Ennio Capasa, designer:
“The essence of CoSTUME NATIONAL HOMME for the Summer 2013 lies in the new wave and post punk movement which, to date, is still full of vitality and one of my main sources of inspiration.
As the soundtrack for this runway show, I chose a brand new song by Angus Stone, one from The Liars, and a fragment of David Bowie’s African Night Flight, inspired by a trip he made from London to Mombasa.
The CoSTUME NATIONAL HOMME man moves in a lightweight black leather sahariana, or in a super tailored, seamless lazer cut suit in cotton silk. This is how the rebel chic attitude is at once conveyed, and the story that I tell and that tells me, inevitably unfolds.”
NEW WAVE SAFARI
Fabrics and Leather: tradition and innovation, linen viscose and silk mixed with synthetic fiber and metal. Acetate and nylon, japanese polyester with fine titles. Exclusive designs on rustic fabrics, tone on tone prince of wales check and chevron stripes. Double ply cottons and shirt fabrics that resemble jacket fabrics.
Colors: white, stone, alabaster, lapis, navy, carbon and black.
Jackets: mix of silhouettes, sartorial and unstructured with loose fit shoulders. Mini and maxi bomber jackets, bomber jackets that turn into bags combined with super slim safari jackets. Studded leather and wool viscose, stretch cotton and viscose.
Shirt and Knits: knitwear mixed with nylon and polyester, knit and poplin shirts combined with technical fabrics.
Pants: in two different fits, oversize pleated and slim, double face shorts, oversized shorts that turn into bags.
Shoes: unstructured with pouch construction. Short shapes that mold to the foot, super soft and ultra flat. Unlined edge cutgrain leather, maxi zip detail. Gladiator sandals with San Crispino technique, desert boots and slippers, zipped derby.
Bags and accessories: soft unstructured document holders and pochettes in edge cut deer leather. Mazi zips and metal eyelets also on calf belts. I-Pad holders in hammered metal, oversized duffel bags with integrated handle that turn into maxi shopping bags. Metal sunglasses with black length.
Ermenegildo Zegna © Copyright 2012
Longing for Couture in the Spring Summer Ermenegildo Zegna collection.
The rigor of traditional Italian tailoring opens the sophisticated possibility of an eclecticism that is almost eccentric in the choice of new fabric.The mirror of the atelier returns to being an essential counterpart. With it a continuous dialogue is established, with looks that alternate between control and aesthetic reinsurance.
Now the silhouette is defined, jackets with shoulders moderately sunken, raised waist and wide lapels, all in favor of a slender figure that comes complete with high-waisted pants with the fold stitched. A construction with no uncertainties, but comfortable – which has the power to give to every man elegant allure – supported by the wide choice of fabrics which stands out among the proposed summer project Zegna Silk.
The wardrobe is that of a confident grown man and that knows the value of well-made clothes but wants to enjoy amiable eccentricities, such as all-over prints to a tropical inspiration to peep into details here and there with shirts, linings, accessories.
Colors range from classic ivory and blue, gray clouds, many shades of tobacco, teal and red.
The fabrics make the difference in full-bodied formal and cocktail suits and coats in silk taffeta, silk dubbed with perforated and laser effects iridescent shantung. The luxury alternative, a solid Irish linen. It’s a reinterpretation of the classics that draw on the feminine textures reinterpreted with the unstoppable ability to experiment with Zegna, extending up to the shirts, the most seductive in soft silk printed vintage, yarn and knitted silk and twisted mouliné.
The summer, with its dilated time, will be elegantly experienced with garments that draw on even more sporting and result in the couture blouson setting, reefer jackets and tassels made of Illusion, dubbed cottons, technical silks. Accessories are the key to this impeccable look. One cannot go wrong wearing loafers with Heritage tassels and flexible loafers in soft leather lining and – most stunning – silk patterned small banana leaves.
The bags recapture the poise, they are geometric and are inspired by luggage of the past in the details of handles, corners and rivets.
Ties in knit and silk twill and printed scarves, with a little cache, will be the final touch.
The mirror approves.
Corneliani © Copyright
MAN FALLS IN THE NET
A nappa leather trench coat with laser openwork, washed with natural enzymes to give it a well-worn, very light look. This is one of the must haves of the Corneliani Spring/Summer collection, which has reinterpreted leisurewear to reflect a style that is modern, relaxed and elegant. The jacket too is made of cotton knit, to be worn under a nappa leather, dove grey safari jacket.
The extremely precious fabrics are made by weaving shot silks and linens together and are inspired by winter tweeds. Colours are light in cool tones from mastic to brown and pearl grey, as a well as total white and total black. The supreme icon of male elegance, the suit, has also been reinterpreted in terms of shape and proportions and is now suggested for free times use.
The totally deconstructed jackets feature large shoulders and wide lapels, with soft, light trousers that have 2 or pleats. The trick is in the details: from the shirt-style sleeves to bellow pockets, from the ties to the ultra-light, matching scarves that are now an indispensable accessory.
The collection’s strength is the leather, as soft as a glove, and openwork netting in the trench coat, as well as in the shirts, i the knitwear and in the blousons with nappa leather and suede inserts that are reminiscent of the ancient armor of the Gonzaga family.
The shoes also feature openwork netting.
“To change the rules while remaining faithful to our past, we have to implement new technological procedures, working on the details, materials and fit, which must not neglect comfort and sartorial elegance,” says Sergio Corneliani, the brand’s creative director.
“I believe that in today’s world we should aim above all to make quality suits that reflect the spirit of the times we live in, but that thanks to their style can remain in the wardrobe as they transcend season and fashions.
The concept I have based this collection on is transforming leisurewear garments too into symbols of strictly Italian-made elegance.”
Pitti Immagine © Copyright
“Carven is one of France’s historic labels,” says Lapo Cianchi, Pitti Immagine director of communications and events, “and now, with Guillaume Henry as artistic director, it is enjoying a new burst of strength. His new vision for Carven menswear became immediately visible through his natural, lighthearted elegance, and his use of clean lines and fine, understated material.
We were very impressed when we went to see the Winter collection in the Paris showroom last season, it harmonized perfectly with the general trend we are promoting at Pitti Uomo: a new, sartorial elegance and affordable luxury in menswear.
Then, I met Guillaume in his studio and he struck me as a person who has held onto the curiosity, energy and spirit of observation that are the prerogatives of youth, but at the same time is fully aware of the fact that he is the standard-bearer of the great tradition founded by Madame Carven.
We are convinced that Carven and Guillaume Henry will find the right conditions for moving forward with their project here at Pitti Uomo in Florence, and we are very pleased that they have accepted our invitation”.
“Thanks a lot to Pitti Immagine to give Carven Carte blanche” – Says Guillaume Henry creative director of Carven – “This unexpected rendezvous for the house, outside of Paris and any calendars, is a true luck and a great honor.
I hope this will be the occasion to express the freshness and the spontaneity that I am looking to forward through our collections, for both men as for women. Shall we meet in Florence, in pleasure and full of joy!”