A like Asia, because the Andrea Incontri collection focuses its gaze on this centuries-old crossroads of diverse peoples and cultures. Places, arts and styles rooted in an ancient past yet constantly evolving, with their eye on the future.
A like accessories. The main framework of the collection. Bags and footwear form this season’s nucleus around which the ready-to-wear clothes take shape and come to life.
A like archetypes, because accessories point the way to a return to the origins: here classic models are reinterpreted with an even more contemporary twist.
Bags are multiple, just as their uses are multiple. From shoulder bags to flat, geometric envelopes and backpacks to clutches, these accessories are the essential solution to the requirements of everyday life: versatility, lightness, practicality.
Strictly black natural or grained buffalo skin forms the outer shell of a “surprise” container whose unlined, ultra-light interior conceals little pockets and tiny, extractable bags.
Like the bags, footwear embodies the essence of this collection. Here a meticulous attention to detail, a juxtaposition of different materials, a mixture of styles and variety of shapes – sneakers, derbies, low and regular boots – are parts of a broader, global vision with the accent on quality workmanship and fine Italian manufacturing.
Materials and manufacturing are exclusively Italian, from waxing and brushing horse skin to hand-sewing leather bottom stocks and applying studs to the original pointed loafers that pay homage to the traditional Norwegian shoe.
International, Informal, Infinitelypractical. These adjectives describe the ready-to-wear and the new style permeating the clothes for autumn/winter 2016.
Starting with outerwear. Basic, simple, timeless, easy to wear. And although classic/universal styles inspired the models, the result is ultra contemporary and innovative.
The bomber is made of a double fabric of technical nylon and loden woollen cloth, with an ultra-light eco-down lining, the same used for the denim jackets. The parka can be made entirely of nylon or of total-black nappa. The fulled-wool jacket has leather details, as does the multicolour jacquard carpet jacket evocative of upholstery fabric.
Leather inlays are also seen on the field jacket with eight pockets: pockets everywhere, big ones, small ones and a side one for an iPod.
The shirt recurs throughout the collection: white cotton, printed or tie-and-dye, or a polo version made of technical textile with a knitted-fabric collar. For women, the shirt drops to ankle length, turning into a dress showered with tiny roses that are embroidered or jacquard or printed on a technical base. Roses also appear on the women’s parka and on the light tulle tops.
Materials: traditional textures like knitted cotton, wool worked in various ways, denim and leather are mixed and matched with nylon and technical fibres.
Colours: black dominates a palette that includes cool shades of blue and grey and the warmer, earthy tones of military green, aubergine and russet, plus rather more delicate notes of beige and sand.
Music is an integral part of the show, a veritable show-in-a-show. I’m Not a Blonde, the Milanese duo of multi-instrumentalists and composers Chiara “Oakland” Castello and Camilla Matley, play electro-pop music with varied influences.
Their live performance starts with a destructuring of tracks, featuring a hypnotic repetition of the phrase AI LOVE YOU, to proceed, in the second part, with improvisation and the original versions of Todis and Peter Parker (https://imnotablonde.bandcamp.com/releases).
Infinite galaxies, iridescent constellations that speak of distant worlds, psychedelic visions and kaleidoscopic explosions. In a word: light.
Light which, as if liberated by a myriad of planets like luminous points in space, becomes pure energy that transforms into motion when transposed to fluid, fresh, lightweight fabrics; when it falls on garments, defining their contours in a constant equilibrium of contrasts. Maxi lengths that leave the ankle exposed thus alternate with ultra minis in a subtle play of nude and clothed, of sky and earth.
Natural elements emanate their own glow in the form of evanescent halos, and the luminosity draws new energy from the hydrangeas immersed in the aurora borealis, taking life in the form of applications of irisé and diamond-cut stones with a thousand facets, and in the flowers that expand and extend across all-over graphics with a post-modern, futuristic attitude.
The spare, essential forms are the shell of a precious and unexpected content: along the perimeter of the rigorous and geometric lines that dress a woman like folded and profiled hankies, there is color, substance.
Colors which, in a fluid explosion of vitality, constitute a unique and original palette. Starting with the names, evocative expressions like Pandora, topaz, star, neon, sunrise, light and deep, chosen to describe all the nuances, which range from midnight blue and violet to total black, red and gold.
And like the colors, the textures are combined, overlapped and juxtaposed to create a harmonious contrast. Satin and charmeuse for sensual dresses, ultralight printed viscose for knit twin sets, lurex insets and fil coupé fabrics with polka-dots or silver lamé.
The protagonists and leitmotiv of the collection: neoprene and lacquer, alternated and combined in cylindrical heels enlivened by zig-zag profiles and playful pop music motifs, in super flat sandals dressed in leather with the rhythm of convex portholes, laying bare the magic dot motif thereby created.
The push toward constant research and experimentation is confirmed and renewed in the XS and XXL Nova and Supernova bags and the bucket and backpack models Cassiopea and Elysium.
Bags that embody the themes and principles that inspired the collection, as evidenced in the innovative choice of materials like neoprene and lacquer, in the unique workmanship with a hyper-contemporary flair thanks to the use of foam fabrics, in the original, compact forms and proportions, and in the use of light that reflects and refracts through the rows of stones and meteorites of gold of the Venus bag, the purest expression of femininity.
A traveler with the soul of a photojournalist. Eclectic and inquisitive, a modern Marco Polo. Full of curiosity as he observes the world around him. Taking notes and drawing up images that can awaken the memory of a trip. This is the man of Andrea Incontri’s SS15 collection.
Blazers and new trench coats made in faded linen dèlavè, a blending of authenticity and tradition. Double breasted jackets, because the meaning of adventure means more than just to travel, forms embellished with the straps and bels of backpacks and totes.
The super colorful silk and cotton knitwear with contrast borders and piping. Disruptive elements such as a lively blocks of color in bright yellow, orange, creamy whites, and dessert tones.
Quick designs like sketches on paper reinvent the texture of masculine herringbone and checks. The agile, yet decisive strokes of a pen create the geometric mantras of t-shirts, pants and printed leather jackets while the soul of the fabric remains the canvas of the bags in which to print.
Backpacks and shoulder bags of oversized proportions. Flat envelopes that open like a reporter bag. The accessories along with the shoes, slip-ons and oxfords or a more gent- ler style of cross sandals and sleepers all in soft calf leathers, suede and nabuk.
The role of functionality resets and reinvents itself with pure aesthetics. Rules made to broken. Sharp, observant, and pensive, the Andrea Incontri woman is conquered by these elements of strength that collide also within her wardrobe. While asphalt roads, intersections and junctions serve as contemporary monuments.
This is the inspiration of the forms, materials and the geometry of the embroideries and prints. It is a new form of vanity that is born from a clear self awareness- like the urban charm of a flower that overcomes the hardness of concrete.
Rigorous lines and clean silhouettes for coats as well as cropped earth colored jackets in the finest of wools. Where pockets are no longer just containers but various decorative elements, just as in a three-dimensional trompe-l’oeil. The severity of it all is however, broken up by purely decoratively placed fur in vertical panels.
The mini jackets with back details of pleated loden, are meant to be worn with mock pleated skirts or oversized pants with fur cuffs. Steadfast fabrics like the grisaille of earth toned and moss colored masculine wools. Unexpected plastification techniques with geometric bands resemble familiar horizontal road signs.
Strong contrasting colors in knits, bring a new functionality to the ribbing of men’s socks, that become into the sleeves of a super feminine pull-over. Black asphalt is the theme of velvets, where prominent zips cut through overtly feminine dresses with linear applications taken from the deconstruction of a pocket. Fur flowers emerge like roadside dandelions.
The Circuit Bag is the handbag of the season. Carried on the shoulder, it has bordered edges in reptile and python leathers, a metal closure, and is designed in contrasting tones of duchesse satin.
Colors such as brick red, chemical green, and taillight orange. Two-tone sandals and stilettos with straps and trims revolve like roads that accompany the feet to another seductive dimension.
The sea and the keeper of the lighthouse, strong yet silent, peering out and controlling the illuminated horizon. Hidden by an architecture of colors and matter, where infinite waves leave their traces whilst bleaching out surfaces.
He observes life stories: those of sailors and commanders, crew workers and garments that are meticulously tailored and hand-made in Italy. Strong oceanic shades of color ranging from deep indigo, sky blue and navy. As well as, sand optic white combined whit carmine red, fluorescent orange and black.
Potente and documentative prints. Geometric archetypes slowly detatching from the lighthouse walls; images of waves transforming into one collective collage, techno-industrial effects in blue and white tones, with random pops of color.
Single and double-breasted jackets, parkas and shirts singed with drawstrings of raw cord. Bombers, bermudas, and super lightweight windproof tank tops. Effortless polo shirts without buttons along with panels asymmetrically mounted on precision fit bermuda-boxer shorts.
Micro-quilted denim and washed piquet stretch cottons. Two-tone striped seersucker paired with thin, pinstriped horizontal and vertical patterns. Crinkled nylons and jacquard fabrics inspired by classical neckties in which create a sophisticated yet dynamic lightweight effect. Knitwear of dense, ribbed cotton are reminiscent to that of a scuba divers suit.
The materials and colors return to the female form like sirens that have been retained on the shore of reality. Dressed similar to that of her male counterpart, the lighthouse keeper in denim graced with jeweled brooches, illustrations of impalpable anemones that gradually transform into an all over print or as delicately placed three dimensional petals, glistening on the fabric.
From the accessories emerge the Shark backpack. An unprecedented volume ranging form medium sized to maxi, in which the calfskin leather in this seasons colors are characterized by the double stitches of the tetrahedron and evoke the shape of the sharks fin. Coordinated with slip-on loafers and lace up sailing shoes with robust, contrasting white zig zag soles.
A well educated elegance, more than formal and almost compelled, graces this Andrea Incontri collection. Discretion, a stern mood yet modern and sensual is on top of the list for this eccentric lady apparently ordinary, yet extraordinary.
Incontri designs the beauty of well mannered and measured geastures, the importance of dressing well: lost traditions to help define contemporary femininity.
This project was born from fabrics, from the matter of clothes, to build up a clear image with precise lines and shapes. A long lean silhouette, essential small proportions, new tailored separates all make for a brand new concept of elegance.
Frottage inspired original prints create hints of sculptures and ancient coins on different textures, taking decoration to a whole new level.
Wool crépe, structured fabrics, tricot inspired embroideries on sheer organza: fabrics get a 3D quality.
The colour palette is deep: light blue, thick yellow, sweet pink, dark red, ivory, black and chestnut brown. Romantic little dresses with small collars, silk jacquard pieces where roses bloom, candid crisp shirts and warm soft long wintery coats.
A whole collection of accessories completes the look. Polished leather handbags with contrasting colour pockets, bidimentional sleek bags, evening clutches with dark crystals beaming gently.
Tall boots get things straight: the mood is well defined by sensual heels on feminine shoes that don’t let decoration take over the essence of shape and function. Evening mules, bon ton mary-jean shoes and the signature stilettoes come in solid colours: ink black, deep red, hot chocholate, sweet beige.