For the Spring Summer 2016 collection, Adrien Caillaudaud and Alexis Martial allow a gust of sea breeze to flutter through their Parisienne’s wardrobe. Taking a fresh and dynamic stance, she adopts elements from workwear before diving into evening, taking her inspiration from the seabed.
Oscillating between close-fitting cuts and looser fits, the season’s silhouette expresses an airy elegance. « Inside-out » jackets and men’s shirts give way to a Sixties style punctuated with circular cut-outs. Dresses and tops suggest the influence of the diving suit, while pleats and frills float like the fins of an urban mermaid. A slogan t-shirt suggests the insouciance of youth, paired with a sensual short skirt. Always high-waisted, the trouser affirms its place as a mainstay of the Carven vocabulary.
Whether technical, embroidered or reworked, fabrics display the breadth of the house’s savoir-faire: mikado, jacquard fil coupé, pleated or embossed textures provide a textural contrast between structure and evanescence. A basic palette around shades of navy, black, beige and grey is brightened with lilac, Klein blue and pastels, while a dark green suggests the depths of the ocean. From these same abysses comes the inspiration for prints and ornaments, from an underwater scene to aquatic shapes and « sea urchin » embroidery.
Belts take their lead from a diving design and shoes borrow the thick rubber sole of beach sandals, perched on a square heel. In full-fronted, strappy or net versions, they bring a touch of bright colour to each look. Wrists display a Carven letter chain or a mini-bag. The Mercer bag once again features its double clasp opening and comes in a variety of shapes, always accessorized with a plethora of keyrings and snap hooks.