“I wanted to experiment with the definition of garments. What would happen if, when you described a pair of jeans, you were actually talking about a blouson? It was the beginning of a new set of archetypes, around which we built a wardrobe that plays with the idea of misinterpretation.” – Jonny Johansson, Creative Director of Acne Studios.
A collection of purposeful misinterpretations, leading to a liberated mode of dressing. Key garments are cut and constructed as if they are something else. Natural fabrics appear artificial. Layering blurs perception. Jeans are cut as a blouson, with a long fly as fastening, authentic pocket construction and belt loops at the waist.
A neon yellow suit is actually linen, the natural fibres making the intense dye luminescent. It’s the same for the neon-dyed wool trim on a rib knit vest. The functional details of an M-1965 field jacket are cut as a city coat; also misinterpreted as a coat is a polo shirt, with polo collar and ribbed cuff.
A neon yellow vest is knitted like a bathroom loofah. Sweaters appear to have the texture of body scrub towels. The tradition of tapestry is turned into a hyper-reality with a digital image of the Stockholm archipelago, cut roughly and used as panels on tops. White waxed cotton trousers have a layer of neon mesh beneath, which glows through from the inside.
Tech jackets are tailored as tuxedos in feather light nylon. Waists are defined by drawstrings, the collar tech satin. Tailored trousers also come in super light nylon. Loafers are like sponges; sneakers combine a sleek racer shape with a chunkier front. Bags are woven like blankets, using the fabrics of the collection.
The artist Dawn Bendick has created new sculptures for the show in dichroic glass that play with colour and light. The glow of the works provided an inspiration for the collection itself.