Stars from the Stars
This season at Moschino Jeremy Scott ventures deep into Area 51 territory to concoct a collection that puts conspiracy theory into fashion practice. What if extra-terrestrials really did walk among us? What if Marilyn Monroe really was knocked off by the feds to stop her spilling the beans about her Roswell pillow talk with JFK?? And – deep breath – wasn’t Jackie O too perfect to be human???
The parallel narratives of the paranoid are deployed by Scott to create a collection that’s so real it’s unreal. Our first contact comes via a series of out of this world dresses and separates that mix just so mid-century daywear with the cut and zippers of the iconic Moschino biker jacket.
The colors are pumped: Scott ventured beyond the realms of Pantone this season to discover powerful shades that have fallen into disuse. Some looks feature wide vertical stripes, others touches of leather, and yet other sports-touched looks come in a three colorway, cracked zig-zag brocade. A Moschino foulard print is twisted with polka-pixels. We see Venus in faux furs. Everything’s matchy-matchy. She’s fabulous – and she’s not from around here.
Further frazzle is delivered thanks to this season’s capsule collection, a collaboration with the awesome Australian artist Ben Frost. His hyper-stylised images of feminine ‘perfection’ collaged with the packaging of the products with which we self-medicate in this consumer age work perfectly on cute handbags, gamine dresses, to-die-for phone cases and more – buy ‘em now!
The daywear has landed – we orbit to night. We see a series of siren dresses and tuxedos that come slashed, chopped, hybridised and collided and mix metallics and sequins, crystals and silks. They combine goddess gathering from the first great age of Old Hollywood glamour with a hot-pink hello to Marilyn Monroe plus looks from a later, more empowered age – as if some new arrival had processed the humanity’s entire red-carpet history at hyperspeed then materialised the best of it all together.
These are looks fit for a star from the stars. Plan Nine from outer space. The Truth? It’s Out There! Believe.
Watch the Moschino Fall Winter 2018-19 Fashion Show in Live Streaming – Milan 21st February 2018 at 8.00 PM Milan time. Stay Tuned…! (more…)
Clothes help bind us to our gender. They define us. But confine us? For Fall Winter and Pre-Fall 2018, Moschino teases, tests and twists the conventional boundaries of masculine and feminine in search of re-evaluation, liberation, and stimulation. Jeremy Scott says: “For this collection I wanted to play around with the idea of mixing masculine and feminine in an assertively subversive way. So as well some overt dress codes of gender – maybe pent-up pinstripe suiting for her, florals, lace and frou-frou for him.”
For Pre-Fall Moschino’s womenswear collection, Scott’s story features the firm smack of fetishised discipline; tailored jackets and pants, a dress, a white men’s shirt, and a parka all worn under PVC body-stockings and gimp masks. Some of these pieces are decorated with safety-pin attached patches on which words in tabloid font shout suggestively; “STUD”, “FETISH”, “X-rated”, “SPANK”, “PLEASURE”, “PAIN”, to name a few. Other pieces – like a Hepburn-perfect green tweed coat – come apparently unadorned until you investigate the attached corset on the back. Spaghetti-strapped, lace-edged black slip dresses are teamed with a tabloid-patch high-cut bomber jacket or tricep-high PVC gloves that gleamingly highlight the articulation of the limb.
A nuanced feminine overture sees Scott set on the appropriation and reprogramming of some of masculine clothing’s most fixed formal algorithms. The cummerbund is retooled as the center of gravity for a fitted black dress, teamed with a high-fronted tail-coat whose tails morph into button-holedold-school men’s suspenders. Suspenders – clipped and elasticated this time – are similarly deployed as unexpected masculine accents to hold up the bodice of a PVC booted bad-girl-show-girl look. Pinstripe or plain black tuxedos, reduxed and recut, are smokingly subversive; cut-away panels, inverted double armholes and midriff-hinting high waistcoats undercut the externalised language of formal masculinity with feminised depth. A pinstripe jacket is slashed apart across the sternum and held aloft – along with the bodice beneath it – by more suspenders.
One overtly decorative element is a series of pretty-silhouette dresses in often pleated printed silk crepe. The twist? Those prints, often abstracted by the in and out folds of the fabric, reproduce the sensually illicit Polaroids of Italian furniture designer Carlo Mollino. As well as a fiercely independent designer, Mollino had a secret passion for photographing always-anonymous one-time-only models in poses of apparent wantonness – here Scott takes these male-gaze made erotic images and reappropriates them for the female wearer.
The almost – but-not-quite – crescendo for Pre sees a series of archetypally feminine gowns in maroon velvet or black silk played against a black strapless gown that features a bias cut train cut in the shape of an enormous black satin glove.
Just as Scott articulates his much in his female looks via a language conventionally deemed masculine, so he inverts the process in Moschino’ s Autumn Winter 2018 menswear collection.
Here the story features with less slap, more tickle. Mirroring Pre, we see those tabloid-font patched parkas and tailored pieces reissued, all worn below equestrian helmet-caps that whisper of the riding crop. Tailcoats are cut away at the shoulder and then held up by suspender. The bad-girl-show-girl look is mirrored in an ensemble of tailcoat (whose tail is feminised with soft gather and fold) cummberbund, and black PVC underpants. An artificially unfinished pinstripe double breasted jacket is delivered with just one breast, to be worn jauntily off-the-shoulder. Tailcoats and tailored pants come in ditzy floral, while in outerwear more conventionally masculine fabrics – gray tweed, russet wool – are lent a jolt of gender-fluidity via the insertion of panels and trains in floral or jewelled boucle at the back.
Moschino woman and Moschino man come together – conjoined by a tandem tuxedo jacket built for for two and linked at the tail. Apart yet together. Mutual objects of opposition and attraction. Women and Men.