Imagining his own Utopian summer, a sensual and indolent season of southbound cruises and explosions of color, Bruno Sialelli’s Lanvin spring / summer 2020 collection ‘Plein Soleil’ is an ode to idleness summer days.
Despite reminiscences of the 50s and 70s – of Marella Agnelli, Lee Radziwill and Bianca Jagger when the ocean was a second skin, the sun a living God, and incessant voyages were de rigour for jet set – the house of Lanvin sets sail on a new journey into the future.
The heart of Lanvin now beats to the tempo of an open era, where gender fluidity and diversity are part of the usual vocabulary as the mix of genres in forty-five menswear and fifteen womenswear silhouettes attest. Sailing between Taormina, Capri and the Greek islands, Sialelli diverts the codes of his “catamaran bourgeoisie” mischievously by opting for a form of naivety in masculinity.
Charming boys wear silk cardigans or oiled short coats with boy scout cotton shorts and gladiator shoes; cargo pants and cross jackets with oversized sailor collars; tunics and bags in XXL nautical pennants are playfully redesigned for the occasion where the emblems of the house – JL initials and daisies – make a discreet appearance in these Lanvin flags. Introduced in Bruno’s first collection for the house, the figure of Babar reappears as a reassuring and twisted fetish of childhood.
Lanvin blue is the main colour for summer. The historical shade of the house (Jeanne Lanvin worked with a palette of 18 different tones) is paired with the colours of the sun and sand – ochres, oranges, tobaccos and yellows. Sialelli looked to the archives for outerwear tailoring – blue wool gazar duffle coats inspired by Jeanne Lanvin couture opera coats – while suits come in striped seersucker or with all-over sequins, effortless chic without dressing up.
Accessories slip naturally into the collection. A sailor’s bag made of canvas, faded by the sea spray, and another in duvet down – as spectacular as they are ingenious – are essential companions to the bag of the season, the Hook Bag. Adorned with delicate leather marquetry and hand-painted hot air balloons, this season’s Hook Bags telescope between authenticity and refinement, between sensuality of the street and ultra-elegance.
Art deco pendants borrow from an art deco motif found in Jeanne Lanvin’s bathroom; malachite crocodile shaped cuffs shine brightly between travel inspired oversized charm necklaces with miniature suitcases and explorer tools.
Following in the steps of Jeanne Lanvin, a fashion pioneer who explored the world in her time – Venice, Toledo, Egypt and the Borromean Islands – Lanvin girls head out from Capri to Goa in long, silk, psychedelic printed dresses giving an Indian allure to the Lanvin women’s silhouettes. Like Lanvin men, they adopt a relaxed and luxurious approach, effortless and refined.
Thu, June 27 2019 » Fashion Blog
LANVIN “MYSTIC PILGRIMS”
The 13th century Musée de Cluny plays host to the first Women’s and Men’s collection designed by Bruno Sialelli for the house of Lanvin, sublimating the illustrious heritage of the Parisian maison in the midst of its own renaissance. As the first true purveyor of lifestyle, Lanvin encompasses a prismatic vision of fashion. Contemplating the life and times of our founder Jeanne Lanvin, a vital optimism permeates this respectful evolution – acknowledging the maison as a florilegium of creative energy.
Embodying a folkloric spirit, the Fall Winter 2019 collection roams from the Rue Saint-Honoré to Brest and far beyond, reminiscing upon cinematic and literary personas through history. Reviving Lanvin’s playful narrative in a symphony of romantic archetypes, Sialelli draws upon a multitude of moods: from nautical to bucolic, regal to childlike, the collection personifies lyrical conversations in cloth.
Pre-Raphaelite colours depart from Lanvin ‘quattrocento’ blue into powdery shades of avocado, absinthe, banana and bergamot warmed by mahogany, navy, tomato and a blaze of ultraviolet. Inciting pure comfort and a suite of leisurely pursuits, classic shapes are spliced with sensual fabrications, as Norwegian blankets, exotic Fair Isles, and giant clan tartans swaddle inherently French garments.
‘Whole garment’ knits create sinuous volumes shaped in cashmere and lurex, whilst the vareuse from Brittany, the heart-collar caban, zipped blousons and riding coats are rendered in cashmere, gabardine, intarsia shearling or wool gazar. Passing from myths to modern fairy-tales, graphics flit from Paul Iribe’s logo La femme et l’enfant (1924) on stamped muslin to mosaic monogram pyjama silks and delicate marguerite micro-florals.
Evoking the whimsy of Cécile and Jean de Brunhoff’s Babar the Elephant books, illustrated scenes float over crewneck twinsets and foulard riding boots, whilst tufted hares and foxes frolic across transparent tulle. Sensuous and in perfect symmetry, shaped necks and contoured sleeves impart blouses or dresses with a medieval line, as the scrolling imprint of illuminated manuscripts is writ large across
Faded Merovingian splendour is woven throughout, from gilded leather amulets and dipped thimble rings to St. George’s dragon resplendent on embroidered velvet. Voluminous kaftan gowns trail with linings inside and out, layered with bands of lace, pleated satin, and portrait print georgette.
Lanvin’s muse is embellished with abandon, adorned from head to toe with heraldic charm jewellery and porcelain chokers, fruit minaudières and salome wedges in Viennese metalwork. Grounding the season’s mystic vision, satchels, flat totes and asymmetric bucket bags are crafted in supple suede, canvas and calfskin to match fringed tennis shoes, studded clogs and moulded moccasin boots.
Fri, March 1 2019 » Fashion Blog
“For summer 2019, I wanted to go beyond streetwear, to find a new form of sophistication, to place value on design and craftsmanship. I wanted to rediscover a more intimate form of luxury,” Lucas Ossendrijver, the artistic director of menswear at Lanvin, explains.
Elements confront each other in every silhouette of this collection, which showcases a new attitude. “There are contrasts between daytime and evening, colour and black, structure and softness, flatness and volume”, Lucas continues. References and universes combined. Everywhere, the details put forth a look, a movement: on a parka, woven striped satin is applied onto a cotton veil.
A suit with an almost military appearance incorporates the feeling of a tuxedo. A simple strip of fabric sewn between the outside and inside of a bomber jacket inflates the garment and gives it volume: it’s a constant game between full and flat forms. As for the blazers, they disrupt the evening feel: on a model in grain de poudre, an offbeat satin yoke is placed on the shoulder. On another tailcoat, this time the satin appears on the sleeve.
On the same design, the satin hangs towards the front. Underneath a jacket the collar is gathered giving the appearance of a hood. The look is versatile, hybridization reigns: tops are constructed by taking the back of a shirt and the front of a T-shirt in cotton crepe. Due to the craftsmanship of the cut, they can be worn on both sides.
In turn, a mesh fisherman’s waistcoat or a quilted cotton vest lined with satin is placed on top, recalling protective clothing. Once worn, these pieces mix and lines become blurred. Even though an impression of softness is suggested, the silhouette is nevertheless controlled, sophisticated. Poetry contrasts graphic effects, where stripes subtly stand alongside floral prints and metal rose necklaces.
Both colour and material confront one other: wool and velvet; mint green, brown, and blue violet; lavender and bright red. This season, a tattoo artist has imagined prehistoric animal drawings, mystical symbols, where stars and insects form an imaginary encyclopaedia, printed on silk or viscose shirts.
Trainers with vulcanized soles, pieces in velvet or striped canvas, a tuxedo belt designed as a belt bag or hand-painted with flowers… The accessory collection is also complemented by these contrasts. Garments mingle with giant pieces, like huge moving bags draping asymmetrically.
More than ever, the jewellery is talisman-like: bracelets with hammered and varnished finish and necklaces which hide secrets and constellations within metal balls or on the back of reversible medallions.
Tue, July 3 2018 » Fashion Blog
Fri, March 2 2018 » Fashion Blog
“I focused on the most classic, almost passé item, drawn directly from the legacy and origin of the Lanvin man: the suit. What is a suit? Two pieces, a jacket and trousers, cut from the same fabric. I wanted to deconstruct this idea, using layering. For me, these combinations make a modern suit. I wanted to create a smokescreen. “
For Lucas Ossendrijver, Lanvin Menswear Creative Director, the season is all about where modernity and sartorial tradition meet. From the most classic English fabrics is born a brand new, hybrid and urban look. The shape of a suit is precise with no shoulder pads, a narrow waist, a broader back and ironed-in pleats. Here however everything has a different take: a finely striped coat has military jacket detailing.
The suit trousers worn with it, cut in the same fabric, are like combat pants: cotton inlay, gusseted pockets, velcro. A part-technical, part-suit parka jacket sports an asymmetric zip around the collar to reveal the detail of a shirt and jacket. Elements mix up in a new play on fabrics. Stripes and checks match and clash on the edge of abstraction. The shapes meld, only distinguishable thanks to a few contrasts. Urban details are many in this wardrobe that has been as meticulously produced as ever.
For Lucas Ossendrijver, a suit is also a form of camouflage. He toys with prints: animal outlines, plant, tree and flower patterns mix together, from the most natural colours to the most nocturnal, almost toxic. Inspired by outdoor wear, fleece jackets and coats are designed like big covers. Asymmetric knits are draped and worn with wide sleeve-shaped scarves.
Combat pants are combined with a soft, quilted leather bomber jacket. An entirely hand-painted shearling sweatshirt is worn over a suit. On a reflective leather parka jacket, the shearling-lined collar turns into a hood. Stripes, threads and studs, traditional and technical fabrics, military and urban details: everything is layered together without ever clashing…as if it was always meant to be.
The same research was carried out for the accessories. The soles of the shoes were developed in 3D whilst the sneakers have heat-sealed relief inlay. ID badges, worn across the chest, are in transparent lizard skin whilst the bags evoke map cases and lunch boxes. Jewellery is layered like lucky charms, in raffia or burnt straw.
Tue, February 13 2018 » Fashion Blog
For summer 2017, Bouchra Jarrar, creative director of Lanvin, presents her vision of woman. This first catwalk show unveils her vocabulary with allure and style: « This first season at Lanvin is an opening.»
« I’ve been exploring the paths of sensuality and intimacy, building clothes around the body, unveiling and veiling the silhouette. I’m searching for essential and harmony. I love to dress women, to reveal them to themselves, to sublime them, to cross borders between feminity and masculinity. Hence a wardrobe which shall evolve and echo itself from one season to the other »
Silk chiffon ; silk georgette ; satin and mirror satin ; crepe de chine ; asymmetrical lace ; organza.
Tweed ; mirror jersey ; albene.
Dipped lambskin ; cracked python.
Cristals embroderies ; silvergilt chains ; chain mail ; embroidered flowers.
Lavallière dress ; Modesty dress ; tied waist dress
Sleeveless coat ; trench coat ; shawl collar coat ; double lapple jacket ; perfecto jacket.
Plastron shirt ; spencer jacket ; tuxedo.
Jewelled shoes ; jewelled bags in water snake leather
Wed, October 5 2016 » Fashion Blog
Sat, October 17 2015 » Fashion Blog
« The homage to Jeanne Lanvin at the Museum Galliera museum made me feel the need to go back to my own roots, to Morocco, where I was born ». Alber Elbaz
Opulent and strict. Dry and warm. Raw and precious. Black and white. Collarless and buttonless. Graphic and unexpected. Opaque and transparent. Lean and oversized. Masculine and feminine. Berber stripes and floral motifs.
Panne velvet and boiled alpaca, washed silks, real matte python and faux python in glossy lambskin. A patchwork of textures, honey colored sensations and sweet nectars.
Colors of etchings and soil: red pomegranate, blue ink, cinnamon and deep burgundy, brown, grey and black baked in the sun.
From the city to the desert, an easterly wind blows over the metropolis: a wind that makes you want to wrap up in a long sharp-edged blanket coat, a vest in oversized Tibetan goat or in a pair of lamé saffron and gold pyjamas.
Calling on all desires, from the most opulent to the most graphic – the gloss and the matte skim each other – superimposed in an endless game of contrasts… a Lanvin signature.
Under striped woollen capes, we find brocade chiffon dresses with passementerie belts, silk braiding, plaited tassels, toggle fastenings and gold cords.
The Lanvin Winter 2015 collection is an invitation to urban travel.
The LANVIN NOMAD handbag follows this wind in grained lambskin, black ostrich, ink-colored nubuck calfskin and caramel python. True luxury is a look, a hand, a needle and a thread.
Tue, June 23 2015 » Fashion Blog
Wed, February 18 2015 » Fashion Blog
Sun, September 28 2014 » Fashion Blog