In a romantic ode to the sea, the Vionnet collection for Spring/Summer 2017 celebrates a feminine wanderlust from coastal tide pools to the ocean depths.
Channeling the heroines of Homer’s Odyssey towards a fresh, nautical optimism, a rhapsody of lightness emerges as the silhouette sways in languid motion. Echoes of aquatic flora and fauna abound in the featherweight textiles and ebullient palette that metamorphose into fanning, sculpted silhouettes imbued with the inherent dynamism of Vionnet’s bias cut.
Delicately fluent with crépon chiffon, georgette, silk tulle and encrusted with geometrical lace, floor-skimming gowns are crafted in tiers of plissé or stitched in panels of parachute silk like billowing sails. Rope bodices and belts mirror traditional sailor’s knots, creating intricate linear constructions that control meticulous draping.
Elsewhere a shivering abundance of textures invokes the mysterious romance of an underwater world, from floating dresses swathed in pale fringe and bubble-printed chiffon crépon to white cady tops cut to expose a rainbow strata of layered silk.
Even double-breasted blazers and trimmed trousers behold an innate fluidity: tailored long and lean in shades of ivory and pale blue they bear bold statements of anti-digital introspection embroidered or printed behind curtains of fringe. Collaged across poplin day dresses and wide palazzo trousers, a bird’s eye view beach scene nods to a lucid dream state of summer escape.
The Vionnet ‘Mosaic’ handbag with interchangeable rabat returns as a giant shopper in deep olive calfskin, and the ‘Maddé clutch is worn belted at the waist. Black or silver rope gladiator sandals are crafted in embossed and metallic leathers with a touch of watersnake.
Explore the world on the www. Cross continents and cultures.
VIONNET for Fall Winter 2011-12 takes a trip between the digital and the real; between polar magnetism and languid, exotic souvenirs; between fundamental art movements and a hint of primitivism. The final destination: femininity stimulated by a constant desire.
The trip VIONNET’s Creative Director, Rodolfo Paglialunga, set out on started with a geometric design discovered on the Internet: an abstract knot visually and conceptually ended up symbolizing the collection; a metaphor for a fusion of references that converge, but also as an isolated, physical gesture appearing on fluid fabrics and structured garments. The collection seems to have been born from a spark in open space resulting in these symbolic knots.
Like a matrix, the knot multiplies in skirts and tops becoming an unexpected texture of gros-grain in combinations of orange – navy, mauve – red and violet – black. In dresses, the multiplication goes infinite in firey hues of beige, mauve, orange and red bursting into a giant flower printed on stretch satin and radzimir; an organic element propelled digitally by an invasion of prints on chiffon and organza. These transform into a grouping of floral corsages in an organza dress.
The knot turns into a rosette. Multi-coloured elastic belts create an unexpectedly sporty and graphic line when placed on the voluptuous volumes of a coat, jacket or dress. A conceptual, yet functional, imagination becomes fundamental with free-wheeling references of the real and virtual worlds; memories and fantasies.
Silks, fluid or crisp, exalting the body’s silhouette with playful transparent and appliquéd pleats; all the while, fabrics garnished or quilted with solid geometrics appear like protective combat gear for heroines playing in a video game.
Proportions are continually adjusted as on a coat’s pagoda sleeve and in jackets where a giant revere unveils a precious and delicate underside of quilted pink, pale or sky blue satin. Playing with an ambiguous structures like mixing red or white wool / silk with dashing applications of red or black fox; spontaneous and wildly extravagant.
3-D fringe, multi-coloured sequins, laminated lace, patchworks of Mongolian wool, “kidassia” lambskin and mink: a game of addition and substraction in the recomposition of materials becomes almost alchemic manipulating wisely and instinctively fabrics, textures, lengths and volumes into a homogeny of winning contrasts.
A seductive palette of sky blue, orchid, sand, copper, iris, fluorescent orange, powder pink, coral, vanilla, hydrangea, malachite, prune and night blue. Fabrics are light, sinuous or rigid in crepe chiffon, silk gazar, taffetas, organza and radzimir embellished or quilted. Lace and tulles add balance the compact mixes of silk and wool.