For Spring 2015 Sacaiʼs Chitose Abe riffs on a theme of uniform, inverting and subverting the familiar. Working with authentic silhouettes, cutting and splicing them into unexpected juxtapositions, with technical fabric innovations that allude to a couture-like world, staying true to the handwriting thatʼs been at the heart of Sacai since the beginning.
A military jacket is ʻinsertedʼ into the soft femininity of a tulle blouse, playing with the construction to create a new structured silhouette. A utilitarian khaki skirt bursts into a fan of chiffon pleats. The stripe insignia on a sleeve is reinvented in grosgrain ribbon. Navy chiffon inserts reveal lingerie detail underpinnings. A flight jacket is reinterpreted with a uniform button detailing.
Structured guipure lace is inserted into uniform silhouettes to form new three dimensional shapes, bringing a modern elegance to the idea of surplus. A classic blackwatch check is overlaid with stitching to create a new iteration of lace. Cotton drill is laser cut and over printed for a futuristic take on broderie anglaise.
Lacing inspired by utility dressing weaves itʼs way throughout, most prominent on pumped up open front surplus boots. Ambush x Sacai jewellery combines the high shine gold against coloured enamel.