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LA GARDE RÉPUBLICAINE
She heads out into the night. The late afternoon light has given way to a constellation in the sky. Her clothes feel different; the air is electric. She strides under the neon lights in a casaque jacket with a cosmic pattern. The night has patiently deconstructed each element of her Couvertures et tenues de jour carré.
Long or short; focal lengths reveal secret details. Cockades and equestrian browbands punctuate her closets. Reins trace the curves of her ultra-pencil skirt. She walks with a resolute gait, through shadows and light.
Knickerbocker jumpsuits, shorts and black leather jackets, dressage bodysuits, glove-fit trousers, sharply tailored day dresses, rhythmically pleated casaque blouses, and double-faced coats: the classic and the eccentric — hand in hand.
Here she is, at the very heart of her long journey. Everything appears more clearly defined. She makes her way through the charcoal night, surrounded by the sounds of romance.
Bathed in red moonlight, she smiles. The night belongs solely to her.
Tue, March 5 2019 » Fashion Blog
Sat, February 2 2019 » Fashion Blog
Watch the Hermès Fall Winter 2019 Men’s Fashion Show in Live Streaming – Paris 19th January 2019 at 8 PM CET. Stay Tuned! #HERMESHOMME
Fri, January 18 2019 » Fashion Blog
Tue, July 3 2018 » Fashion Blog
And this is the beauty of enchanting gardens they do not intrude. They inspire a new dream. Their tree bark is a material that seems familiar, but when you touch it… it surprises you. Never quite being what we are expected to be. Being in this garden with the intimate knowledge of all its paths and deviating from them.
Fifty-four women enter a winter garden at twilight. Walk in this light where you cannot distinguish whether you are inside or outside. Floating in between, a gang of girls in blue-black. Each of them brings something personal to the group, an intimate self-assurance that owes nothing to anyone.
The light has faded, the time has come to capture the signs, signs of such density. The details of the pièces turn them into instant enigmas. Is that a bag there? No, it’s a shawl. The button on this Canadian coat? A clou Médor, of course. Look for long enough and you will find it everywhere. A leitmotif of Hermès leather goods, which finds itself inexplicably in the sharp triangles of Navajo patterns, and inspires lines and geometric shapes in movement.
In this garden of another nature, water-repellent calfskin is akin to leather, jersey embraces fur, light deerskin meets ribbed supple mink. Ribbed velvet-style knits choose a straight line and then change their path; taking a diagonal. Quilting reassures, protects and armours; coats have three pleats forming an almost invisible line on a low-set pocket.
Informal details are added to this natural, whispered sophistication; a climbing cord, or a chain that suddenly serve as fastenings. Thigh high boots seamlessly drenched in colour: andalusite-green, ultra-marine, and orange. Beneath this dream lies a rubber sole. If the sky is the limit, we never abandon the earth. We are there for her. So that, for once, shocking pink is not the enemy of auburn.
Along the footpaths, around the squares, walk fifty-four women. They wear dresses worn close to their skin, waists accentuated; their light leather coats floating in the autumn light. Fifty-four women together enact graceful and gentle movements. No more constraints.
The present is not a problem, it’s a mystery. In the electronic half-light, someone is playing Debussy. I’ll wait for you, for water, ice and fire.
Wed, March 7 2018 » Fashion Blog
Watch the Hermès Fall Winter 2018 Fashion Show in Live Streaming – Paris 3rd March 2018 at 6.00 PM ( Paris Time ). Stay Tuned!
Sat, March 3 2018 » Fashion Blog
Open air, warmth, generous volumes. Playful natural fabrics and technical materials. Eveningwear with mineral nuances, large and small polka dots.
Grey, navy, greyish green, chrome green, quartz, black. Bright overtones: royal blue, hazelnut, oxidized green, raspberry, cobalt, mahogany, chartreuse, bubble gum pink.
Wraparound coats, double-breasted coats, three-button coats. Parkas, trench coats with removable collars in sheepskin, blousons with ribbing, straight blousons, hooded blousons, sweat-shirts, blousons with knitted shawl collars, blousons with a bomber spirit. Straight or double-breasted suits, three-button jackets, double-breasted jackets, padded jackets with drawstring back and staggered topstitching.
Pullovers with round collars, oversize pullovers, raglan pullovers with buttoned collars, high neck pullovers. Shirts with straight collars, shirts with supple collars, shirts with high neck contrasted collars, shirts with ridged ribbing, shirts with playful pleats. Very narrow trousers, wide trousers with elastic waist and leather bottom cuff, pleated trousers.
Combed mohair, compact double wool, 180 compact wool, technical wool felt. Two-tone quilted Toilbright, Toilovent, technical stripes and herringbone pattern. Reversible Toilovent and rubberised lambskin, rubberised lambskin with topstitching, endless road design rubberised lambskin with sabré technique, grained calfskin with brazilian horses silkscreen lining, patinated calfskin, babylamb with contrasted topstitching, sheepskin.
Cotton and wool with herringbone pattern and leather detail, supple cashmere flannel, technical wool, reversible cotton jacquard with polka dots, silk tie jacquard with polka dots, wool braiding with checks. Extra-fine cashmere with saddler topstitching, cashmere and silk with contrasted stripes, cashmere with playful ribbing, pop tv wool, endless road cashmere, wool and cashmere with two-toned arrows, tweed and stripes.
Cotton poplin, cotton and cashmere twill, cotton jacquard with polka dots, cotton with liquid tartan scarf print, silk. Supple cashmere flannel, wool broadcloth and cashmere, wool flannel, wool and mohair canvas, technical wool, stretch gabardine, cotton and wool with herringbone pattern, technical wool cover, cotton or silk jacquard with polka dots.
Sat, February 17 2018 » Fashion Blog
It’s a collection in continuous evolution, constantly transformed by notions which arrive to challenge the primary idea; like a road trip where colours, shapes mutate in different landscapes. An astonishing pink, fuschia or “porcelain”, chosen specifically for its dialogue with a kraft brown sweater in knitted cotton viscose.
It’s a summer season which lets itself be guided by a principle of uninhibited classicism where the silhouette is more marked, and the waist underlined and smocked.
The practical utility of uniforms celebrates the nobility of the craft which is the history of this house, taken as another starting point: pragmatic habits – of life.
Giving meaning to the garment. The surface is considered as quilted prints, a tribute to the saddler world of Hermès. Then it all changes, becomes more fluid. These clothes should become our dear friends.
There are links. Mercerized cotton pieces that so closely unite leather panels in shiny calfskin one by one – to form a jalousiewhich then opens a conversation with the ready-to-wear, this double face knitted silk, this silk cigaline. Everything is symbolic. Here the uniform has left a few traces – the robustness of materials such as compact cotton satin, the obvious simplicity of denim cotton drill milled for a jacket or a straight edge coat.
There are the beginnings, a tangled maze of kinetic patterns which deliberately twist the Cavalcadour print originally created by Henri d’Origny for Hermès. The illustrator Nigel Peake, has chosen his own diversions, raising his pencil to hatch this original pattern on a phantom pleated knit skirt or a long coat in taffeta stripes painted with a camouflage which is just the opposite. But there is also a strong control resting on these pillars, these high-waisted men’s pants encrusted with silk moiré ribbons with metal hardware.
There is vulnerability. The tenderness of bias cuts for apron dresses which escape into a myriad of triangular panels or which tame a long black and pond green dress in cloquée silk jacquard. Here delicate hands have worked on cut yarn shirts, dresses embroidered with fur stitches, accidents of softness.
Thu, November 3 2016 » Fashion Blog
Wed, June 24 2015 » Fashion Blog
Watch the Hermès Fall/Winter 2015 Women’s Fashion Show in Live Streaming – Paris 9th March 4.30pm. The fashion show will mark the debut of Nadège Vanhee – Cybulski, new Artistic Director of the ready to wear woman Hermès. Stay Tuned!
Photo credit: Inez and Vinoodh
Tue, March 10 2015 » Fashion Blog