Viktor&Rolf Haute Couture Autumn/Winter 2019/2020 further explores Viktor&Rolf’s notion of conscious design with emphasis on ‘Spiritual Glamour’. With the original meaning of the word ‘Glamour’ referring to that of a magic spell, an illusion said to be cast by witches. In this case, the spell is cast to transform a general feeling of doom about the environment into positive action.
Joining forces with Dutch artist-alchemist Claudy Jongstra, this collection illustrates that change for the better is indeed possible. For several decades now, Claudy has been a trailblazer of sustainability. Her hand felted fabrics are works of art, woven from wool of her own flock of sheep and dyed with natural ingredients from her own gardens. Her holistic approach demonstrates how man and nature are interconnected. A longstanding source of inspiration, it is our privilege to collaborate with this exceptional artist this season.
This collection focusses on the colour black, not just any black, but a multitude of tones centering on the darkest colour of the spectrum. Dyed by Claudy Jongstra in a gently simmering cauldron with plant pigments, her extensive knowledge and experimentation allowed for the re-discovery of the long-lost creation process the famous ‘Burgundian Black’: the most precious of true blacks based solely on natural ingredients and ancient recipes. The products of her eco-aware practice are used in a series of sculptural coats in an array of voluminous shapes.
The mood is pagan. Black felt coats give way to a series of colourful dresses in fabrics of Viktor&Rolf’s own making: vintage garments and fabrics were disassembled to threads and re-constituted as needle punch, almost like abstract paintings. Elaborate patchwork, appliqué, and crochet cultivate a handmade, ‘do-it-yourself’, almost naive aesthetic.
With creatively embroidered symbols of the sun, moon and the stars, the collection is an ode to mother nature and her powers of spiritual glamour and ecological renaissance. Christian Louboutin boots in a complementing palette complete this season’s Haute Couture AW19 look.
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