Les Hommes Autumn/Winter 2013 collection starts with a journey, entering a black cube which both conceals and celebrates the majesty of Palazzo Serbelloni. Revival of an unforgettable moment of extreme beauty.
The memory goes to the absolute aesthetics of Luchino Visconti’s The Damned with the impeccable interpretations of Dirk Bogarde and Helmut Berger. The masterpiece celebrating the dissolution of an epoch and the shatter of its charm.
This is the starting point of a collection that, without any sign of nostalgia, stresses the perfection climax right before its collapse and tries to convey it to our time and to the radical revolutions we are currently undergoing.
The atmosphere is somber, romantic and celebratory, while dark colours and lavish silk and velvet communicate exquisite luxury. The focus is on tailoring. The jackets are a hybrid, born from illusory double-breasted blazers and field jacket-tuxedos.
When black and white graphic motifs, diamond patterns and rose tapestry give life to prints and fabrics, the reference to Deco design is tangible, as if the best of a Berlin house interior from the Thirties would become a suit.
The heart of the inspiration is an oxymoron, a blend of opposite terms: military and delicate. Uniforms become gentle, soft and fluid and invade this celebrative field as a lulling march.
The final step of an ascending staircase that encourages one to dress venturing in overlaying to celebrate the peak of male elegance.