THE VIVIAN GIRLS HAVE WON!
The monsters are defeated! Giants, spectres, fears, weaknesses, doubts, dangers within and without ourselves. Elsie is vindicated and Simonetta triumphs.
She marries in white. There’ll be a grand celebration.
Starting at dawn, a joyous ding-dong of bells summons everyone. There’s something new, the air is sweet, an air of other places and other times. The breeze sways red, yellow, purple flowers; silvery spines shimmer. The table sparkles: crystal, platinum, silver, silk, flowers, cakes. Everything’s a bit heaped together, but in a good way, with elegance and harmony. They’ve decided that today the world must be made romantic. That’s the only way it will regain its original meaning.
So a poet says. And he’s right. Today they celebrate!
One of them is a young bride and they all dress up in her honour. They’re all here, they’ve come from faraway places and times, very faraway. Daisy, Elsie, Anna, Joyce, Jenny, Catherine, Anna, Vera not forgetting Sailor Moon, lively Teresa as well as Andrée, Rosemonde, Albertine and Cate and Luna… They are young women in the bloom of youth, bellas mariposas, multicoloured butterflies that love flowers and a little shade, too. They want to play some more; they dress in their finery to say that the world can change, become sunny, enchanted, unreal.
Bouclé fabrics, textural tweeds, damasks in various thicknesses and colours, pink, milky-white, peach-pink, apricot, lilac, pale green, pastel shades, ceremonial colours, golden threads. Long-forgotten Chanel jackets, military jackets taken apart and reassembled. They project con- trasts, ambivalence, dreams, illusions, hopes, darkness and light the stuff of life. This is why jackets, duster coats and dresses have duality, they become “others”. At the back, black, white, ecru cotton in geometric, floral, dotted patterns; in front, hand-executed decorations and embroidery, extravaganzas of flowers, branches, buds, butterflies, storms, joins, showers of pearls and Swarovski crystals. In a passionate urge to see clearly, emerge from the shadows, from the darkness and, amidst songs and silence, go towards a shining horizon.
TINY VARIATIONS IN SPARKLES
Swarovski crystals speak of other things, they take us by the hand and lead us elsewhere.
They take us to roads covered in light, they tell us that sun-dust will always filter through even the tiniest chink.
The road is covered in pebbles and stones, dark and radiant presences, as sweet as oboes, green as pastures or seabeds, as white as ice lances melting in the sun. Precious, intense light chases the shadows away and gives courage, energy and joie de vivre.
It emits from every fragment, from every thread, it radiates intense rainbows, small, large, endless luminous labyrinths in a thousand directions.
Flooded with light, objects, fabrics and people are transformed, they become something else, magic narrations with vaster, more universal meanings.
And so Swarovski crystals live and speak;
simple, sophisticated, elegant atoms that send luminous messages, they invite us to look for hidden beauty and light.
They remind us that real things are enlivened and ordered according to a logic that defies reason, dictated by pure wonder, to illuminate and colour the journey of our present.
Iceberg: part rock, part rebel, part aristo. Colors and shapes highlighting the rich, irreverent personality of a woman with a casual chic mindset.
Sensual, relaxed, fluid, happy.
A keen study of company archives for a fresh take on the style of a brand dating back to 1974: pioneer of a classy, upscale form of sportswear now making the biggest return ever on runways worldwide.
Knitwear with leather inserts, stud embroidery with the mark of fine craftsmanship.
The micro leather biker jacket in perfect contrast to a long skirt. For daytime too.
Suede with gorgeous stone and crystal encrustation. Graphic prints featuring geometric patterns and wallpaper influences. Cinch belts offsetting the fluidity of materials, so defining the sillhouette.
Novel color mixes: orange + fuchsia, yellow + apple green, Klein blue + black.
Essential shapes, flat volumes, cuts and graphic motifs for the next Frankie Morello woman, inspired by the frigid esthetic of the costumes from Oskar Schlemmer’s Triadic Ballet, combined with the more passionate atmosphere of ancient wrestling.
Just as in the triadic fable, the garment is conceived as a mathematically proportional correspondence between the human form and space in an abstract unification with the cosmos.
Graphic elements composed of triangles where the triad (color, form and space) interpenetrates and merges with itself to achieve perfect balance. No longer do clothes adapt to the body, but rather the body to the clothes.
Shapes: Trapezoidal dresses, calf-length trousers and skirts, boxy pea coats, oversize t-shirts.
Colors: Flesh tone, ochre, cyclamen, Matisse blue, green.
Fabrics: Douchesse, double mikado, crepe sablè , silk Lurex , organza, ottoman.
Hit the “play” button to flash images from Casinò, shifting attention, during intervals on the famous film, Two for the Road, to this Moschino Spring/Summer 2013, a screen shot of an elegant woman dressed in minimal proportions, geometric lines and high-impact graphic elements.
The desire to pay tribute to an iconic reference from the Moschino world like the two-tone of black and white with a nod to the ‘60s.
Historic colours reinterpreted with new symmetries, miniatures of dresses with different details, trompe l’oeil effects, visible embroidery and oversize buttons.
But summer also loves colour and this season’s need for colour will be answered with a bow to one of the most famous textile designers who lived in Italy; Ken Scott.
Skirts and pants with contrasting trim make the collection sharp and geometric, inlaid two-tone stripes and the fabrics, moving from fuller, rounder ones to fabrics that envelop the figure, all without forgetting the Sangallo patchwork, recalling the full sun of Italian summers.
Special attention has been dedicated to the accessory, an integral part of the dress but with a different, distinct personality for each look.
A “short” film woven with a “graphic” plot for a Moschino summer that breezily shows off your legs!
Unbound explorers. New nomads travelling from exotic lands to big metropolis with modern casualness, constantly seeking unique and emotional routes.
The transeasonal journey of Alessia Giacobino’s globetrotters for her JO NO FUI collection calls for multi-layered outfits in which proportions and texture follow afar latitudes and customs.
The Ikat print gives structure to jackets and sartorial waistcoats worn over embedded bermudas or gabardine cargo pants.
Floor long bad-dye silk dresses evoke faraway ritual ceremonies; colorful oversize sweaters pair with oriental flavored sarouel pants.
Combat pants and jumpsuits are punctuated by a military netting completing the look of an adventurer who cannot resist the whim of brass pearls trapped into hand-knitted looking cardigans. Parkas are embellished with embroidery and camouflage stains.
Colonial silk burette takes us back into the city where deconstructed masculine jackets are worn over crochet shorts and very revealing bodysuits. The exclusive suede is to be worn as a total look.
Eveningwear is ultra glamorous with golden lurex and light effects showing Ikat patterns on the sequined pieces.
A no-frontiers collection created for a woman who invents her very own personal style journey every day.
For the next summer season Andrea Incontri reinterprets the value of Italian taste that meets the world and modernity, bringing together inspiration from traditional culture and influences from far-away, exotic lands.
Sentimental, Graphic, Oriental. The collection reveals a romantically cultured and orderly attitude, where order and balance are expressed through geometric shapes printed on fabrics or woven directly into the greatly innovative textures. An image whose onset is in the color, whose primary reference is the hydrangea:
a flower that originated in the extreme lands of sun but that is also profoundly linked to the memories of the Italian Riviera in the Sixties and Seventies.
Starting from dazzling white, the palette moves towards innocent and delicate nuances – sky blue, wisteria, matte pink – in micro and macro checkers that bring back childhood memories of elementary notebooks.
A chromatic lightness that later tends towards the nighttime in the refined pairings of dark nuances of black and blue, to then surprise the monochrome with extremely sophisticated prints of floral deconstructions and reconstructions, or embroidery using vintage thread, individually created.
The collection becomes a tale of symmetry of style and function, using fabrics from classical tailoring and from the undying artisanal vision that always resurges to exalt an embedded attention and research: from woven cotton to insubstantial poplin, from printed chiffon to seersucker silk raffia, each and every surface filled with archetype meanings.
The silhouettes are studied in detail to tell the story of the dynamism of modern rhythms but also of a desire for femininity that alternates fitted bustier dresses decorated with diamond shapes with fluid and transparent evening gowns.
Volumes are often dictated by oversized garments: shirts and tunics with geometrical lines, short and wide pants, bermuda shorts inspired by boxer shorts, mini-jackets with kimono sleeves.
The shapes are straightforward yet animated by panels and folds that reconfirm the structural architecture of Andrea Incontri’s fashion code, a story he also tells in the linear blouses that take inspiration from school smocks, in the pencil skirts and mini dresses that reinvent the concept of the “little black dress”.
Finally, accessories complete the look creating strong material and visual contrast: from strappy sandals with cleated soles to pumps with double metallic buckles; from shoppers covered in seasonal prints to “college” school bags to be carried on the shoulders. Last but not least the precious bucket bag, a reminder of the small baskets geishas used to use as caskets of seduction and vanity.