VALENTINO FALL WINTER 2020 MEN’S COLLECTION – PARIS FASHION WEEK
The meaning of romanticism, today, is different. It is in particular for men who have evolved out of enduring templates on how they should feel and how they should look like.
New contexts create new meanings. New meanings define new attitudes. In this flow, the sartorial appears to be again of pivotal value. The spirit has changed. For too long, a tailored suit has been considered a uniform, something in which to hide, something to adopt blindly and probably impersonally.
For Pierpaolo Piccioli it is the thoughtful precision of the construction, the attention to detail and ultimately the sense of intimacy of tailoring that matter. Intimacy as a serene dialogue between the individual, with what he wears, and what he wants to express with it.
Tailored jackets, coats, suits, but also sartorially inclined sportswear, are mixed in ways that do not obey to a standard rulebook. An idea of tailoring that is sensitive and romantic emerges, as a structured, lean and fluid silhouette materializes, grounded in commando-soled shoes.
The urge to express feelings is palpable in the ever personal sums of white, ivory, burgundy, lead, blue, black; visible in the romanticism of the Inez and Vinoodh’s flower images that are patched onto pieces; readable in the Melanie Matranga sentimental words magnified all over the surfaces until they become signs and abstractions.
Tailoring, ultimately, offers a vocabulary, not a way of conforming. It is about having the proper words to express oneself, following sensitivity and spontaneity.
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