As in the children’s drawings, where the proportions are subjective. Where objects or people are represented without thinking about how they really are. Change the proportions of things. Enlarge them and reduce them as you wish. An explosion of shapes that dictates new rules.
The brooch on the sweaters is so oversized that it is no longer the detail, but the protagonist. Garments and accessories as if they were enlarged by a copier. The shoes have stilettos larger than 200 percent, and the result is a game of curved and wide lines, almost like a comic book.
The knitting stitch is giant, almost exploded. So also that of the stitching of jackets and skirts. The micro doll coats, the sweaters; everything is disproportionate. The typical zipped men’s wallet is no longer a pocket accessory, but a mini bag with handles and shoulder strap.
It is the magic of a girl who no longer plays with her mother’s wardrobe, but creates a new one for herself. The lady like becomes a completely personal fun, mixing macro and micro.
Ciao is an Italian word that is understood worldwide. It is a greeting and a way to present yourself: we can say CIAO to everyone without fear of being misunderstood. Today, fashion rushes ahead at the same speed: it makes itself understood and needs no explanation, filters or intermediaries.
Not even a designer, who is eternally balancing his obsessions and desire for renewal, always knows where his ideas will take him, because they often arrive at the speed of a CIAO. Above all, like a CIAO, they won’t give any explanation yet are nevertheless understood.
The MEN’S FW20/21 collection is born out of my conviction that a focus on the product reflects the times and is a message to the future through the details that created it in the present.
If I cannot own a photo by Man Ray, but I do not settle for its reproduction on paper, then I’ll think up an embellishment of that image on a bag, making sure that, bead after bead, its craftsmanship preserves its authenticity over time.
The same operation is done on a loden coat, with pleating that creates new volume, or on a gray wool suit with a stunning “Vivaldi-style” bow on the back that attenuates its austere appearance, on tartan boucle that exaggerates a classic woman’s jacket or on a little striped cardigan with a fur stitch that exasperates the volume.
Everything was created to blend elements in a garment that carries them into the future through indications of their designer’s modern mindset and attitude.