Mon, February 24 2020 » Fashion Blog
It is behind beauty that sometimes profound truths are hidden. Through the FENDI Women’s Autumn / Winter 2020-2021 Collection, creative director Silvia Venturini Fendi delves into the duplicity of the FENDI woman, describing the idiosyncrasies of her powerful femininity. Thus the subversive concept of “soft power” emerges, from the boudoir to the boardroom, expression of a world full of emotions and rituals.
The chromatic and textured contrasts combine shades of gray and warm neutral shades with touches of pastel colors and bright FENDI yellow. Structure and softness reign supreme, bringing to the fore a forbidden balance between severe austerity and sensual abandonment.
Through unusual contrasts and elegant monochromes, an intoxicating mix of cashmere, fur, leather and lace becomes the backbone of this season’s FENDI wardrobe. Tailoring and outerwear are built around a narrow waist; flared military coats, shiny jackets and precious blazers are structured through the bodice, with shoulders that glide to the flat tip or fall into Giulietta sleeves.
The voluptuous forms open in cozy high-necked sweaters, pleated skirts in leather and organza blouses with bib, in contrast with the rigorous lines of the nurse’s collar, the stripes of the male shirt or the details of the quilted satin and felt corset.
Revisiting the animal designs, the leopard-stained paisley peeks over sartorial garments in brushed wool and inlaid fur, embellished with a band of fringed beads or fluorescent apricot Chantilly lace. Sober and provocative at the same time, the FENDI femme fatale cannot give up audacity.
The FENDI Autumn / Winter 2020-2021 accessories collection recreates the atmosphere of the boudoir through the padded leather boots with cage and the satin pumps with strap. Available in three sizes, the new accordion design Peekaboo opens in a big smile, revealing interchangeable internal clutches in smooth and precious leather. It also appears on the catwalk in a version with golden leather fringes or applied lace profiles and pearl tassels.
In collaboration with the London brand of accessories Chaos, designed by Charlotte Stockdale and Katie Lyall, the Maison presents a line of “technological jewels” and small accessories, offering a luxurious response to the daily need to bring your own items. Nothing is missing, from the smartphone cases in woven gold mesh to the perforated FF minaudière, from the smartearplugs to the smartwatch holders.
Leather straps, zip cords and bracelets with links present an assortment of charms with letters of the alphabet, golden lighters and a minimalist set of liqueur glasses. A pen-shaped earring works on both paper and tablets.
The FENDI Women’s Fall / Winter 2020-2021 show takes place on the live notes of SONOIO, an electronic music project by Alessandro Cortini, keyboard player of the acclaimed industrial rock group Nine Inch Nails.
Mon, February 24 2020 » Fashion Blog
As an exercise in FENDI-fied classicism, the FENDI Men’s Fall/Winter 2020-2021 Collection designed by Silvia Venturini Fendi re-imagines a new normal, where ‘traditional’ garments are not always what they seem. With retro-futurist undertones, the Collection dances to its own beat of polished utility: distilling the essence of FENDI craftsmanship into a surprising wardrobe for the modern gentleman.
Alternating a sartorial canon of melton wool, heavy twill and flannel with the plush hand of shearling, flocked denim and corduroy suede, the Collection evolves through the application of trompe l’oeil fabrics and transforming proportions. Considering the garment as a body wallet – and vice versa – is a key conceit, as multi-pocket insertions in reversible outerwear, knits and tailored card holders, earphones, and even a cigar.
Inside-out constructions and quilting are traced across blazers and coats cut in compact matte satin, and outerwear shapes in waterproof gabardine are bonded with felt tabs and FENDI Roma taped seams. Double entendres abound, as sleeves or jacket hems zip off in alternating fabrications and colourways, and straight trousers or shorts are spliced with a skirt.
Picking up pieces of the FENDI puzzle old and new, the FENDI Code print interprets the FF logo as a chain link animalia pattern played in multiple abstractions of monochrome and multicolor prints or intarsias. Like a secret message, this graphic motif embodies the season’s slick 70s allure.
Accessories are a tribute to the iconic FENDI yellow. Framed in black, yellow leather shopper bags and charms inspired by vintage FENDI packaging join the Baguette and Peekaboo in handknit wool and different sizes, as well as hard and soft monogram luggage styles – together with a ‘travel Peekaboo’ inspired by 1800s trunks. High and low lug-soled boots, bucket hats and docker beanies subvert formality with an industrial elegance.
Silvia Venturini Fendi collaborates with the Japanese designer Anrealage on a selection of photochromic outerwear and accessories. As the first Ready-to-Wear designer to utilize UV colour-changing fabric technology in 2013, Anrealage creative director Kunihiko Morinaga is an industry pioneer.
The four FENDI Men’s silhouettes represent the first photochromic Menswear on a European runway and include three light-sensitive transformations across sports-inspired outerwear, mittens, inside-out tailoring, bags and accessories. When exposed to UV light a white tiger quilting shines a FENDI yellow and a white diamond quilting reveals a new FENDI Code in black.
Thu, January 23 2020 » Fashion Blog