Urgent and uninhibited, the Mugler collection for Spring Summer 2020 ignites a bold discourse of human sexuality in our hypermodernist world. Charting the full spectrum of streamlined shapewear, Casey Cadwallader proposes a sentient representation of the Mugler identity: one granted with the clarity of choice and the freedom of self-expression.
By fusing archival leitmotifs of construction with new developments in garment-making, the collection embodies a liberated, sculptural quality. The historical foundation of the corset is rebuilt as a second skin – now supple and forgiving, it reveals the technical prowess of the Mugler atelier. Encrusted in tailoring, the hourglass silhouette continues as lingerie sheaths with a textured translucence reflected in engineered hosiery and harness gloves.
Controlled volumes counter this delicate armour, from puffed drawstring shells to breezy scarf blazers, slashed column and dropped ruffle skirts. Trousers lift and shape in paneled crepe, tailored wool, and new zipped spiral denim. In a softer play of asymmetric drape, placed ombré prints in shirred jersey and satin separates resolve the collection’s blocked, colour theory – mingling warm and cool shades from acid yellow and cornflower to burgundy, violet or ultra blue.
Sleek chrome accents define footwear and jewellery, as fountain chain switches and laced knifepoint sandals reflect the season’s cerebral sex appeal.
Swirling with otherworldly promise, the Fall Winter 2019 collection by Casey Cadwallader for Mugler vibrates with a savage alchemy – implanting magnificent architectures with a primal and aerodynamic elegance. In a call-and-repeat of decadent pattern and incisive structure, the silhouette pulses with complex densities and controlled volume. In acid and earth tones, mercurial graphic studies read animal, vegetal, and mineral.
Warping through a marbled stratum of natural stimuli, mixed media textiles soften the innate sharpness of turbo-charged tailoring in a macro-dose of tapestry, amoebic florals, and stained-glass leather. From chaotic patchwork to blurred print, silk georgettes and cloque wool jacquards create ruched incrustations in curving ‘trap’ dresses, as panelled columns cascade with fringed volants.
Peplum coats and zipped dolman blousons evolve hourglass shapes and bonded finishes, their flare echoed by smocked taffeta and compression corsetry built into flounced jersey dresses. Worn over snap-stud cargos and bootcut trousers, second-skin separates are embroidered in splashes of Mako beading or embossed with contoured stripes. The season’s organic energy is reflected in caged resin jewellery and the sleek construction of spoked spiral pumps or patent wedge cuissards.
“On the occasion of my second-ever Mugler show, I’d like to take the opportunity to congratulate Manfred Thierry Mugler on the opening of the retrospective exhibition this week at Musée des Beaux Arts in Montreal. Celebrating the past and present of Mugler as a duality of nostalgia and progress is truly important to me, and this exhibition pays to testament to Mugler as a beacon of culture, diversity, and innovation.”
— Casey Cadwallader, creative director of Mugler