In a hothouse of winter hedonism, Peter Pilotto and Christopher De Vos explore the antique riches of Persia via secessionist Vienna. Tapestries, blown glass and Biedermaier become noble orals that bleed and melt into cascades and curves. The marbled palette of frosted pastels and faded jewels washes from coral, caramel, chartreuse and peach to petrol and midnight blue.
The mood is decadent and soigné, as design and décor is transposed onto textural outerwear in brushed mohair jacquards and graphic ombré dresses in hammered satin. Kaftan and kimono shapes accent a soft shoulder, and deep v-necklines tie with a demure bow.
Shawl collared tailoring in piped crepe and quilted silk are cinched with tasseled belts that loop through the waist, and engineered knit dresses dissolve into stripes and ribbons. A stained-glass effect is suffused throughout in patchworks of tufted cashmere or teddy shearling and dresses paneled in gauzy sorbet silk. Prismatic sequins and giant cabochon buttons lift the season’s opulent hand even further into the third dimension.
In collaboration with Marco Panconesi, double hoops sparkle with Swarovski crystal, and resin petals clasp the earlobe or wrist.