Geometry and dynamism. Clarity and rhythm. The Salvatore Ferragamo A/W 15-16 collection by Massimiliano Giornetti revolves around an idea of unaligned rigour.
The overall simplicity of lines is stirred by controlled asymmetries, brightened by the material tactility of the surfaces, the juxtapositions of textures and densities; multiplied by graphic elements, underlined by contrasts.
The search for haute craftsmanship highlights one of the leading traits of Ferragamo aesthetics, the expression of manual dexterity alongside inventiveness and intuition, rigorous method and experimental freedom.
The silhouette is defined and vertical, with high waistlines. The clean and affirmative shapes splinter and move, crossed by diagonal lines cutting and structuring the silhouette.
Overlapping wraparounds, clean cut necks, and essential sheaths create a simultaneous succession of themes and variations. Athletic stripes run along tight-knit jerseys.
Or become pleats on tweed skirts, dematerialized by the weightless chiffon intarsia that only glimmer when stirred. Contrasting stripes mark hemlines.
Small, asymmetric cloaks and clean-cut long tabards convey a quest for extreme simplification, accentuated and contradicted by playful, contrasting interiors. Resin buttons with concentric circumferences, both functional and decorative, punctuate the figure.
The definition of surfaces is also geometrical and structural: a patchwork of mink intarsia or textured embroidery for lean coats; coloured marquetry creates rhythmical abstractions on chiffon gowns.
The palette is concentrated and captivating, full of harmonious contrasts: black, deep green, brown, touches of yellow, ivory, red, fuchsia. Materials are particular and inviting: wool crêpe, double cashmere, stretch jersey.
The idea of multiple materials and precise design stands out in the rigorous yet eccentric accessories. The sandals with sculpted heels are realised with combinations of crocodile, python, and suede.
Shoulder bags with rounded flaps pair mink with matte or shiny leather. Little cross-body bags designed in fur accompany striped bucket bags that reveal flashes of contrasting lining.
Knotted bracelets in metal and mink and belts in twisted origami seal the search for a blurred and whimsical accuracy.
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