February 2015, Issa presents Autumn/ Winter at One Great George Street, London. The brand’s first Collection under the Creative Direction of Jamie O’Hare explores the confidence and sensuality of the Issa woman. Animal prints and fringing allude to her wild side, but the fluid fabrics, slivers of exposed skin, and attitude with which she stalks the runway, make this a polished rather than bohemian interpretation of the sauvage.
Print inspiration came from aerial views of the graphic patterns in the desert made by the Bahrain race track; interpretations of these patterns weave through the collection in diverse fabrications and techniques; prints in black, white and red are patchworked against animal print on an embroidered shift dress, woven and knitted on jacquard coats and separates, and embroidered on hemlines and stone encrusted dresses. Subtle black, white, navy and blue base colours are enlivened with bright red, topaz and chartreuse.
The mixing of contrasting prints and patterns is prevalent throughout; a crocodile effect jacquard coat is worn with abstract leopard print trousers, whilst a race track inspired knitted blanket coat is belted over a leopard print top. Patterns are also juxtaposed on the brand’s signature pieces; a knitted dress features contrasting print panels in leopard and paisley, and a roll neck jersey wrap dress features varying floral prints pieced together to create stepped hems.
Differing jersey fabrications are combined to progress the brand’s signature draping; sheer, opaque and shine jersey panels combine in wrap dresses and tops constructed from asymmetric panels that lend a modern fluidity to the silhouette.
The subtle reveal of skin is a recurring collection theme, through lace and sheer paneling on trousers and dresses, cut outs on knitted tops, and embroidered dresses that disclose a glimpse of the body beneath. This is a collection that comes alive in movement; a suspended back dress appears to float, slashes on a long dress reveal the legs when walking, and dresses and coats feature stepped fringing that flows and floats in the wearer’s wake.