A collection that captures the focal point of Acne Studios – experimentation and archetypes, combined and contrasted. “Acne Studios has always been a place of experimentation, on which we have built solid foundations. It made me think of a student at art school, using its traditions to push somewhere new,” says Jonny Johansson, creative director of Acne Studios.
What guides the eye and how we see has long fascinated artists and photographers, the way they use effects to suggest details, and what can or can’t be seen. This exploration of our visual field is at the heart of Acne Studios men’s for spring/summer 2020, as if the project of an art student. The resulting pieces, with details that appear and disappear, are worn as a student would put them together: with irreverence.
Every piece connects with the original spirit of Acne Studios – indeed, Acne stands for “Ambition to Create Novel Expressions”. This sense of experimentation is found in new fabric developments; inquisitive design; unexpected combinations and a playfulness with which the pieces are put together.
A transparent acetate coat has jacquard lining beneath, sometimes obscured, sometimes visible. Acetate lapels of a tailored jacket warp the light, while acetate ties cause a blur. A denim jacket in opaque wrinkled nylon has classic topstitch detailing only down the centre of the body, all details fading away to leave an open seam at the cuff.
Cotton nylon knit striped sweaters are a new fabric development with purposefully irregular pleating, as if long-stored then found. Woven coats and shorts have patches of yarn cut away to reveal the structure beneath. Shirts run throughout, from archetypal cuts to oversized granddad collar shirts with added functional pockets, and floral shirts that hang loose on the body.
Questions of visibility are everywhere: check pants are created from wide woven strips of fabric, revealing glimpses of flesh beneath. Buckles of coats are see-through casts, the memory of the original buckle left within them. The Manhattan sneaker evolves to a new lightweight performance style, with transparent sides and overdyed. Leather sandals are oversized, providing contrast.
Student satchels are trimmed with contrast colours, or turned into clutches and cross-body bags. Sunglasses have double lenses, as if a visual echo. Chain jewellery is created from pin heads, held by cable ties. Knitted bracelets and cuffs have threads that hang down trace over the hand.
Sun, June 23 2019 » Fashion Blog
Fri, February 1 2019 » Fashion Blog
“I wanted to imagine our own counter-cultures which then morph together, with their own ways of living and surviving” says Jonny Johansson, creative director of Acne Studios.
The collection explores counter-culture as a way of being. Outsiders from different fields – academics, anarchists, bohemians, off-grid pioneers – are gathered then mixed, as if to build a new community.
Their clothing takes on its own individuality and character. These men have a magpie attitude to style, a look that is both practical and romantic. The wardrobe brings together seemingly disparate elements that, together, makes fresh sense.
Jersey tops have purposefully imperfect ribbing, patched with images from the classic anatomical textbook Gray’s Anatomy. Chunky knit snoods have fringes so long they almost touch the floor.
Tweed coats are woven in wool and cotton to give crispness. Cowhide coats are left their natural shade in places, elsewhere dyed vivid brights.
Jacquard tops are woven in patterns like football kits from another era. An alternate football shirt pattern is printed on a bohemian hoodie and coat, made from wool woven with polyester.
Cashmere boucle cardigans have been washed, and are worn loose as an outer layer. Pants have fastenings like dungarees that can be worn folded open.
Tailoring in jersey cuts close to the body, with small flowers trapped in the see-through buttons. Other long silhouette suiting has Lycra for added stretch.
Ponchos are knitted as if from loose threads trapped in fabric, with fringing only on the front.
A sweater has loose yarns trapped under a layer of sheer pink nylon, as if all could be unravelled.
Hiking boots supercharged soles, while rubber industrial boots are perfect for surviving the elements. Multi-pocket body bags are extremes of functionality.
Brooches trap flowers in resin, as if pressed in a book. Spherical cutaway jewelry are as if the symbols of a new society.
Fri, February 1 2019 » Fashion Blog
“I wanted to experiment with the definition of garments. What would happen if, when you described a pair of jeans, you were actually talking about a blouson? It was the beginning of a new set of archetypes, around which we built a wardrobe that plays with the idea of misinterpretation.” – Jonny Johansson, Creative Director of Acne Studios.
A collection of purposeful misinterpretations, leading to a liberated mode of dressing. Key garments are cut and constructed as if they are something else. Natural fabrics appear artificial. Layering blurs perception. Jeans are cut as a blouson, with a long fly as fastening, authentic pocket construction and belt loops at the waist.
A neon yellow suit is actually linen, the natural fibres making the intense dye luminescent. It’s the same for the neon-dyed wool trim on a rib knit vest. The functional details of an M-1965 field jacket are cut as a city coat; also misinterpreted as a coat is a polo shirt, with polo collar and ribbed cuff.
A neon yellow vest is knitted like a bathroom loofah. Sweaters appear to have the texture of body scrub towels. The tradition of tapestry is turned into a hyper-reality with a digital image of the Stockholm archipelago, cut roughly and used as panels on tops. White waxed cotton trousers have a layer of neon mesh beneath, which glows through from the inside.
Tech jackets are tailored as tuxedos in feather light nylon. Waists are defined by drawstrings, the collar tech satin. Tailored trousers also come in super light nylon. Loafers are like sponges; sneakers combine a sleek racer shape with a chunkier front. Bags are woven like blankets, using the fabrics of the collection.
The artist Dawn Bendick has created new sculptures for the show in dichroic glass that play with colour and light. The glow of the works provided an inspiration for the collection itself.
Tue, July 10 2018 » Fashion Blog
“I wanted to make a collection about pure creativity, so we started by asking some kids to draw their idea of clothes. The naive shapes were enlightening when brought to life. It was a jumping off point for a fresh way of thinking about fashion.”
– Jonny Johansson, Creative Director
A collection of experiment and wearability in menswear, with a new eye on wardrobe staples. Throughout, vivid colours such as blues and reds sit alongside muted tones of camel and grey. Striped, loose knitted tops have extended sleeves and a large patch pocket at the hem. 2D square bodied sweaters are made from just two panels, following a child’s imagined idea of a knit.
Single breasted tailoring is pressed with new body, with creases placed away from the usual. Pants are cropped and slightly flared, the cut-out pockets with bonded hems. Wools are woven with synthetics to create textures like terrain. The fabrics are used on snap-fastening duffels, either full body, or as a panel across the shoulders of a camel duffel.
Knitwear is key to the collection, and a focus for experiments. A snap-fastened cardigan combines natural and synthetic yarns with an elastic hem. Sweaters with wavy stripes mix richness of yarns, adding pop to homespun stitches. Checked technical cotton is bonded onto shearling for a zip-up jacket, the zip pleasingly chunky. Shetland wool single breasted coats are fastened with rubberised black metallic circles.
An oversized yarn twill is used for a boxy take on the denim jacket. Shetland wool is used for a V-neck, while camel wool cloth is cut to make a crewneck sweater. Fine crewneck sweaters have been embroidered in fluffy yarn with childlike motifs: a star, a rocket, planets.
Leather lace-ups have oversized eyelets that continue around the ankle, while hold all-bags use the terrain pattern of the collection. Necklaces have been knitted from metallic yarn.
Wed, February 14 2018 » Fashion Blog
Wed, November 22 2017 » Fashion Blog
Fri, October 14 2016 » Fashion Blog
“It is interesting to me that even though we live in a digital age with a free flow of information, there are many countries who want to close their borders. I prefer to focus on openness and looking out into the world,” – Jonny Johansson, Creative Director
Loose, fluid and feminine combinations of prints and patterns, with many garments made from and inspired by flowing scarves and blankets. Two dimensional cutting creates pieces of free volume that come to life when placed on the body. Colours go from pales and greys to primary colours in the deepest indigo, mustard yellow and red.
A fine cashmere jumpsuit is made from a soft oatmeal check matched with a paisley, while a flowing top is created from layers like the edges of scarves. A simple half-belt denim jacket is the result of rich work: stonewashed, overdyed and then embroidered.
Trims of knit frame garments, while oversized jacquard knits are of idiosyncratic pattern, often with unfinished hems. Denim dungarees bring an air of workwear, and also connect to the origins in denim of Acne Studios.
Drop-shoulder knitted sweaters and sleeveless dresses are like North African blankets worn on the body, constructed with artisanal topstitching. Repeated prints are used in different scales and combinations: paisley; indienne; checks; stripes.
Byzantine slippers have a pointed toe, while wood print shoes have a built up curved sole like the arm of a chair. Moccasins are embellished with jewels, and heels come with intensely braided straps. Unstructured bags are in suede or leather laser cut with paisleys. Rounded glasses are of intentionally small frame.
Thu, October 13 2016 » Fashion Blog
Mon, June 22 2015 » Fashion Blog
Acne Studios © Copyright 2014
“I find youth’s relation to luxury striking and wanted to explore it. We brought what we discovered back to the Acne Studios universe and created an entire wardrobe for the social calendar – business, parties, travelling and leisure including swimwear. The colour palette is classic with acid accents. Fabrics include organza silk, satin, terrycloth and different treatments of leather.”
Jonny Johansson, Creative Director
Fri, October 10 2014 » Fashion Blog