David Koma has always been drawn to a powerful, sensual woman but for Autumn/ Winter ’15, she is distinctly carefree and confident. Signature strictly tailored silhouettes get a new outlook with the introduction of more separates, as well as his classic dresses. The designer explores the shapes and sensibilities of the Sixties and Seventies.
This is classic Koma re-worked: trademark angular lines broken by cyclical cut outs, knitwear, macramé lace and ruffles. Longer-line skirts come with a daring split up their front, while an expertly cut jumpsuit boasts a flared leg. There’s a new sexiness and sophistication to be found here.
In striking black comes a series of buckled wool dresses, all high necklines – and even higher hemlines. Macramé knots inspired by the Op Art textile designer Barbara Brown work to reveal and conceal flashes of skin: cyclical patent leather defines tiny waists; and ruffles at the wrist and thigh are playful.
Bright orange and bold indigo are offset with classic nude tones to bring the “youthquake” couturiers André Courrèges and Pierre Cardin to mind, and other of the decade’s influences are seen in the heavily embellished Perspex and crystal finale dresses.
Malone Souliers x David Koma’s first collaboration sees sharp stilettos and space-cadet-style sandals take to the catwalk.