BUILD AND BREAK. BREAK AND REBUILD.
Introducing a fresh spin on diversity and sustainability, Kunihiko Morinaga builds on his playful approach to clothing construction through silhouettes composed of interchangeable, modular blocks.
From the trench coat to the MA-1 bomber, each garment is pieced together from an assemblage of geometric volumes – squares, rectangles, triangles, columns and semicircles – made to identical dimensions and proportions. Each section can then be detached and re-attached onto other pieces from the collection thanks to a system of snaps.
Cuffs transform into collars, trench sleeves clip onto the body of a lace dress, and a bodice flips to form the bottom of a skirt in this conceptual collection of pick ‘n’ mix hybrids. Possible combinations of colors and textures appear endless, spanning eco-fur, denim, Aran knit and sections of down-filled nylon puffers. The theme also extends to shoe heels made of stacked cubes.
Reconstructed from blocks of primary colors and textile patterns like argyle, houndstooth and graphic florals, voluminous silhouettes adopt a couture attitude as the designer reconfigures traditional geometric Japanese pattern-making techniques on generic wardrobe staples in bold, fun and versatile shapes. An exercise in child’s play.
For Spring-Summer 2020, Kunihiko Morinaga blurs the boundaries of 2D and 3D, recasting Instagram fashion images IRL and translating digital distortions into surrealist, wearable garments.
Preppy classics – chinos, raw denim, beige trench coats, navy blazers with crest patches, blue Oxford shirts, argyle knits, houndstooth coats, pleated skirts, white logo Ts, and cricket sweaters – parade by three by three, each one reproducing a different visual angle
as if viewed from above, below or the side.
Asymmetrical pieces twisting around the body and spilling forward on tops or curved, shortened hems underscore the notion of visual perspectives. Western classics adopt Japanese lines in warped, reconfigured constructions.
Strong shoulders on a triangular club blazer-meets-kimono telescope to a narrow waist, as if seen from above, while sleeves knot like an obi belt.
The high concept extends to the smallest details, from the morphing gradient scales of belt buckles and buttons on blazers and shirts to accessories with a new kind of slant, like flat canvas totes, quilted leather handbags, and pins and earrings shaped like side views of sunglasses and rings.
In today’s digital-junkie world, what’s real or virtual, normal or anomaly, trompe l’oeil or sleight of hand is all simply a matter of perspective.