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Andrea Pompilio © Copyright 2014

He’s a rebel, the son of bourgeois parents, looking to make his mark on the world. Into their wardrobe he goes, ready to change up the elegant Italian tailoring and designer labels inside. He converts the classic shapes into a lineup that’s more his style.

Bold accents from his punk world contort their dress codes. He puts an oversized eyelet, like a stretched ear lobe piercing and brands it onto sartorial pieces, using it to perforate shirts and trench coats. He applies studs allover shirt collars.

He considers the monogrammed shirt, the status symbol of the Italian bourgeois man, and does his own version, putting macro chenille letters, as found on college jackets, onto T-shirts.

He dresses by merging the clashing style and attitudes of two generations in layers with sandals like those he’d wear to the pool. The detail-rich look creates Andrea Pompilio Men’s Spring Summer 2015 collection.

Layered and constructed with differing lengths, the silhouette has movement in profile. Poplin shirt hems are trimmed with a plisse skirt of fabric, like a punk’s kilt. Sweatshirts are layered on top, some embellished with three-dimensional tonal burnt and hammered paillettes.

A pair of large front pleats on the pants gives extra volume to their carrot form, with an elongated tab that closes at the hip; while drawstring baggy shorts with a back pocket are classic street wear.

A narrow shouldered single or double-breasted jacket cut from crisp cotton or linen is a graphic final piece. The jacket closes with a strip of fabric across one side of the waist, a design detail taken from an old military uniform.

A palette of nudes soften the layers; tones of flesh, sand and beige are worn together or mixed with pastel yellow, pop yellow, sky blue, robin’s egg blue, Bordeaux and cherry.

A contrasting colored fabric strip runs over the shoulders and down the tops of the sleeves of a trench. Appearing like an aura, the stripe outlines the profile of the coat in traditional technical textile or an ultra dry-handed taut Japanese cotton.

Tailoring is worn with accessories designed to debase its formality. Ribbed socks cut off at the toes are paired with leather sandals with serrated thick rubber soles. Pliable leather totes rolled at the top resemble classic shopping bags.

Sporty outerwear shows cool indifference. A boxy K-way with scuba style zippers features a large eyelet on its hood, and a jacket is trimmed with rubberized hook and eye closures.

The collection’s irreverent mood is captured in sunglasses that look like two disparate models cut in half and molded together, with oversized lenses and a fine wire bridge.


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Sat, September 13 2014 » Fashion Blog

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