Modern. Urban. Workwear. Introducing the men’s Fall 2014 Calvin Klein Collection. Reinterpreting the most classic items of a man’s wardrobe, in thoughtful, luxurious styles constructed from elevated materials. Plays of proportion and layers on sharp, confident silhouettes add a refined appeal.
Sportswear and outerwear pieces in masculine proportions, whether form-fitting or oversized, are layered throughout for highly textural combinations. Richly weighted materials and skins – alpaca, brushed silk, embossed wool, double faced cashmere, and leather shearling – add depth and structure, while playing with volume.
The surface is always in focus with unexpected techniques like embossed cable patterns on sweaters, resin coated alpaca, highly glazed nylons, and chicly felted flannels. Technical and noble fabrics are mixed, seamed or pieced, bringing hard and soft, and matte and shine together on tops, jackets, and quilted pullovers.
Referencing more utilitarian workwear, bombers, overshirts and pullovers – in bonded or felted wool, cashmere or shearling – have been modernized into more sophisticated, urban versions of these classic silhouettes. The cognac shearling leather bomber jacket or a generously oversized parka with a removable macro mesh lining and thick, matte finish zippers add an industrial touch.
Pants are offered in two proportionate styles; as a loose two pleat style or a leaner, pencil pant. Graphic sweatshirts that reference the heritage of the house, employ iconic words from the vocabulary of the brand language. Timeless. The tuxedo, but with less formality. A peak lapel worn with a hidden placket shirt and utility boot.
A rich palette of tone on tone caramel, sable and cognac, as well as strokes of brigade green and thistle complement touches of grey mélange and black.
Accessories are industrial with luxurious finishings. The utility boot or oxford, with overall chunky proportions, is featured throughout in brigade green soft calf leather. Each pair features a wheeled double welt construction, box stitched toe with a stacked leather sole.
The pocketed backpack is cleanly finished with matte black studs and industrial zippers, echoing the ready to wear hardware. It is smartly harnessed to a small, leather pouch with a hand-painted edge, as well as to a soft calf leather key fob with an oversized gunmetal utility clip.
Mon, March 24 2014 » Fashion Blog » No Comments
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Thu, March 13 2014 » Fashion Blog » No Comments
Ennio Capasa, designer:
Feeling low, feeling a hero, wishing for a change. This is today’s state of mind.
Coming out from the excess of the previous decade, we are searching for meaningful values in an era of contradictions, as David Bowie did between 1977 and 1979. He moved to Berlin where he transformed and worked on three incredible albums: Low, Heroes, and Lodger. He inspired me for this collection as he did many times in my career. Knowing that “we can be heroes for ever and ever”!
LOW AND HEROES
Fabric: Couture double cloth, eco fur, felt. Optical jacquard, pinstripped mohair, duchess satin and silk.
Colors: Off white, light gray melange, glass bottle green, burgundy, deep purple, blue, black.
Outerwear: Tailored and innovative, jacket with plastron, laser cut and sewn lapels, long coats and car coats, zippered shearling, leather biker in French plongè.
Knitwear: Mohair turtleneck, double cashmere, inlaid alpaca.
Trousers: Skinny, loosely flared, fitted biker.
Shoes and bags: Calfskin or mouflon messenger bag with perforated strap, shopping bag with zipper, supple calfskin handbag. Urban cowboy ankle boots with studded straps.
Accessories: Sunglasses in shiny or matte metal also in a mirrored lense version, printed silk scarf, bicolor belt with metallic studs and eyelets.
Wed, March 12 2014 » Fashion Blog » No Comments
Mon, March 10 2014 » Fashion Blog » No Comments
GEOMETRY OF STYLE
Prowling the runway is an elegant and damned seducer out of a film noir.
Cloaks and overcoats thrown over the shoulders envelop the Ermanno Scervino Man, disclosing new geometrical proposals that meld the rigour of impeccably tailored creations with the eccentricity of a man who thinks outside the box.
As the designer himself puts it:
“The Ermanno Scervino man doesn’t follow fashion, he studies it. He knows how to appreciate the story of hands and ideas that every garment narrates, a culture that makes him a trendsetter without undue formality or extravagance.”
The motifs of the male wardrobe are reinterpreted, proposing a style that showcases new geometries combined with each other in a harmonious whole.
Micro and macro all-over chequered patterns sketch out the silhouettes of overcoats, jackets, blazers, slim-fit pants, scarves and ties.
Houndstooth, contrast stripes, Prince of Wales, herringbone and bird’s eye patterns on wool and boiled wool fabrics and on felted knit fabrics worked unlined or two-tone bonded, also adorning maxi sweaters in alpaca and mohair.
The volumes of the outerwear are oversize, with the down jacket concealed beneath the parka in wool cloth, which becomes technical when bonded with fleece or comes out into the open embellished with fur.
For the evening, suits are introduced in unusual velvet combinations and chalk-stripes in felted knit.
The accessories follow the motifs of the collection. Footwear features the high-laced Derby with heavy-duty sole.
Colours paint out night shades: black, greys, midnight blue, at times lit up by hints of optical white, plaster, sky and cornflower blue.
Thu, March 6 2014 » Fashion Blog » No Comments
I had a father, I am a father. My father, like me, was Sardinian from Alghero, an outpost of Sardinia right in front of Spain. He used to have a fabric store, fabrics meant for every occasion. Occasions when it was important not to look but give respect.
Dresses for parties, for engagements and weddings. Baptisms and confirmations. Funerals and processions. The store was in the center of the ancient part of Alghero, Via Roma 56.
In the long and deep workshop, the fabrics were carefully rolled on wooden shelves. For every person there was a fabric , just waiting for the right time to be chosen, to be sewn and take shape and life.
I’ve always poked around in my father’s shop, played with combinations of colors and materials, observed attentively the skirts and shawls of those silent and determined women who came to Alghero from the country to buy good clothes for special occasions and for the work, stuff that would last for decades, wear- resistant and weatherproof.
I miss the boxes of handkerchiefs for men that were then embroidered with the initials for the lucky ones, perfectly ironed into four equal parts by patient wives. My father always put the handkerchief in his breast pocket, right next to the heart…
I have always rummaged among the collection of ties of my father, fascinated by the same form that was repeated in endless patterns no one equal to another. I think of my father always with a cigarette dangling from his lips, like an actor or a sailor.
I kept the pieces of fabric from the workshop of my father. I kept his precious meters of wood that were used to measure the length of the fabric purchased. The length of a meter as the notches carved into the wooden counter.
Four feet for a pair of trousers with turn-ups and ten more gifted for soft spots, for possible errors of little expert hands. One meter and 70 for a double-breasted jacket and a one and 80 for a coat…
When everything changed, when the fabrics have given space to tayloring, when thought and slowness have been replaced by everything- ready-immediately, rush, speed and urgency, the shop has been replaced by clothes boutique.
I have chosen some of the fabrics among my fabrics preserved as relics and works of art. I have reviewed and reworked them.
Blue and doubled cloths, polka dot corduroy, technical cotton, jacquard jersey necktie fabrics, tartan wool, micropiedepoule, felted gabardine, double jersey, multiflower printed cotton drill, neoprene, chevron wool combined with melange jersey, necktie printed micro-canvas wool, canvas microcashemere print wool, liberty printed poplin, Oxford.
Sweaters with necktie printed jacquard, English stitiches with saylor stripes, Ireland tufted stitches, panels punched with men’s fabrics and fur. Traditional colors of blue and gray, cord and aviation. Aubergine, oil.
Volumes: oversized pea- coat, carrot pants, jogging with drawstring. Sailor‘s coats, jacket with quilted sleeves. Reversible jackets, traditional vests and cocoon sweaters.
Wed, March 5 2014 » Fashion Blog » No Comments
“I wanted to sprinkle a little magic dust throughout the clothes in this collection, highlighting the idea of sartorial daring and masculine confidence that is integral to my vision, bringing it a new level – says John Varvatos – While working with KISS on my new advertising campaign, I was taken by how much everybody, regardless of their age, loves them.
For me, it is the idea of the superhero, a man in disguise with incredible powers, that makes the KISS myth so enduring and appealing, and it’s exactly that mindset that I wanted to explore, adding a dash of fantasy to my work while keeping tailored finesse and elegance high on the agenda. The result is energetic and strong, for a confident man who dares.”
The collection is characterized by movements that create a revolving sense of surprise. The silhouette is slim and elegant. Jacquard silk tuxedo jackets are worn with stretch leather jeans; double breasted flannel suits sport heather silk lapels, for a new vision of the tuxedo. Craft is hidden from intruding gazes, like a precious quality: embroidery under the collar of a jacket, tonal jacquards on knitwear.
Innovative weaving and expert treatments give fabric a feather-like, animal quality on tailored coats. The shimmering quality of metal adds toughness and a shine: embossed silver calfskin is used on the blouson, or as an armor patch on zip-up jackets that draw a superhuman figure; silver sleeves contrast the cream body of a motorbike jacket.
Silver toggle closures punctuate the outerwear pieces as visual marks. A fluid coat made of washed calfskin and wool has a certain severity, while cut-out fabric feathers swarm on the shoulders of the slim coat, making it ready for the stage. This succession of contrasts finally settles on the winter whites of double breasted coats, cutaway suits and shearling coats with a refined and martial allure.
The color palette is nightly and shimmering, with sudden surprises. Black, charcoal, silver, grey, either matte or metallic, give way to heather and light grey and finally open up to creamy white. Fabrics are masculine, with a tactile quality: brushed wools, flannel, washed calfskin, feather-effect weaves, silk and cashmere yarns.
Accessories include massive boots with thick soles, brushed leather boots with a shimmering effect, black lace-ups edged in white. Portfolio bags sport silver toggle closures, while oversized totes are painstakingly crafted. Modified top hats and sterling silver jewels punctuate the looks.
Tue, March 4 2014 » Fashion Blog » No Comments
Sun, February 23 2014 » Fashion Blog » No Comments
Dsquared² © Copyright 2014
#madlock Dsquared2 Men’s FW 2014
He’s a bad boy and it’s time to pay his dues. On the inside, confusion ruled by discipline with a glimpse into insanity. It’s a thug’s life, be tough, stay on the straight and narrow until parole.
Through the mad eyes of this bad boy, Dsquared2 takes inspiration for its fall winter 2014 collection from the unique world of a correctional institute. The unconventional influence lends motifs, colors and attire of life behind bars, via the uniforms of the inmates and those who patronize them: prison guards, psychiatrists, priests and lawyers.
The style story that unfolds begins with a simple cotton tunic and pants – mandatory clothes of someone being committed. Intense prison orange – the hue that makes escape difficult — quilted nylon teamed with worsted wool jackets fitted with zippers that converts into a new “pieces”.
Dsquared2’s DNA, mastery in denim and leather, are key to the hard knock life looks. Shades of indigo and black denim are given bleached out, destroyed and ripped treatments, cut into a jumpsuit, or straightjacket-style jackets, some trimmed with buckles, and paired with curved baggy jeans.
On the inside, clothes are a size too big. Taking cue from this look, the silhouette is bigger, but reinforced with structure through heavy masculine fabrics. Double-faced felted wools make sleek unlined patch pocket coats. Jean jackets are bonded with felted wool. Raw cut black and white long leather jackets take on a rounded fullness with spongy jersey bonded interiors.
Leather and denim are patchwork accents on classic wool suiting, in sleeves, front panels and waistbands. Rough boy denim is mixed with elegant pieces, a brushed wool teddy bear tobacco car coat, another long coat in graphic panels of Bordeaux, white and black silk and wool, and cashmere knits.
Rigid shapes crafted from black and distressed gray leather, the doctors style bags are matched with thick black squared eyeglasses of the institution’s psychoanalysts. Ankle boots are heavy duty style signatures of the inmates and their guards. With rounded toes in black, ochre and prison yellow leather and layered leather or rubber soles. Knitted short tuque hats add a tough guy attitude.
Mon, February 17 2014 » Fashion Blog » No Comments