pleats, plissé, college knitwear for Grecian-Roman cheerleaders.
Evening wear: tropical paradise goddesses, playing with hard core slashes suspended between Segesta and Palm Springs.
Special thanks to Simone Rizzo Photographer
Fri, March 9 2012 » Fashion Blog
After carefully researching the company archives, elements that have made the Bruno Magli name famous around the world since the 1930s are now experiencing a renaissance.
The collection created for Fall/Winter 2012-2013 by the brand’s new creative director Max Kibardin will be revealed during Milan Fashion Week.
The aim is to enhance the brand’s DNA by retaining distinctive elements and reinterpreting the style with a modern twist. This sparked the idea of designing the perfect footwear, accessories and outerwear for modern-chic men and women in order to create not only a collection but a real lifestyle concept as well.
The inspiration comes from style icons whose allure remains irresistible even today, like Ali McGraw, Tippi Hedren, Cary Grant and Steve McQueen. Colours and elements from their iconic clothes provided the starting point for composing the Fall-Winter 2012 collection. For women, pumps featuring sophisticated colours made with meticulous attention to detail and boots with a reminiscently 1970s look.
Court shoes are synonymous with the Bruno Magli brand and have a place of honour in the collection, which is replete with many styles designed for daytime and evening wear. These are perfectly complemented by sandals crafted with unique techniques, moccasins with high heels in matching tones, and elegant boots created from the finest quality leathers.
Tops and pleated knee-length skirts in luxuriously light nappa, ash-grey mink duster coats, and mid-heel court shoes are the absolute must-haves for the new Bruno Magli woman designed by Kibardin.
The Bruno Magli man sports a casual-dandy style, and wears bottle-green and wine-red moccasins in glossy abrasivato calfskin with a fringe and tassels, refined cognac-coloured monk straps in select cordovan leather and classic black double-buckled derby shoes; wardrobe essentials for any man who loves elegance. Leather jackets, shearling coats and a leather trench coat in de rigueur black naturally add the finishing touches to the Bruno Magli man’s look.
Fri, March 9 2012 » Fashion Blog
The winter sea
Always the sea, free man, you will always love / as the sea is your mirror …
when it is not just a colorful frame for new adventures and lit nightclubs full of lies;
when his voice is not covered by banal music and shouts of agitated crowds;
when it is a fascinating film in black and white … and under the mistral / it screams and pales …
Wild waves chase each other, rolling, crashing on the rocks, they cancel them self, under the cold wind like a sharp blade the sea growls the rocks, reacts with anger, gnashing, writhing, darkening, dropping his fury on the beach, it crosses the dunes, hits the wall.
Let’s go to the sea to listen to his loud, violent, impetuous voice, or to let you hear (or to be heard)?
In the white fury of huge waves, mesmerized (drunk), you surrender, lunges, Resurface, floats.
You like the sea in winter and the stormy days when, as an angry, mad animal, growls and shows his terrible strength, fighting with indomitable energy with the wind that lifts mountains of water and foam and immediately downs under the weight of dense clouds that darken the sky.
You love him, even though it can sometimes be cruel and indifferent, love him as you love life.
And in the breath of the wind and waves you marge your breath and find yourself.
Charles Baudelaire, The Man and the Sea Carducci. San Martino
Fri, March 9 2012 » Fashion Blog
With the FW 2012/13 collection the designers make a plunge into the past as they look back at their senior year prom. Every girl in high school dreams about being perfect on prom night. An enchanting evening filled with preparations, sequin, flowers, music and the nervous excitement to find out who will be crowned prom queen.
Queen for one night, the Dsquared2 girl remains true to her roots and her rebel spirit. Despite the crown, she is not ready to trade in her “bad attitude” as she dares to mix denim with embroidered garments.
For the occasion, the Dsquared2 girl loots her mother’s sophisticated wardrobe without forgetting the precious vintage jewellery box. Elegant furs, colourful coats, crocodile jackets, flowing dresses and most importantly diamonds and precious stones.
Narrow and cropped pants, pencil skirts, long evening dresses and cocoon coats give a more curvy touch to the silhouette.
Opposites are brought together by an irresistible attraction: lace and gold damask prints mix with denim; while precious crocodile skins are embellished by soft mink furs.
Mama bags: elegant bags with a vintage feel. Precious accessories at the crossroads between the present and the past. The shapes are reminiscent of the 1950s while the super accessorized inside of the purse with iPad and iPhone pockets immediately bring us back to the present.
Cat eye inspired elongated sunglasses with a “glazed” aspect, toped with diamond sprinkles, seem to have been stolen from a cupcake shop.
Couture baseball caps and striped rugby-inspired scarves in mink, of course. Killer Cinderella shoes and “Leopearls” decolté.
Bows, bows and of course more bows.
Colours are reminiscent of marshmallows, pastel corsages or the prom punch: mint green, sunflower yellow, baby blue, coral and bright red.
Tue, March 6 2012 » Fashion Blog
The Chinese designer Uma Wang – guest star of the new edition of White (25 to 27 February 2012) – introduced with a fashion show / event, Sunday, Feb. 26, in the Hall of Caryatids of the Royal Palace – under the patronage of the Municipality of Milan – the new women’s collection Fall / Winter 2012/2013.
The designer is known for her ability to mix and match different types of tissues creating simple, yet full of unique details. Material is the starting point, the material develops the entire collection. The contrast of volumes and tissues is the key to understanding: long dresses and
Ultra-light combined with oversized coats and jackets. The knitwear creations, cleverly mixed with other materials like silk, finished with criteria couture.
After her studies at the China Textile University in Shanghai, Wang Uma made her debut in 1996 in fashion at the helm of numerous creative Chinese brands.
Very helpful to her training which allowed her access to the prestigious Central Saint Martins College in London, where she worked on her very own ready-to-wear designs.
Uma Wang debuts her first signature collection at Pure London in 2005, immediately revealing a strong stylistic imprint.
From 2005 onwards Uma Wang makes her way step by step through the streets of international success, arriving at her consecration at Milan fashion week.
Also on the catwalk – a world premiere – the collection of watches signed by Uma Wang for Swatch, the most innovative brand of watches in the world: they are special models that express her creativity, her energy and her style.
Sun, March 4 2012 » Fashion Blog
The prints come from hand-painted canvas, exhibited backstage at the fashion show, representing animal skins.
The ‘trompe l’œil’ effect is enhanced by the illusory mix of pythons leather printed with tiger or jaguar motifs, furs printed with python motif, pony skins transformed into crocodile.
Imaginary animals from pure fantasy are born. The silhouette: very short or maxi.
Mini skirts or ‘balloon’ dresses show the legs and are created with three-dimensional placed embroideries, in brocade or filleted fur, printed or inlaid.
Maxi skirts made of python leather painted with tiger motif, lasered mink with crocodile effect or cashmere cloth are combined with jacquard mohair sweaters or with entirely embroidered t- shirts.
Sculpture dresses in printed silk mousseline do not follow the line of the body but they redesign it and open in large ruffles and flounces in silk organza embellished with tiny pleated ruffles and black lace.
Haute artisanship prevails throughout the collection. Leather punched sequin mixed with micro feathers. Embroidery in relief with three-dimensional effects that recreate animal mantles or reptile scales.
The jackets and coats, made of black python leather or printed with ocelot or tiger mantle effect, have structured shoulders and a narrow waistline.
Large necklaces and bracelets made of metal covered with python or colored enamel depicting flamingos, snakes, crocodiles, embellished with colored stones.
Jockey hats covered with feathers, fur and crocodile.
The Florence bag is embellished with new details such as closures or strings of leather with buckles, inspired by the high quality of ‘hand made’ trunks.
Pointy pump shoes and lace up boots in python, crocodile, ostrich and lizard.
Big sunglasses named Wild Diva with mirrored lenses have sharp, emphatic outlines, underlined by crocodile, ostrich or galuchat inlaid workings to create an iconic and glamorous style with a daring shape and bold colors.
The scenery is characterized by a carpet of 39,000 roses that recreate the design of the tiger mantle: Schwarz black roses, bright copper color Cherry Brandy roses, brown Coffee Break roses, yellow Ilios roses on a bed of white roses and carnation.
Sun, March 4 2012 » Fashion Blog
Calvin Klein Collection Women’s Fall 2012
Iconic urbanism. Introducing the Fall 2012 women’s Calvin Klein Collection. Movement and ease, met with sharpness and precision.
Silhouettes. Hourglass lines embrace the body. Focus is on the waist, accentuated with the inverted darts and matte glazed silver belts. Suspension tailoring and flared shapes add subtle motion, creating energy and intrigue. Femininity with a cool confidence. Contouring effects are seen on polished jewel necklines and low waist, pleated pants. The house’s signature shift adopts a more romantic, voluminous sleeve and a curvilinear skirt. Hems rest above the knee for day and mid-calf for night. Eveningwear is laced with intricacies. Elaborate knot and cage embroideries on high-volume dresses combine embellishment with lightness for an effortless look.
Fabrics: Sumptuous and tactile. Mixed materials with complementing weights and surfaces from modern, textural combinations. Supple pebbled plunge adds detail and complexity, used as inserts or to counterbalance wools. Innovative fabrics – like technical tweed, bonded basket weave crépe and painted wool-mohair – enhance the collection’s contemporary, urban aesthetic. A camouflage needle punched wool coat introduces on element of depth. Soft, super fine shaved shearling, shown in coats and dresses, makes a refined statement.
Palette: Pure, stark, and minimal. Dark, melodic tones – onyx, midnight and classic black – intensified with a dramatic, vivid spectrum of sienna, poppy, cerise and carmine. Parchment offers a soft touch of color, in key pieces or slight peeks of contrast in folds and pleats.
Accessories: Architectural sophistication. A menswear inspired shoes, offset by an elegant, almond shaped captoe, plays with a masculine and feminine aesthetics. The sculptural, stacked heel has a flared silhouette, featuring a wide base that narrows at the top. A tall boot version lends a sportier appeal. Offered in either matte or high shine polished calf, as well as luxe alligator, each style comes in a essential palette of chalk, buff and black. Embodying both form and function, a curved, tubular frame is the apex of a structured, trapezoidal bag.
Fri, March 2 2012 » Fashion Blog
In a panel there are the pictures of holy womanly, amplify with details in the Tiepolo, Mantegna and Artemisia’s canvases. And again jewels of royal families, dresses made by Italian couture in the seventies, enlarges of master Tirelli’s Theatrical costumes Everything compose the dream, that is what should be the sense of beauty for the collection AQUILANO RIMONDI F/W 2012; a unique theme, but a group of little pieces that day by day to be added at the mosaic. The summary of what we love. On the second and third panel are fasten with pins, in accordion with accurately composition scheme of colors, the transposition of the pictures on the fabrics. Born the research. Iridescent velvet in the tones of ruby, emerald, sapphire, citrine, topaz, turquoise, black onyx; the same tones are pressure on the wool crêpes, velours of mohair, faille, ottoman and on the “scubas” ( duchesse of silk twisted and very thin ). Disappeared the patch, but there is the desire of same effect; are the Jacquards, decoupé, made on micro structure of silk. Very small draw translate in material the artistic element of holy. Put side by side there are the macro tridimensional fil coupé; draws of tapestries show on the wall in royal building. Follow the fifth, sixth and seventh tableau: is fasten with pins in a sequence of class of products, what correspond at the designer’s interpretation. Personal sketches for the silhouette research. Coat with resized shoulder and with the volume flared at boule. On the sleeves at glove, there are small pleats, almost unseen. The same pleats are recognizable on the dresses that have the point of waist emphasize by bustier, that are take like inspiration from the portrait of woman who were called “madonne”. Fastenings entwine, mix of textiles matched at the light semi dull of the black leather. In the draws the length is over the knee. At the fourth line, little pants pyijamas closed the circle, overall when are tightly matched with the jackets that are thought like “smoking jacket”. Contradictions of exposition that transpose all in the contemporaneity. The way of six months of research. The keystone of collection. The translation of own language; The made in Italy know in all world.
Fri, March 2 2012 » Fashion Blog
A parade in a gilded hall of mirrors: the firm footsteps of a woman seemingly rigorous yet sensual with an intense gaze. Her silhouette traced by a double-breasted overcoat of military cloth, leather lining and astrakhan collar.
An aesthetic study in linearity taking shape in the impeccable tailoring of asymmetrical, close-fitting jackets and sophisticated pencil dresses worn with knee-high boots. Elegance is a question of detail: the antiqued gold of the signet buttons, the astrakhan skirt is smooth resembling fabric, and hems enlivened by a subtle play of Paisley and braiding. Steppe, Steel Grey and Baltic Blue enhance the chromatic depth of this rigorous season, complimented by fur trimming and total black leather – almost a uniform.
For the evening, sartorial construction relaxes into an explosion of femininity. As in a fairy tale, the volumes of the overcoats become more generous and the fabrics change. Braiding enriched by touches of lurex and interlinking chains, hand worked crochet and alluring transparency produce sumptuously textured knitwear.
Black is the common thread linking day and night, which ushers in autumnal woodland tones: Purple, Blueberry, Malachite and Bordeaux.
This woman wears flowing skirts inlaid with a seductive patchwork of ribbon and braid, matching them with criss-cross chiffon blouses that bare her shoulders.
Against the skin, the liquid effect of printed velvet illuminates the cape and the draped dress.
In a crescendo of paisley patterns, embroidery and golden glints, fluidly soft chiffon dresses recreate the decorative flavour of a tsarina’s wardrobe.
At her neck, the lustre of Victorian glass cameos set in silk and Swarovski crystals.
Sandals and pumps with braided fastenings bare sensual portions of skin amidst a profusion of luxurious finishing. Embroidered velvet or breathtaking suede heeled boots are trimmed in rich astrakhan trimming.
The bags are small jewels of craftsmanship: from the fluid forms of the small embroidered velvet bags to the clutch evoking Fabergé’s work at the court of the tsars and the enamelled metal minaudière that resembles an antique cigarette case.
This is a double-edged femininity that revels in a sophisticated play of tailoring and seduction, in an exclusive mosaic of style: the new Salvatore Ferragamo collection for women.
Thu, March 1 2012 » Fashion Blog
“I love rock ‘n’ roll, so come and take your time and dance with me!”
The Frankie Morello collection for F/W 2012-13 is inspired by music but is not tied to the image of groupies and fans. It wants to evoke the attitude and style that is typical of the musician in the spotlight who plays a mean guitar and drives the crowds wild. Joan Jett, the icon who inspires these moods, and her “I love rock ‘n’ roll” take us below the stage where we dance to the music while the models on the catwalk pay tribute to the singer by wearing menswear blazers in wild flou colors like the one she wears on the cover of her most famous album.
Gymnastic references evoking the late seventies encounter the vibrant hues of the eighties, and the most sporty looks acquire a decidedly rock mood. The collection, which brings to mind a young, vitamin-charged American image, veers towards fierce video-clip style from the early years of MTV.
The collection is all about fusion and pop mix & match: it’s easy to wear but it also has some strikingly dramatic pieces that real stars need and want. The woman’s wardrobe is influenced by menswear: the man’s shirt is the perfect all-purpose item and the jacket is inspired by the biker’s jacket but fits like a man’s bomber jacket. “Good girl” preppie-style garments like the duffle coat or elegant sweater are given a “wicked” twist through bright colors and metal studs in shades tones that are even applied on an eyelet lace dress.
Metal mesh pieces worn with practically nothing underneath are sexy, feline and charismatic.
Frankie’s rocker girls, however, live in today’s hyper-technological work, so they can’t live without their potent leather or buckskin iPad cases with studded detailing.
Maurizio Modica and Pierfrancesco Gigliotti remind us, in pure rocker style, that good girls to heaven, but bad girls go EVERYWHERE!
Thu, March 1 2012 » Fashion Blog