Y/PROJECT BRINGS A RENEWED SENSE OF ELEGANCE AND DRAMA
La Maison de la Chimie was the setting of Y/PROJECT’s AW19 FEMME collection, presented on Thursday, February 28th. The classic XVIIIth century architecture of this hôtel particulier mixed with its authentic Art Déco design features mirrors Martens’ eclectic historical and aesthetic references that are trickling through the collection.
Glenn Martens creates a renewed sense of evening elegance, sensuality and drama, executed with the craft and wit Y/PROJECT is renowned for. Inspirations run from the Middle Ages to the 70s, bringing in an incredibly rich variety of fabrics, textures, colors and prints. The blending of corduroy, iridescent velvet, linen, faux-leather and fur, pearls, rhinestones, embroidery and Renaissance floral prints gives an extra bohemian accent to this prolific collection.
The opening look set the tone this new season: a skin-tight dress made of transparent latex strips creating a liquid effect, revealing a fierce, confident woman.
True to Y/PROJECT’s constructionist ethos, deconstructed pieces remain the brand’s main signature: panel, pop up, doubling features continue to punctuate the collection. Panelled shoulders are adapted to a variety of pieces throughout the collection: oversized cardigans, tweed coats with faux-fur details, silk shirt dresses and elegant sweater dresses. The trompe l’oeil hot pants are re-imagined in a tulle stirrup legging version.
The superposition of printed overlays, first explored during SS19 and continued for the AW19 HOMME collection, is taken further this season with tulle wrapping added to knit dresses, polo shirts and tops.
One of the show highlights this season was the surprise appearance of Dutch-Iranian singer Sevdaliza who captivated the audience in a Renaissance faux-leather and faux-fur pleated dress.
Accessories perfectly channel this season’s more dramatic take on fashion, with jewelry at the forefront. Oyster pearl earrings and multi-hoop necklaces, introduced for AW19 HOMME, lights up the runway with rhinestone and pearl embellishments for the womens collection. Erotic sculpture jewelry inject Y/PROJECT’ irony into the collection, with “explicit” bracelets, earrings and necklaces.
The oversize thigh-high heeled boots, now integral to the brand identity, are proposed in a wide ankle version, just like the waders that stole the show at Pitti in January. Lace up sandals brings extra sexiness to the show. A new shoe form, patent leather pointy mules appear to have been sliced open, are have also been revealed.
The best-selling accordion bags from the SS19 collection are now developed in new mini and oversized versions, colorways and floral prints. The collection’s undisputable elegance is accentuated by a new trapezium-shaped bag with chrome-plated details.
In a last ironic nod to traditional French couture, ever the historical enthusiast Glenn Martens completes the show with a dramatic Tudor-inspired wedding dress.
IMAGE CREDITS – RUNWAY: © 2019 Giovanni Giannoni
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