“Masculinity is not something given to you but something you gain…” Norman Mailer
Inspiration this season comes from an eclectic mix of the photographs of Amy Arbus, the films of Norman Mailer, Michael Jackson, Nineties rap stars and Maharajas crossed with New Romantics…
Big is Beautiful. The look is pumped. Volumes are exaggerated for effect. This is the maximisation of luxury.
Everything is treated as a single, precious item, elaborated with hand painting, beading and intricate embroideries of tongue-in-cheek slogans and motifs.
Knits are supersized – exaggerated with a focus on shoulders and arms, emphasising a man’s chest and slimming at the waist to create a powerful, strong silhouette. Guernseys are subverted, traditionally hand crafted with a twist.
Decadent fabrics are intrinsic to Versace. For autumn/winter 2013-14 there is shaved mink, fox, breitschwanz, cashmere and baby camel.
Hand-formed metal work and intricate beading create a uniqueness inherent to the collection, an impression emphasised by frilly stretch lace underwear, another mischievous comment on conventional notions of masculinity.
In this vein, muted, serious colours traditional to menswear become focused and twisted. There are complex ‘Fritz Lang’ jacquards in grey and black with a swirling red thread running through the patterns; traditional fabrics folded over each other and collaged into new constructions; playful takes on checks, pinstripes, herringbone and Prince of Wales.
Prints this season follow the same maximal principal: pumped macroscopic cheetah and zebra. A giant curling baroque motif creating an abstract foulard. As ever with Versace, graphic elements are important, and the collection makes much use of impactful black and white. A ‘Versace Men’ collage becomes a twisted foulard. Evening MA-1’s are embroidered and lavished with varying levels of intricacy.
Versace man, energised and sexualized, steps out for autumn/winter 2013-14 in creeper-soled loafers and elaborate motocross boots.
Special thanks to Floriana Di Carlo Photographer