The collection’s inspiration began with voodoo symbolism, leading to a focus on its art, its expression and the artist as an individual. Referencing photographs of artists such as Basquiat and their natural expression of style, the look this season is inspired by this creative spirit, wearing even the most precious clothing in a non-precious way.
With its DNA of unconventional fashion, the brand draws on the artist as an outsider who sees things from a different angle and thinks differently – bringing this same attitude to dressing. Sensitive yet carefree, this is someone who follows their own rules, just like HUGO.
Many pieces in the collection itself serve as a canvas. Artistic prints feature on delicate men’s mesh T-shirts and women’s sheer hand-painted silk organza dresses, contrasted with chunky paint-splattered sneakers and throw-on workwear jackets.
In shape and tailoring, the collection draws inspiration from the first HUGO collection, in 1993. Silhouettes are easy and loose with ankle-length, body-skimming slip dresses, oversize outerwear and relaxed trousers, while suit designs are seen through a new lens with stripped-back constructions and exaggerated proportions.
Elsewhere, the balance of tailoring is completely reworked. Suit jackets and shirts are designed to fall forward and drape off the body, turning traditional cuts and fits on their head. A number of pieces are created to be unisex – take a soft-cut pajama suit, an oversize tailored jacket or belted overalls.
For Spring/Summer 2018, HUGO plays with accessories. Men’s bags are blown up to giant size and sneakers feature thick, chunky soles. Conversely, women’s bags are scaled down to miniature proportions, while ultra-long earrings, or a string of pearls worn along the length of a finger, add a playful touch.
The collection’s colors are taken directly from the painter’s studio: neutral tones of white, beige and khaki are splashed with a palette of brights, including blues, yellow and signature HUGO red.