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SALVATORE FERRAGAMO SPRING SUMMER 2020 COLLECTION – MILAN FASHION WEEK

Salvatore Ferragamo Fashion Show SS 2020 Milan
Salvatore Ferragamo Fashion Show SS 2020

 

Family–the glue that binds us together– and the house traditions of craft and artisanship form the twin foundations of a Salvatore Ferragamo collection that is light, bright and designed for joyful living in the 2020’s.

Paul Andrew explains: “It started with a photo on my mother’s mantelpiece of my brother and I on summer holiday in Italy when we were kids in the 1980s. We are wearing clashing Bermuda prints and smiles. I wanted to bring that feeling of fun and sun-drenched innocence into a modern context with a collection that is physically very light and knowingly bourgeois but which also has tangible depth, substance and care in its construction.”

The house icon Vara shoe, designed by Fiamma Ferragamo, daughter of house-founder Salvatore, in 1979 is lovingly reinvented as the Viva: mono-colour in a sophisticated spectrum of tones, the famous grosgrain bow is enlarged and expressed in leather – as is the original shoe’s hardware accessory – on a pump that comes either cinched in the back or with a solidly crafted upper.

New prints featuring Ammannati’s 16th Century Fountain of Neptune in Florence – recently restored thanks to funding from the Ferragamo family – play against oversized tulip prints on backless short dungarees, scarf-caps, long easy silk devore dresses, men’s shirting and swimwear.

Bubble skirts, cinched-ankle trousers, racerback tailored waistcoats and wide-legged dungarees are all affectionate Italian-flavoured 80s revivals, often expressed in leather and presented in a colour story designed to echo the tradition of Murano glassmaking. 3D printed jewellery in clear resin is shot through with sinuous twist of colour. Trenches and dungarees are cut open at the back to let the skin breathe: leather fronted trousers and shirts are backed in cotton to conjure a striking contrast.

Artisanal achievements include a Raschel knit dress and top striped in fringed ribbons of crepe de chine, and a hand crocheted tank-dress made in the hills above Florence. A light fringe-edged skirt of woven silk features a sash panel. Men’s tailoring is breezily split-seamed.

The new Ferragamo triple pocket expandable handbag comes in leather-lined linen canvas, hand woven leather mesh, ostrich and waxed calfskin and is presented in a new shoulder slung size.

Paul Andrew says: “Precious but never heavy, these are clothes, shoes and bags to cherish far beyond a single season for many summers to come. They are built for long languid days of sun, salt, sand and ocean. I hope that for those who own them, in the years to come they will be a little like that photo on my mother’s mantelpiece: a well-worn reminder of happy times.”

 

SS 2020 Salvatore Ferragamo Fashion Show
Model Fashion Show Salvatore Ferragamo
SS 2020 Fashion Show Salvatore Ferragamo
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Wed, September 25 2019 » Fashion Blog

SALVATORE FERRAGAMO SPRING SUMMER 2020 MEN’S COLLECTION – PITTI IMMAGINE UOMO

Salvatore Ferragamo Fashion Show SS 2020 Florence
Salvatore Ferragamo Fashion Show SS 2020

 

HOMECOMING

In the first men’s collection under the creative direction of Paul Andrew, Florence comes alive with the energy of a multicultural, multigenerational vision for the Ferragamo man. The city’s profound artistic, intellectual and economic traditions, the neighboring mills, factories and artisans, the famed Fountain of Neptune recently restored by Ferragamo — all serve as the rich ingredients of a new aesthetic direction, the style code for a new era. At once gloriously ancient and stunningly modern, Florence is the fire in the eye of Ferragamo, a place with which it is and shall always be synonymous.

Traditional menswear codes encounter more youthful notions of style in this collection, such that a lightweight technical parka takes the place of a classic blazer, the five-pocket jean is flared and in leather, the trouser is full throughout the leg and long, and the tailored jacket is rendered as utilitarian sportswear. Masculinity is communicated with a freedom no longer constrained by inflexible gender norms.

Colour, raw material and innovative craft hold information and convey culture in Paul Andrew’s Ferragamo. A broad palette of earth tones and natural shades is illuminated with saturated moments of candy pink, luminous green and deep night. Nappa leather bonded with cotton jersey, technical linen gabardine, ripstop cotton nylon, wool mohair, deerskin and sueded calfskin comprise an essential catalog of researched fabrics and skins across ready-to-wear and leather goods.

Inspired by archival shoe designs and local Tuscan artisans, intricate weaving techniques and raffia embroideries appear in passages of womenswear, connecting the men’s universe with the women’s, affirming the fundamental role of craftsmanship as the origin and beating heart of the house.

The marriage of high-craft and high-tech, a signature concept in Andrew‘s vision for Ferragamo, is articulated here in a split-platform espadrille, an interchangeable laced suede sandal-boot inspired by Salvatore’s 1951 ‘Kimo’ style, and a leather and rubber sneaker conceived with bench-made savoir faire. Bags and small leather goods project the luxury of impeccable skins and unadorned utility.

Envisioned by Paul Andrew, the Ferragamo man has lived and loved, won and lost, and has the wisdom and dimension that comes only with experience. His identity can be celebrated on the podium, but it does not rely upon showcase to exist. Indeed, he is uninterested in being discovered – he has already found himself.

 

SS 2020 Salvatore Ferragamo Fashion Show
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Fri, June 14 2019 » Fashion Blog

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