Drenched in the warmth of an Italian sunrise, the FENDI Women’s Spring/Summer 2020 Collection designed by Silvia Venturini Fendi charts a path of playful opulence through a summer’s day. Impossible blooms and ethereal textures intertwine to trick the eye – shifting in weightless moments of FENDI craftsmanship, invoking the hidden decadence of the everyday.
Roman sensibilities luxuriate in the rub of utility with the frivolous and the ultra-feminine. A sunny palette surges into acid brights from wisps of palest pink, honey and pecan. Emerging from a waking dream, the FENDI woman delights in undone expressions of new borghese energy.
Reveling in the refraction of blown-up gingham and block-cut blanket flowers, flurries of graphic geometry invite a sensual play of transparency, perforation, weaving and knits. Pockets and hemlines float on honeycomb tulle creating artful suspensions, translating precious fur techniques into square twinset tailoring and ample jacket shapes bifurcated with diaphanous panels.
Paperbag shorts and trousers in waxed or organic washed cottons meet double-buttoned shirt coats and jackets in cotton toweling, glazed florals or rich suede. Summer fur is bonded to floral lycra or knitted as a plush check, whilst draped sheer sequins and filmy knits echo the sculptural dimensions of cloudy quilting and cloqué. A kaleidoscope of texture and tone remixes FENDI tradition with a streak of summer rebellion.
The FENDI Spring/Summer 2020 Accessories reprise the Collection’s natural materials, as the Peekaboo is woven in compact raffia, latticework leather and open weave FF logo toile. The Baguette is encrusted with blanket flower marquetry and a new short-handle tote is finished in burnished calfskin and stripe suede. Slinky knee socks match stack-heeled slingback loafers and peep-toe floral sandals.
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A stroll in the garden, reconnecting with nature as we follow gardeners in their path along a pond, under luxuriant trees. For the Men’s Spring/Summer 2020 Collection, Silvia Venturini Fendi brings the FENDI man en plein air, out of the virtual space and of the overwhelming immateriality that is so pervasive in the life of today. In a bucolic yet manual, practical dialogue between man and “the great outdoors” in which the two entities connect, the Collection conveys a breezy pragmatism through an emphasis on functionality and utility, done in the FENDI way.
The start is an earthy, muted palette of greens, beiges and browns combined with natural materials – silks, cottons, wools, cashmere, leathers, suede and denim. Sartorial workwear pieces with a uniform feel meet a certain lightness and air that makes everything weightless and fresher through strategically-placed slits and openings on roomy volumes and perforated garments. Spacious removable pockets are zippered onto place, adding another functional element. Shapes are archetypal: overalls, coats, cargo pants, long polo shirts, vests and suits of course.
Silk pipings, pervasive treillage-effect grids and nets are a celebration of the exquisite FENDI savoir-faire, including a special cut-out FENDI pattern in leather. “Botanics for FENDI” prints devised by director Luca Guadagnino, guest artist of the season, and geometric ones with a vague Kimono flavour add a painterly, gentle touch on waterproof organza. The signature FENDI FF logo and striped Pequin pattern highlight the accessories of the Collection, resulting in a skillful play of logos and textures.
The bags follow the capacious and airy feeling with big totes – in net or cut-out leather – incorporating a removable pouch bag. The Maison icons Baguette and Peekaboo appear in a wide array of variants – from the Essential to the X-Lite – and materials attentively combined together, from precious exotics to woven raffia and classic Selleria leather. The Pequin logo-non-logo also peppers a watering can and a gardening basket for an additional open-air feel.
Echoing the overall gardening mood, high-tops and trainers in canvas and rubber have been developed in collaboration with Moonstar, a Japanese authority in the field. Croco-printed loafers, sandals, boots and Mary Janes for men complete the shoes offer. Under the sun in the garden, finally, a straw hat and a Pequin wool picnic blanket are mandatory. Bottle-opener charms in the shape of gardening tools too.