A day at the opera. This is how John Varvatos describes his Spring/Summer 2015 collection, alluding to Queen’s iconic record “A Night at the Opera.”
“I wanted to take formal ideas inspired by evening pieces and approach them with a casual attitude for the day time, exploring a new idea of youthful and sexy elegance,” says the designer.
“I mixed classic sensibility and a loose, romantic attitude. The idea of bringing evening to the day is explored by introducing formal, in a non-literal and quite modern way.”
“The image is elegant, while at the same time romantic: crinkles, washed suede and hand-made rough accessories draw a very chic figure. The result is a young and energetic new way of dressing during the day, drawn from the formality of evening-wear.”
The collection is characterized by a smooth and dressy allure, dominated by an alternation between a loose attitude and refined, yet confident lines.
A yearning for relaxed elegance pervades most of the outfits that are extraordinarily light in weight and feel: proper cuts and expert tailoring create the idea of a romantic attitude through fabrics that have been sophisticatedly degradé woven and coated, for a contemporary naturalness.
The silhouette is stylishly well defined, yet constantly comfortable, with a twist: coated and waxed linen cutaway jackets are paired with slim trousers to complete a nonchalantly proper shape.
The confident, yet comfortable cutaway construction is emphasized by inner wire that allows one to shape the collar. Flawless jacquard wool/silk suits are modernized in lightness, through unique finishing for a refined and innovative construction.
The rigor of evening tradition opens up to informal possibilities. Elements of man’s evening wardrobe are interpreted in personal views: tuxedo jackets get a lived-in patina with a shifting degradé effect that looks printed, but is actually woven.
Trousers add a contemporary feel to the look: dress pants, as well as, slim fitting jeans draw an energetic figure. The play on opposites is resolute: coated and waxed waist coasts and vests, worn under suits and cutaways, give a visually strong silhouette.
Stylish and sensual tuxedos, as well as sleek three piece suits express a contemporary and confident vibe, and are invariably worn with tank tops and long, degradé effect silk scarves replacing shirts and neck-ties.
An embossed snakeskin motorcycle jacket punctuates the collection with an edge that is synonymous with a rock “n roll sensibility. A tactile and soft jacket gets a sweater look through linen and metal for a touch of sensual sophistication.
The play of refinement and ease, mixing day and evening, is highlighted by proper details: zippers stand out on masculine trousers; bone buttons enrich jackets to punctuate the nonchalantly elegant figure.
Meticulous attention to cut and detail go hand-in-hand with research on patterns. The play of textures completes the idea of a return to elegance with a quintessential dash of toughness and youth.
Style, line and function come together in a harmony of fine materials and masterful craftsmanship. The color palette is understated and sophisticated: from off-white to a myriad of grey shades, to khaki and black.
The color wheel is highlighted by flashes of russet and military green. Fabrics and yarns are soft, yet roughly lived in, intense and tactile: coated and printed linen, cotton, washed suede, brushed vacchetta and embossed snakeskin.
Accessories include supple, contemporary, hand dyed brushed leather boots with canvas and metal detail, laceless studded wingtips. Natural vacchetta, or embossed snakeskin totes and bags are enriched with artisanal touches such as coated weaves and exposed stitching.
Calfskin suspenders with metal details and new timeless sunglasses complete the masculine look.