The DAKS menswear collection for SS14 takes its inspiration from seaside holidays in the early 1930′s, at that time a pastime for the privileged few.
The collection reflects the style of the English gentleman, elegant both in mind and manners, leaving for an exclusive holiday resort. The clothing and luggage evoke an impeccably dressed gentleman, strolling along the shore in Deauville, or sitting on the balcony of the Hotel de Bains, amid the white flowering hydrangeas.
The colour palette is elegantly neutral, with white, black and grey dominating. A sophisticated shade of dusty green brings to mind the sea in the late afternoon on the beginning of summer and the appearance of the DAKS House Check endorses the British Heritage of the brand.
DAKS’ heritage is also referenced in the trouser styles which are either simple and slim or more ample, pleated and high waisted, evoking the “self support” trousers invented and patented by DAKS in 1934. Suiting features double-breasted, slightly longer lenght jackets, in white piquet or in fine grey and black English worsted wool.
Knitwear occupies an important place in the collection. Produced in fine fibres such as cashmere, ilk and cotton, it refers in a precise, detailed manner to the epoch of the collection.
Accessories also play an important part, particularly bags, which are produced in fine luxurious leather, as well as crocodile and ostrich. Ostrich also features in a classic take on a Mackintosh trench.
This season certain iconic garments are given an eccentric twist, such as a dinner suit made in white toweling which is worn casually and lightly on bare skin. The sophisticated Englishman does not make any concessions to himself or his look, unless is some slight hint calculated irony which always shows us the way to elegance.
From the city streets to the desert
For next summer, Trussardi sets off on a new journey, taking its man from the city streets to the desert. Endless arid scenery flooded with dazzling light: the hustling city is abandoned for a new adventure in the heart of the sandy empire where the Trussardi man puts his masculinity and strength to the test. Clean lines and a dusty color palette express authentic understated luxury.
An active and charismatic man who loves adventure
The silhouette is flowing and natural. The desert palette is inspired by the passing hours on the sand dunes: cool notes of light blue, beige, pale green, and chalk brightened with flashes of terracotta and blue to compose a rich texture. The desert is transfigured into intriguing materials with texture such as leather and rough canvas.
Leather, the signature material of Trussardi, is turned into an impalpable, opaque fabric. Used for raw-cut jackets, duster coats, K-way jackets, Bermuda shorts, shirts, slim-fit five-pocket jeans, leather is once again the absolute star of the entire men’s collection.
When leather is paired up with rough textured canvas, it creates a visually seductive and tactilely intriguing play of contrasts. Wrinkled surfaces are combined with naturalistic prints, and oversized sweaters reveal the soft side of this collection with roughly elegant allure.
Accessories in opaque materials – hobo bags, multi-pocket canvas shoulder bags, and backpacks made of buffalo, ostrich, and nappa python leather – accompany the Trussardi man through the desert dunes. This is the wardrobe of the perfect modern traveler who loves understated luxury.
In continuing recognition of Misson’s 60th anniversary, the men’s Spring/Summer 2014 offering continues to draw inspiration from the family’s artisanal knitwear heritage and continues its focus on knit fabrics only made in Sumirago Italy.
For Spring Summer 2014 Missoni has introduced a special loom knit fabric that has been made with an exclusive rubbed coated yarn, this is featured in a special partnership with Hancock of Scotland – expert coat makers with vulcanised cloths, where a package of three outerwear pieces are created with Missoni knit detail.
The season’s distinct colour palette comes from the radiation textiles and landscapes of the region of West Africa. Of particular reference are the indigo tie dye textiles of Benin, where shades of indigo, ink and midnight blue amalgamate to make the new Missoni Blue.
Sand, dark terracotta and clay are present to recreate pieces inspired by mud dye cloths of Mali. Dark olive, khaki, sage and forest green are inspired from the lush rainforests of Ivory Coast.
The special use of textures resonates across the collection where classic men’s wardrobe staples are transformed in rich jacquards, plaited stitches and graceful stripes in fluid linen mélanges, cotton crepes and light summer cashmere.
This season is also typified by the varied print techniques inspired by forest shadows on a scorching day or prints taken from traditional methods of folded tie dying. High waist trousers in tropical weight drill give the collection a relaxed atmosphere, while a classic military shirt knitted in iconic space dye gets a Missoni twist.
The continuing collaboration with Jean Machine creates a relaxed pleated pant, denim jacket and a five pocket jean with Missoni features. The partnership in its a second season with artisanal shirt makers Finamore of Napoli brings exclusive hand finished shirts.
A textured linen slipper in a signature Missoni intarsia has been created by C.B. Made in Italy and an iconic Missoni space dye fabric has been used to create a special show version of the Jack Purcell by Converse.