In his fourth collection, Arthur Arbesser continues his search for a modern aesthetic – a radical elegance that engages daily with society, art and architecture.
During the design phase, Arbesser turned his attention to the work of two German artists: Blinky Palermo and Isa Genzken. The colour palette this season comes from Palermo, who also inspired in Arbesser a general desire for clean design. The work of Isa Genzken, by contrast, pushed him towards trying unusual pairings of materials, with elements such as sponge, honeycomb and waxed nylon.
One of the most interesting experiments here involves the knitwear – an important focus of the collection – with yarns of transparent nylon and 3D viscose jacquard. The uniform remains one of the themes that the designer enjoys working with. So the polo shirt and the denim jacket have been re-worked and improved using innovative solutions. The tailoring is andro- gynous but is combined throughout with a choice of light, evanescent materials, reaffirming the tension between masculine and feminine that is often present in Arbesser’s creations.
The silhouette is well-defined, and its play between space and non-space, colour and transparency, and strength and fragility should be seen as Arbesser’s personal, heartfelt comment on our image and imperfections as human beings.