The Sacai 2020 Autumn & Winter collection brings Chitose Abe’s exploration of silhouettes beyond their visual 3 dimensional forms. Playing with the idea of movement, silhouettes are seemingly one shape when standing still and change when in motion, the imperceptible contrasting weights in fabric create a surprising effect.⠀
A men’s pantsuit when stationary becomes a flowing dress as the wearer starts to walk. A familiar vocabulary of masculine clothing archetype + elegant couture-like femininity this time translates into a tweed Chesterfield coat melded with a satin ‘lady dress’ complete with playful, ironic jewellery details or with panels of the dress re-appropriated to add volume to a jacket.
The straps traditionally found as functional details on a duffle coat are re-contextualised as a strap to gather the pant cuff of a pantsuit dress hybrid, to alter the anticipated silhouette when in motion. Nordic sweater patterns are re-imagined as devore velvet thereby responding differently and making an unanticipated shape when moving.
A simple ribbed knit dress transforms into a heavier weight pant and chiffon combination on turning. The zip used to alter silhouette. Riffing on the notion of exploration beyond the third dimension with a series of NASA’s cosmic images appearing as prints.
Prints and textiles from the archive of American design icon Alexander Girard re-coloured and re-imagined for the house of sacai.
IMAGE CREDITS – RUNWAY: © 2020 Maria Valentino / MCV Photo
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